How-To: Driftwood Benches

Found wood can be an amazing resource with limitless uses. There are many sources for found wood; a jetty or beach, the banks of a river or even a fallen barn. We used fir that had been previously milled, and was found and cross cut on a jetty in the San Francisco Bay. When selecting a found board make sure that it is truly discarded and that nobody has claim to it. Check that it is not impregnated with toxic substances such as tar, as this can pose a health hazard. Usually you can tell simply by smelling it. It is also important that the board has not suffered too much from rot or insect infestation. Rough wood has a tactile quality unmatched by pristine finishing and will compliment any garden setting. We used cherry for the support legs for contrast.

Drifwood Frame
There is no cutting list for this project, as the size depends on the boards you find. We started with a board that roughly measured 11/2" x 7" x 68". The stool pictured at right was constructed in a similar manner, but simply cut in half.

1. From your board you will cut three pieces. The most critical length is that of the bench sides, as this will determine the sitting height. Refer to the drawing on page 16 for dimensions. Our bench is 36" long. Cut a flat across the top inside face of each side with a dado head on the table saw. The dado is cut very shallow and the width corresponds to the thickness of your seat board. This provides a flat for joining and gluing. Cut similar flats across the underside of the seat board at its ends. These dadoes are as wide as the sides are thick.






2. Mark the 10° dovetail sockets on the underside of each end of the seat as dimensioned in the drawing on page 16. Cut out the socket with a hand saw and clean up with chisels and files. Transfer the dovetail socket to the top end of each side. Cut the dovetail pin a little bigger than you have marked. File these down until they fit snug in the sockets. Dry fit the entire driftwood frame and ensure that the joints fit snug and solidly against their flats. Glue and clamp the three frame members, clamp and check for square.

Support Legs
The bench has two auxilery legs which work as outriggers. These are connected to the bench seat with turned tennons.


3. The mortises which accept the support leg tenons are drilled and counterbored at a 15° angle. Make a 15° drilling guide on the drill press with a 3/4" bit for the tenon and a 11/4" bit for the counterbore.



4. Mark the mortise centers as located on the drawing at left. Drill the counterbores first then the through mortises. Clamp the drill guide in place over the mortise centers with the angles oriented outward, and drill.



5. Cut 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" x 20" cherry leg blanks. These are cut long to mount on the lathe. Turn the profiles as shown in pattern inserts. Sand the legs when mounted. Fit into the seat mortises and confirm the length. Glue in place and finish with weather resistant varinish.

How-To: Four Board Bench - American classic

The four board bench is an American classic. It has been made throughout history wherever people have gathered. This bench was developed using shaker originals as a model for the proportions, leg shape and stretcher profile. The journey in the bench is a combination of dadoes and wedged through tenons, used by a shaker community in Kentucy during the first half of the 19th centure. Many woods are appropriate for this bench, we chose this walnut for its sap wood sides and edge glued the stock so the sap wood strip ran down the approximated middle of the seat.


1. If you are making a panel to match the width in the cutting list for the seat (A) and legs (B), then choose your stock to make a strong relationship between the members. We organized the heart wood and sap wood, book matching could also make a strong relationship. If you are using 8-1/4" wide stock for the seat and legs, then proceed to step three.


2. If you are edge gluing the seat, apply glue to each interior face and fix them with alternating clamps separated by about 18". Once the glue has cured, run the panels through a planer or level with hand plane.

3. Cut the seat, legs and strecher (C) to the dimensions given in the cutting list. The legs are positioned 5 1/4" from the ends of the stretcher and are secured with lapped dado joints, as located in the drawing on page 35. Cut the 3/4" x 1"deep dadoes into the stretcher using a right angle miter fence on the table saw. The dadoes in the stretcher join with corresponding 3/4" x 2 7/8"deep dadoes in the center of each leg, mark and cut these dadoes. Each leg secures the seat with two tenons that are 5/8" x 3/4" x 11/4" wide. Layout the tenons on each of the legs 7/8" from each leg side and clear the waste using a right angled miter fence on the table saw.


4. Transfer the profiles from the pattern inserts to the seat, stretcher and legs. Cut the profiles just shy of the lines with a band saw. The seat is secured by each leg with a 1/4" x 3/4" dado cut across the width of the underside of the seat 7 1/4" from each end. Check to see that they match the dadoes in the stretcher and cut the seat dadoes with a right angle miter fence on the table saw.


