Antique And Other Decorating Ideas

How-To: Driftwood Benches

2008-08-01T22:06:00.000-07:00

Found wood can be an amazing resource with limitless uses. There are many sources for found wood; a jetty or beach, the banks of a river or even a fallen barn. We used fir that had been previously milled, and was found and cross cut on a jetty in the San Francisco Bay. When selecting a found board make sure that it is truly discarded and that nobody has claim to it. Check that it is not impregnated with toxic substances such as tar, as this can pose a health hazard. Usually you can tell simply by smelling it. It is also important that the board has not suffered too much from rot or insect infestation. Rough wood has a tactile quality unmatched by pristine finishing and will compliment any garden setting. We used cherry for the support legs for contrast.

Drifwood Frame
There is no cutting list for this project, as the size depends on the boards you find. We started with a board that roughly measured 11/2" x 7" x 68". The stool pictured at right was constructed in a similar manner, but simply cut in half.

1. From your board you will cut three pieces. The most critical length is that of the bench sides, as this will determine the sitting height. Refer to the drawing on page 16 for dimensions. Our bench is 36" long. Cut a flat across the top inside face of each side with a dado head on the table saw. The dado is cut very shallow and the width corresponds to the thickness of your seat board. This provides a flat for joining and gluing. Cut similar flats across the underside of the seat board at its ends. These dadoes are as wide as the sides are thick.

2. Mark the 10° dovetail sockets on the underside of each end of the seat as dimensioned in the drawing on page 16. Cut out the socket with a hand saw and clean up with chisels and files. Transfer the dovetail socket to the top end of each side. Cut the dovetail pin a little bigger than you have marked. File these down until they fit snug in the sockets. Dry fit the entire driftwood frame and ensure that the joints fit snug and solidly against their flats. Glue and clamp the three frame members, clamp and check for square.

Support Legs
The bench has two auxilery legs which work as outriggers. These are connected to the bench seat with turned tennons.

3. The mortises which accept the support leg tenons are drilled and counterbored at a 15° angle. Make a 15° drilling guide on the drill press with a 3/4" bit for the tenon and a 11/4" bit for the counterbore.

4. Mark the mortise centers as located on the drawing at left. Drill the counterbores first then the through mortises. Clamp the drill guide in place over the mortise centers with the angles oriented outward, and drill.

5. Cut 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" x 20" cherry leg blanks. These are cut long to mount on the lathe. Turn the profiles as shown in pattern inserts. Sand the legs when mounted. Fit into the seat mortises and confirm the length. Glue in place and finish with weather resistant varinish.

How-To: Four Board Bench - American classic

2008-08-01T21:58:00.000-07:00

The four board bench is an American classic. It has been made throughout history wherever people have gathered. This bench was developed using shaker originals as a model for the proportions, leg shape and stretcher profile. The journey in the bench is a combination of dadoes and wedged through tenons, used by a shaker community in Kentucy during the first half of the 19th centure. Many woods are appropriate for this bench, we chose this walnut for its sap wood sides and edge glued the stock so the sap wood strip ran down the approximated middle of the seat.

1. If you are making a panel to match the width in the cutting list for the seat (A) and legs (B), then choose your stock to make a strong relationship between the members. We organized the heart wood and sap wood, book matching could also make a strong relationship. If you are using 8-1/4" wide stock for the seat and legs, then proceed to step three.

2. If you are edge gluing the seat, apply glue to each interior face and fix them with alternating clamps separated by about 18". Once the glue has cured, run the panels through a planer or level with hand plane.

3. Cut the seat, legs and strecher (C) to the dimensions given in the cutting list. The legs are positioned 5 1/4" from the ends of the stretcher and are secured with lapped dado joints, as located in the drawing on page 35. Cut the 3/4" x 1"deep dadoes into the stretcher using a right angle miter fence on the table saw. The dadoes in the stretcher join with corresponding 3/4" x 2 7/8"deep dadoes in the center of each leg, mark and cut these dadoes. Each leg secures the seat with two tenons that are 5/8" x 3/4" x 11/4" wide. Layout the tenons on each of the legs 7/8" from each leg side and clear the waste using a right angled miter fence on the table saw.

4. Transfer the profiles from the pattern inserts to the seat, stretcher and legs. Cut the profiles just shy of the lines with a band saw. The seat is secured by each leg with a 1/4" x 3/4" dado cut across the width of the underside of the seat 7 1/4" from each end. Check to see that they match the dadoes in the stretcher and cut the seat dadoes with a right angle miter fence on the table saw.

5. The leg tenons are secured in their mortises with wedges pressed into their slots. See step seven for information about the wedges. Cut the wedged shaped slots centered along the length of the leg tenons with a back saw. Layout the the 3/4" x 11/4" wide mortises in the seat by marking up from the dado edges on the seat sides with a tri- square. Mark the mortises in the other direction by using the leg as a guide.

6. Score the perimeter of each mortise on the seat top with a utility knife and drill out the waste. Cut the remaining waste from each mortise with a paring chisel and mallet. Smooth the bandsawn curves with a block plane, spoke shave, rasp or a sharp chisel used as a scraper.

7. Cut the wedges (D) to the dimensions given in the cutting list. Shape a shallow angle into each wedge. Its width should be slightly larger than the width of the leg tenon. When the wedges are fully engaged with the notches in the leg tenons, they should press the tenons into compression between the walls of the seat mortises.

8. Dry fit the assembly and check to see that all joints are true. Disassemble and apply glue to the joints. Reassemble the seat, legs and stretcher and tap the wedges into place. Once the glue has cured, cut the wedges flush with the bench top. Sand the bench through 220-grit sand paper and finish with oil and wax.

Cutting List			Qty
A	Seat	3/4" x 8 1/4" x 40"	1
B	Stretcher	3/4" x 3" x 34"	1
C	Legs	3/4" x 8 1/4" x 15 3/8"	2
D	Wedges	1/4" x 1 5/16" x 1"	4

How-To: No Sew Ottoman

2008-06-29T16:20:00.000-07:00

Project 101

Learn upholstery 101 quick & easy. You'll need minimal experience (almost none!) Also a piece of Old furniture that has simple lines (we chose an ottomnan.) Enough fabric to cover the piece. Some talismans to enhance the ottoman. And a "staple gun."

Supplies:

Ottoman (cushion needs to in good condition.)
Fabric (Measure across and down in both directions. Fabric should be at least 6 inches wider & longer than ottoman total width and length.
Staple gun & staples
Corded tassel

Measure the ottoman in both directions.

Clean prior to covering to remove odors

Instructions:
Step One

Start with a cleaned upholstered ottoman. (Note: ours even had an attached 4 inch cushion.)
Lay fabric onto ground.
Place ottoman upside down onto wrongside of fabric.

Step Two

Find center of each side of ottoman bottom. Mark bottom of ottoman center with a small marker line.
Find center of each side of fabric. Staple each center to match each center of ottoman. Staple. Pull tight and continue stapling remaining centers.
Next staple each "short edge of ottoman only.

Staple short width sides only.

Pleat Corners & Pull tight Step Three

Pleat excess fabric.
Pull fabric toward center of long side of ottoman. Then pull the fabric back to edge to make straight pleat. Pull tight. Staple to hold in place.
Repeat for each corner.
Staple long sides of ottoman.

Step Four

Once all sides are stapled down, then, flip ottoman right side up.
All sides should be nice and flat.

Finishing Up

We added a corded tassel to the edge of our ottoman. The embellishment helps hide the ridges of the four inch cushion. We also added knots to give it a detail to the sides. Pull tassel & cording tightly when securing to your ottoman.

How-To Crackle: The Art of Weathering

2008-06-29T15:48:00.000-07:00

Instructions:
Clean your object using mild soap & water (if non porous only). If wood or plaster, then clean lightly with damp tack cloth to pick up dust, etc.