5. The leg tenons are secured in their mortises with wedges pressed into their slots. See step seven for information about the wedges. Cut the wedged shaped slots centered along the length of the leg tenons with a back saw. Layout the the 3/4" x 11/4" wide mortises in the seat by marking up from the dado edges on the seat sides with a tri- square. Mark the mortises in the other direction by using the leg as a guide.


6. Score the perimeter of each mortise on the seat top with a utility knife and drill out the waste. Cut the remaining waste from each mortise with a paring chisel and mallet. Smooth the bandsawn curves with a block plane, spoke shave, rasp or a sharp chisel used as a scraper.

7. Cut the wedges (D) to the dimensions given in the cutting list. Shape a shallow angle into each wedge. Its width should be slightly larger than the width of the leg tenon. When the wedges are fully engaged with the notches in the leg tenons, they should press the tenons into compression between the walls of the seat mortises.


8. Dry fit the assembly and check to see that all joints are true. Disassemble and apply glue to the joints. Reassemble the seat, legs and stretcher and tap the wedges into place. Once the glue has cured, cut the wedges flush with the bench top. Sand the bench through 220-grit sand paper and finish with oil and wax.

Cutting List			Qty
A	Seat	3/4" x 8 1/4" x 40"	1
B	Stretcher	3/4" x 3" x 34"	1
C	Legs	3/4" x 8 1/4" x 15 3/8"	2
D	Wedges	1/4" x 1 5/16" x 1"	4

How-To: No Sew Ottoman

Project 101

Learn upholstery 101 quick & easy. You'll need minimal experience (almost none!) Also a piece of Old furniture that has simple lines (we chose an ottomnan.) Enough fabric to cover the piece. Some talismans to enhance the ottoman. And a "staple gun."

Supplies:

1. Ottoman (cushion needs to in good condition.)
2. Fabric (Measure across and down in both directions. Fabric should be at least 6 inches wider & longer than ottoman total width and length.
3. Staple gun & staples
4. Corded tassel

Measure the ottoman in both directions.

Clean prior to covering to remove odors

Instructions:
Step One

1. Start with a cleaned upholstered ottoman. (Note: ours even had an attached 4 inch cushion.)
2. Lay fabric onto ground.
3. Place ottoman upside down onto wrongside of fabric.

Step Two

1. Find center of each side of ottoman bottom. Mark bottom of ottoman center with a small marker line.
2. Find center of each side of fabric. Staple each center to match each center of ottoman. Staple. Pull tight and continue stapling remaining centers.
3. Next staple each "short edge of ottoman only.

Staple short width sides only.

Pleat Corners & Pull tight Step Three

1. Pleat excess fabric.
2. Pull fabric toward center of long side of ottoman. Then pull the fabric back to edge to make straight pleat. Pull tight. Staple to hold in place.
3. Repeat for each corner.
4. Staple long sides of ottoman.

Step Four

1. Once all sides are stapled down, then, flip ottoman right side up.
2. All sides should be nice and flat.

Finishing Up

We added a corded tassel to the edge of our ottoman. The embellishment helps hide the ridges of the four inch cushion. We also added knots to give it a detail to the sides. Pull tassel & cording tightly when securing to your ottoman.

How-To Crackle: The Art of Weathering

Instructions:
Clean your object using mild soap & water (if non porous only). If wood or plaster, then clean lightly with damp tack cloth to pick up dust, etc.


If choosing an item to "refaux" then, sand gently to allow underlying paint to become "slightly rough." This rough texture allows the new coats of paint to stick to the old coats.

Base Coats
We suggest using an all purpose primer to base coat the vase. Allow to dry for 24 hours.

Base coats seal in "new woods." They also create a "light" one tone layer to paint over. It also results in using fewer coats of "paint."

Crackling (the art of weathering) is as easy to do as painting 123. There are a variety of crackling techniques. You can find a variety of items to crackle. We chose a vase.


Crackling on woods with "country colors" can give your object an aged weathered look (like grandma's lost table.) Or crackle a piece of faux art to create an elegant vase like ours here.