If choosing an item to "refaux" then, sand gently to allow underlying paint to become "slightly rough." This rough texture allows the new coats of paint to stick to the old coats.

Base Coats
We suggest using an all purpose primer to base coat the vase. Allow to dry for 24 hours.

Base coats seal in "new woods." They also create a "light" one tone layer to paint over. It also results in using fewer coats of "paint."

Crackling (the art of weathering) is as easy to do as painting 123. There are a variety of crackling techniques. You can find a variety of items to crackle. We chose a vase.

Crackling on woods with "country colors" can give your object an aged weathered look (like grandma's lost table.) Or crackle a piece of faux art to create an elegant vase like ours here.

You will need the following tools:

Paint brushes
Light colored paint
Dark colored paint
Crackle medium
Clear polyurethane finish
Sand Paper (extra fine)
Gold Metallic paints (acrylic paints)

Painting Object

We used an "Apple Green" on our sample vase. We applyed one coat of latex paint on vase. Allowed to dry overnight.

TIP: Paint in 60 to 80 degree weather. When painting in too hot or too cold temperatures, paint drying times and characteristics of drying changes.

Applying Crackle Medium

There were a lot of "tricks" to applying the medium and the varied results on this particular vase.

We experimented with the crackle medium to achieve the fine crackle.
Large crackles were a result of "thickly applied" crackle medium.
Thinned with water "crackle medium" and thin application resulted in smaller cracks.
The vase is approximately 26 inches tall. Due to the height and shape, the crackling started to "SLIDE!" OOOPS! It was too late to do anything with it at this point. SO slide it did! We fixed this later.
Paint crackle in ONE direction only. If you paint across and then up & down, your cracks will go ACROSS & UP & DOWN.
Once you have applied crackle medium and allowed to dry: Paint top coat-Do NOT re-touch painted areas. Paint one THIN LAYER OF TOP COAT paint only in one direction.

We chose the "thinned crackle application method." Applied the crackle medium per the manufacturers instructions. Allowed to dry for 4 hours.

Applying Paint
Apply top coat. Use a THIN layer of paint only. Paint in one direction. Do not "back into painted areas." Use long strokes.

The paint will begin to crackle immediately. DO NOT TOUCH THE AREAS that you have painted on. OR OOOPS will happen!

Allow to dry for 24 to 48 hours. Crackle medium has been reactivated when applying top coat and will take longer to dry.

FINISHING TOUCHES

With a paint sponge, dip sponge into gold paint. DRY BRUSH off excess gold paint. Lightly paint in same direction as crackle highlights of gold.

Allow to dry.

OPTION: If you find large cracks and what to thin the cracks: Dip sponge into light paint. "Highlight large cracks with paint." This will hide the large cracks. DO NOT do this to all the cracks.

Apply Top Coat
Paint one to two coats of varnish onto vase following manufacturers instructions. After first coat, lightly sand varnish. Dust off with tack cloth. Paint second coat.

Learn to Dry Florals

2008-06-29T15:41:00.000-07:00

Preserving flowers is a wonderful way to recycle natural materials and enjoy them year round by arranging them in vases, creating wreaths, candle holders and other home decorations. Flowers are not always available year round. Preserving them allows you to enjoy a larger range of flowers in & out of season.

There is a large variety of flowers that preserve well. Well known flowers worthy of preserving that you may have in your yard. Included are daffodils, carnations, delphinium, geranium, hibiscus, honeysuckle, hollyhock or jasmine. Country gardens often offer lavender, iris, marigolds, tulips, sunflowers, roses, violets and forget-me-nots!
Don't forget to try preserving herbs like chamomile, fennel, lemon leaves, pepper mint, rosemary, sage or thyme for a fragrant decorative arrangement. Herbs can also be ground in a blender or coffee grinder for use as a cooking seasoning.

Instructions:
To dry flowers or leaves smashed flat for use in bookmarks or suncatcher crafts, seperate the flower from the stem and put it in between the pages of a large phone book. Be sure and mark the pages so you can find the flowers. Pansies are beautiful dried in this manner but it does not work for all flowers.

A more advanced way to air-dry flowers preserves the stems as well. Start with fresh flowers that are picked during the driest part of the day when the sun has dried the dew. Strip the leaves off the flowers and tie them in small bunches grouping the same kind of flowers together. Choose a dark, part of the house like a closet or attic to hang the flowers. You can also insert the flowers into a paper bag to stimulate a dark room. Turn the flowers upside down and hang securely from a hook or nail.

There is not a set guide on how long drying will take. The determining factors are the temperature, humidity and air flow. You can check the flowers every other day and remove them when the petal feel slightly stiff with a paper consistency. If you will not be using your flowers right away, store them away from direct sunlight and damp conditions.

Flowers can also be air-dried by laying them on a cookie sheet that has been covered with newspaper or paper towels. You could also dry them upright if you have a wide lattice screen the flower stems can poke through. This method will keep the flowers upright and open. Prop the screen or cookie sheet under a bed and any area that has low light and dry warm air.

Silica gel is a sandy compound that automatically removes moisture from the flowers. It is available in craft or flower stores and can be re-used over and over. You will need a box of gel and a plastic storage box or recycled ice cream bucket with a airtight lid. Fill your container a little over half way and gently put your fresh cut flowers in the gel - petal side up. Sprinkle more gel on each flower and even in between the petals. You can dry several flowers at once in the same container. Once it has been sealed for several days you can check the flowers. Thick stemmed flowers will take more time of course but generally flowers are preserved in four to five days.

It can be tricky to remove the flowers without breaking the tiny brittle petals. Using a slotted spoon or spatula can help remove the flowers and filter the gel out at the same time. Fore best results, store flowers in a airtight container with a little of the gel left in the bottom. If you do have petals break off you can glue them back on with a paint brush.

Practice makes perfect so don't give up when trying this craft for the first time. Flowers are worth preserving but can take time to be successful.

Make Your Own Magnetic Frame

2008-06-29T15:40:00.000-07:00

Instructions:

Displaying and enjoying pictures of your family and friends is important & should be displayed in a location of your home where they'll be seen often. For many families, that would be the kitchen. But quite often, our photo's get hastily stuck on the fridge with a small magnet from our local realtor or even with tape that discolors the fridge!

Make a magnetic fridge frame as a wonderful gift giving idea or a it creates a unique way to display a collage of several pictures without cluttering up your fridge. Magnetic frames can be a quick fix for organizing your office file cabinet too!

Supplies:

Scissors or Utility Knife
Ruler
Oval, Square or Circle Template
.20 mil or heavier piece of flexible magnetic sheeting

Step One
Choose the photo's that you wish to display. Determine the shape of the individual "holes" that will frame and highlight your photo best.

Step Two
Arrange photos in a layout. This will determine the "size" of the magnetic framme. Measure your "size" of frame.

Step Three
Use paper to draw a "sketch" or "diagram" of your frame. Include "holes". Use your templates to draw frame holes. Allow adequate spacing between frame openings.

Lay drawing over magnet sheet. Cut following diagram.

Step Four
Use the right weight of magnetic sheeting. You can purchase this at office supply stores or by the foot from signage printing companies. Manufacturers recommend .20 mil weight for refrigerator and home use. .30 mil for car signage.

You can find magnetic sheeting readily available in a white laminate top. Also in basic solid colors. It is easily cut with a utility knife or scissors.

Step Five
You can paint or embellish the frame. Signage manufacturers recommend using a plastic based paint that dries fairly quickly. Basic enamel or craft paints require a long drying time. OR decorate your frame using wallpaper or contact paper. Put it on your precut frame as a complete piece. Smooth wrinkles. Use utility knife to trim out the holes from the backside.