You will need the following tools:

• Paint brushes
• Light colored paint
• Dark colored paint
• Crackle medium
• Clear polyurethane finish
• Sand Paper (extra fine)
• Gold Metallic paints (acrylic paints)

Painting Object

We used an "Apple Green" on our sample vase. We applyed one coat of latex paint on vase. Allowed to dry overnight.

TIP: Paint in 60 to 80 degree weather. When painting in too hot or too cold temperatures, paint drying times and characteristics of drying changes.

Applying Crackle Medium

There were a lot of "tricks" to applying the medium and the varied results on this particular vase.

1. We experimented with the crackle medium to achieve the fine crackle.
2. Large crackles were a result of "thickly applied" crackle medium.
3. Thinned with water "crackle medium" and thin application resulted in smaller cracks.
4. The vase is approximately 26 inches tall. Due to the height and shape, the crackling started to "SLIDE!" OOOPS! It was too late to do anything with it at this point. SO slide it did! We fixed this later.
5. Paint crackle in ONE direction only. If you paint across and then up & down, your cracks will go ACROSS & UP & DOWN.
6. Once you have applied crackle medium and allowed to dry: Paint top coat-Do NOT re-touch painted areas. Paint one THIN LAYER OF TOP COAT paint only in one direction.

We chose the "thinned crackle application method." Applied the crackle medium per the manufacturers instructions. Allowed to dry for 4 hours.

Applying Paint
Apply top coat. Use a THIN layer of paint only. Paint in one direction. Do not "back into painted areas." Use long strokes.

The paint will begin to crackle immediately. DO NOT TOUCH THE AREAS that you have painted on. OR OOOPS will happen!

Allow to dry for 24 to 48 hours. Crackle medium has been reactivated when applying top coat and will take longer to dry.

FINISHING TOUCHES

With a paint sponge, dip sponge into gold paint. DRY BRUSH off excess gold paint. Lightly paint in same direction as crackle highlights of gold.

Allow to dry.

OPTION: If you find large cracks and what to thin the cracks: Dip sponge into light paint. "Highlight large cracks with paint." This will hide the large cracks. DO NOT do this to all the cracks.

Apply Top Coat
Paint one to two coats of varnish onto vase following manufacturers instructions. After first coat, lightly sand varnish. Dust off with tack cloth. Paint second coat.

Learn to Dry Florals

Preserving flowers is a wonderful way to recycle natural materials and enjoy them year round by arranging them in vases, creating wreaths, candle holders and other home decorations. Flowers are not always available year round. Preserving them allows you to enjoy a larger range of flowers in & out of season.

There is a large variety of flowers that preserve well. Well known flowers worthy of preserving that you may have in your yard. Included are daffodils, carnations, delphinium, geranium, hibiscus, honeysuckle, hollyhock or jasmine. Country gardens often offer lavender, iris, marigolds, tulips, sunflowers, roses, violets and forget-me-nots!
Don't forget to try preserving herbs like chamomile, fennel, lemon leaves, pepper mint, rosemary, sage or thyme for a fragrant decorative arrangement. Herbs can also be ground in a blender or coffee grinder for use as a cooking seasoning.

Instructions:
To dry flowers or leaves smashed flat for use in bookmarks or suncatcher crafts, seperate the flower from the stem and put it in between the pages of a large phone book. Be sure and mark the pages so you can find the flowers. Pansies are beautiful dried in this manner but it does not work for all flowers.

A more advanced way to air-dry flowers preserves the stems as well. Start with fresh flowers that are picked during the driest part of the day when the sun has dried the dew. Strip the leaves off the flowers and tie them in small bunches grouping the same kind of flowers together. Choose a dark, part of the house like a closet or attic to hang the flowers. You can also insert the flowers into a paper bag to stimulate a dark room. Turn the flowers upside down and hang securely from a hook or nail.

There is not a set guide on how long drying will take. The determining factors are the temperature, humidity and air flow. You can check the flowers every other day and remove them when the petal feel slightly stiff with a paper consistency. If you will not be using your flowers right away, store them away from direct sunlight and damp conditions.

Flowers can also be air-dried by laying them on a cookie sheet that has been covered with newspaper or paper towels. You could also dry them upright if you have a wide lattice screen the flower stems can poke through. This method will keep the flowers upright and open. Prop the screen or cookie sheet under a bed and any area that has low light and dry warm air.