The strength of your magnet frame can generally hold your photos without the use of tape or glue. However, adding new photo's to your display will be easier if you use a small amount of acid free tape to secure in place.

Knitting: The Amazing Multi-colored Shawl

2008-06-29T07:00:00.000-07:00

You can create this shawl using contrasting or coordinating yarn. Choose a variety of colors and textures for the most effective combinations.

Materials:

approximately 750 yards of worsted weight yarn including mohair, rayon ribbon, wool, chenille and novelty yarns
1 set US 10 circular needles, at least 24" long

gauge: 10st = 4" in garter stitch

Get Going:
Note: This shawl is worked from the center out. You may cast on with one yarn, and knit until you run out, or knit several rows in sequence. Since this is a loosly knit item, new colors are best added at the beginning of the row.

Cast on 3 stitches.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: K1, yo, K1, yo, K1
Row 3: knit
Row 4: K1, Yo, K1, yo, K1, yo K1
Row 5: knit
Row 6: K1, yo, k3, yo, K1, yo, K3, yo, K1
Row 7: Knit
Row 8: K1, yo, K5, yo, K1, yo, K5, yo, K1
Continue knitting all odd (wrong side) rows.
Continue increasing all even (right side) rows by two stitches on either side of the center stitch until desired length.

You may wish to add your favorite lace edging, a decorative knit border, or simply bind off loosely, and fringe the edges. You may wish to double this pattern, and sew the edges together, leaving an opening for your neck to form a poncho.

Knitting: Vine Lace Sock

2008-06-29T06:50:00.000-07:00

Delicate, lacy ankle socks will make a wonderful start to your Spring and Summer wardrobe. Great with open style shoes or sandals, these durable socks are a snap to knit. I used the newest member of Berroco's fine family of "wardrobing" yarns: Linette. This yarn is a blend of linen, nylon, viscose and acrylic. Creating a fabric with a lovely hand with a slight sheen, which is surprisingly machine washable.

Materials:

2 skeins Berroco's Linette (Acrylic, viscose, nylon, linen; 110yds/ 50g)
1 set US 7 double pointed needles
stitch marker, if desired
1 blunt end tapestry needle

Gauge: 5.25 sts = 1" in St.st.

Vine Lace Pattern:
Row 1: Knit all sts.
Row 2: * YO, K2, SSK, K2tog, K2, YO, K1* ;repeat from * to *
Row 3: Knit all sts.
Row 4: *K1,YO, K2, SSK, K2tog, K2, YO* ;repeat from * to *

Get Going:

Cast on 45 stitches over two needles held together. Remove one of the needles and distribute these stitches evenly between three needles.
Round 1 :Join stitches, taking care not to twist the round. Begin Vine Lace pattern as above by knitting all stitches for the first round. Repeat this pattern until sock leg measures 4" or desired length, ending with a row 4 of pattern.
Next round: Knit all stitches.
Set up for heel, by knitting 9 st, turn. Sl1, p8 and the first 9 st from the next needle. These 18 st will form the heel. Place the remaining stitches on the remaining 2 needles for future use.
Row 1: *Sl1, K1* repeat from *to*
Row 2: Sl1, P all remaining St.
Repeat these stitches for 2-1/2" ending with a K row.
Turn the heel as follows :
Sl1, P11, P2tog, P1,turn(without working the remaining stitches)
Sl1, K7, K2tog, K1, turn (without working the remaining stitches)
Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn (without working the remaining stitches)
Sl1, K9, K2tog, K1, turn (without working the remaining stitches)
Sl1, P10, P2tog You should have 12 st and a beautifully turned heel.

Rejoin the heel to the instep of the sock, as follows:
With needle 1, pick up 10 stitches knitwise along the side edge of the heel.
With needle 2, work vine lace pattern beginning on row 2 across the 27 st held in reserve before you began the heel, placing all 27 st on the second needle.
With needle 3, pick up 10 stitches knitwise along the remaining side edge of the heel. Continue using this needle to knit 6 of the 12 heel stitches. Place the remaining 6 heel stitches onto the first needle.
Work the heel gussets as follows:
Round 1: needle 1: k to last 3 st, K2tog, K1
needle 2: work vine lace pattern
needle 3: K1, SSK, K remaining St.
Round 2: needle1&3: k all St., needle 2: work vine lace pattern
Repeat these rounds until there are 45 st.total
(needles 1&3=9ea. needle 2=27st.)
Continue in round 2 until foot measures 2" smaller than desired foot length.
Begin toe decrease as follows:
First round: needle 1: K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1
needle 2:* K1, K2tog* repeat from * to *
needle 3: K1, SSK, K remaining sts
Round 1: K all St.
Round 2: needle 1: K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1
needle 2: K1, SSK, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1
needle 3: K1, SSK, K remaining sts
Repeat round 1 & 2 until 16 sts. remain, placing the bottom 8 st on one needle.
Weave the toe seam as follows:
Cut the yarn, leaving a 12" tail.
Thread this tail through a blunt needle, to stitch the toe closed. Hold the needles so that the top of the sock is facing up, and the threaded tail is to your right.
Step 1: Insert the needle through the first stitch on the back needle, like you would be knitting this stitch. Pull the yarn through, but leave the stitch on the knitting needle.
Step 2: Insert the threaded needle through the first stitch on the front knitting needle, as if you were knitting this stitch. Pull the yarn through, and let this stitch drop off the knitting needle.
Step 3: Insert the threaded needle through the next stitch on the top knitting needle, as if you were purling this stitch. Pull the yarn through, but leave the stitch on the knitting needle.
Step 4: Insert the threaded needle through the stitch you left on the bottom knitting needle (in step 1), as if you were purling this stitch, pull the yarn through , and let this stitch drop off the knitting needle.
Repeat these steps until you have dropped all of the stitches off the needles, and the toe has no seam!!

Make another sock if you insist on a matching pair!

Knitting: Triangle Hat

2008-06-29T06:44:00.000-07:00

Inspired by a technique printed in TKGA publication "Cast-On" this hat is quick to knit, and a great way to use up those odds and ends!

Materials:

1 skein of worsted weight yarn (or the equivalent of various yarn in coordinating or contrasting colors)
1 set of US size 8 needles
blunt end tapestry needle

Get Going:

Note: This technique is similar to entrelac, except that you are working with triangles. The size of the hat can be altered by changing the number of stitches involved in the triangle, or the weight of the yarn. This is definitely a "cast-on and try-it" sort of project!

CROWN
Cast on 21 stitches and create your first triangle as follows:

* Purl all stitches.
K1, SSK, Knit until 3 stitches remain, K2 tog, K1.
Repeat these rows until 5 stitches remain.
K1, (Sl1, K2tog, PSSO), K1 P3 Sl1, K2tog, PSSO *

You've created your first triangle! You should have one stitch remaining on your needle.
Now we'll add a triangle to the left of this triangle.

With right side facing up, pick up and knit 20 stitches along the left edge of the triangle.
Repeat the above triangle pattern from * to *.

Continue in this manner until you've made 6 triangles, forming a hexagon, with one opening from the center to the edge. (Pretty cool....!) This will form the crown of the hat.

Body

Now we will construct the brim, or body of the hat. You should have one stitch remaining on your needle.

With wrong side facing up (purl side), pick up and purl 20 stitches along left edge of triangle previously worked. Repeat the above triangle pattern from * to *.

With one stitch remaining on your needle, and right side facing up pick up and knit 20 stitches along right side of triangle previously worked. Repeat the above triangle pattern from * to *.

Continue creating triangles which form a strip, by alternating the above steps until 12 triangle have been created, forming the brim or body of the hat. Bind off the remaining stitch, leaving a long tail for finishing.