Silica gel is a sandy compound that automatically removes moisture from the flowers. It is available in craft or flower stores and can be re-used over and over. You will need a box of gel and a plastic storage box or recycled ice cream bucket with a airtight lid. Fill your container a little over half way and gently put your fresh cut flowers in the gel - petal side up. Sprinkle more gel on each flower and even in between the petals. You can dry several flowers at once in the same container. Once it has been sealed for several days you can check the flowers. Thick stemmed flowers will take more time of course but generally flowers are preserved in four to five days.

It can be tricky to remove the flowers without breaking the tiny brittle petals. Using a slotted spoon or spatula can help remove the flowers and filter the gel out at the same time. Fore best results, store flowers in a airtight container with a little of the gel left in the bottom. If you do have petals break off you can glue them back on with a paint brush.

Practice makes perfect so don't give up when trying this craft for the first time. Flowers are worth preserving but can take time to be successful.

Make Your Own Magnetic Frame

Instructions:

Displaying and enjoying pictures of your family and friends is important & should be displayed in a location of your home where they'll be seen often. For many families, that would be the kitchen. But quite often, our photo's get hastily stuck on the fridge with a small magnet from our local realtor or even with tape that discolors the fridge!

Make a magnetic fridge frame as a wonderful gift giving idea or a it creates a unique way to display a collage of several pictures without cluttering up your fridge. Magnetic frames can be a quick fix for organizing your office file cabinet too!

Supplies:

• Scissors or Utility Knife
• Ruler
• Oval, Square or Circle Template
• .20 mil or heavier piece of flexible magnetic sheeting

Step One
Choose the photo's that you wish to display. Determine the shape of the individual "holes" that will frame and highlight your photo best.

Step Two
Arrange photos in a layout. This will determine the "size" of the magnetic framme. Measure your "size" of frame.

Step Three
Use paper to draw a "sketch" or "diagram" of your frame. Include "holes". Use your templates to draw frame holes. Allow adequate spacing between frame openings.

Lay drawing over magnet sheet. Cut following diagram.

Step Four
Use the right weight of magnetic sheeting. You can purchase this at office supply stores or by the foot from signage printing companies. Manufacturers recommend .20 mil weight for refrigerator and home use. .30 mil for car signage.

You can find magnetic sheeting readily available in a white laminate top. Also in basic solid colors. It is easily cut with a utility knife or scissors.

Step Five
You can paint or embellish the frame. Signage manufacturers recommend using a plastic based paint that dries fairly quickly. Basic enamel or craft paints require a long drying time. OR decorate your frame using wallpaper or contact paper. Put it on your precut frame as a complete piece. Smooth wrinkles. Use utility knife to trim out the holes from the backside.

The strength of your magnet frame can generally hold your photos without the use of tape or glue. However, adding new photo's to your display will be easier if you use a small amount of acid free tape to secure in place.

Knitting: The Amazing Multi-colored Shawl

You can create this shawl using contrasting or coordinating yarn. Choose a variety of colors and textures for the most effective combinations.

Materials:

• approximately 750 yards of worsted weight yarn including mohair, rayon ribbon, wool, chenille and novelty yarns
• 1 set US 10 circular needles, at least 24" long

gauge: 10st = 4" in garter stitch

Get Going:
Note: This shawl is worked from the center out. You may cast on with one yarn, and knit until you run out, or knit several rows in sequence. Since this is a loosly knit item, new colors are best added at the beginning of the row.

Cast on 3 stitches.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: K1, yo, K1, yo, K1
Row 3: knit
Row 4: K1, Yo, K1, yo, K1, yo K1
Row 5: knit
Row 6: K1, yo, k3, yo, K1, yo, K3, yo, K1
Row 7: Knit
Row 8: K1, yo, K5, yo, K1, yo, K5, yo, K1
Continue knitting all odd (wrong side) rows.
Continue increasing all even (right side) rows by two stitches on either side of the center stitch until desired length.

You may wish to add your favorite lace edging, a decorative knit border, or simply bind off loosely, and fringe the edges. You may wish to double this pattern, and sew the edges together, leaving an opening for your neck to form a poncho.