Finishing

Using the blunt-end tapestry needle and beginning with the tail, stitch the open ends of the triangles together to form the body of the hat.

Continue with the same tail, and stitch the body to the crown, matching triangle edges.

Continue with the tail, and stitch the center seam of the crown. Secure the tail end and pull to the inside of the hat, and trim.

Along the bottom edge of the hat body, pick up and knit 126 stitches (21 per triangle).

Make 4 rows of garter stitch, and bind off loosely. You could also finish the edge with I-cord, ribbing, moss stitch...use your imagination!

Quilting: Nine-Patch and Diagonal Cross

2008-06-29T06:35:00.000-07:00

This quilt is comprised of 37 reproduction fabrics from P&B Textiles Cocheco Print Works Collection, originally produced in Dover, New Hampshire in the 1880's. The collection was reproduced from samples archived at the American Textile History Museum. Royalties earned from the sale of the Cocheco Print Works Collection help support the American Textile History Museum.

Nine-patch and Diagonal Cross Quilt

Finished Quiltsize: 52" x 52"
Finished Block size: 6" square

Supply List
Quilt uses all 37 different fabrics from the Cocheco Print Works Collection

1/4 yard of each fabric from the collection
plus 1/4 yard for inner border
3-1/4 yards for backing
3/8 yard for binding
56" square batting

Nine-Patch

You will need 24 blocks. Cut 2-1/2" strips from a variety of light, medium and dark fabrics. Cut strips into 2-1/2" squares for blocks. For each block, you will need 4 squares of one pattern and 5 of another. Make some combinations with darker corners and some with lighter corners. The excess strips will be used in the pieced borders.

To construct the blocks, sew together 3 squares to form a strip. Make 3 strips with alternating squares. Press seams of top and bottom strip in one direction, and seams of the middle strip in the opposite direction. Sew strips together to form the block.

Diagonal Cross Block

You will need 25 blocks. For each block, cut one 6-1/2" square. Cut diagonally twice to form 4 triangles. Cut one 1" square for the center. Cut four 1" x 5-1/2" strips for the cross. Sew two strips to the center square to form one long strip. Press seams open. Set aside. Sew one triangle to either side of the remaining strips to form two larger triangles. Press seams open. Sew the long strip to the long side of one triangle. Sew the other triangle to the opposite side of the long strip to form a square. Press seams toward triangles. To square off corners, place a 90-degree angle on the block, lining up block sides with the edges of the ruler, trim.

Quilt Assembly
Sew blocks together, alternating one nine-patch with one diagonal cross block. The four corners of the quilt will be the diagonal cross block. Press seams of each row in alternating directions.

Inner Border
Cut two strips 1-1/2" x 42-1/2" and two strips 1-1/2" x 44-1/2". Sew the shorter strips to opposite sides of the quilt. Sew the longer strips to the remaining sides.

Pieced Borders
You will need two pieced borders. Take the leftover 2-1/2" strips and cut ends to 45-degree angles, all in the same direction. Sew together to form approximate lengths for quilt sides. Sew to edges of quilt, one side at a time. Note: Try to begin and end border strips that butt up to each other on adjacent sides with the same fabric. This way corners will "wrap around" with the same fabric, as shown in the picture. Repeat for the outer border.

Decorating: Sheer Tent

2008-06-29T06:25:00.000-07:00

This tent requires little effort, if you are using one of the sheers which already has a pre-finished weighted hem. Attach two loops of ribbon or string to hang the tent from the ceiling over a bed creating a romantic mosquito net.

Materials:

15 yards extra-wide, euro-hemmed sheer fabric
thread to match
3 yards ribbon to match
15 yards single shirring/gathering tape
plastic embroidery hoop

Get Going:

Side hems and closure: Finish the side edges of your sheer fabric in a double 3/4" hem. Cut the ribbon into six 18" pieces. Attach the ribbon to corresponding side hems, beginning approximately 20" from the bottom hem and spacing the ribbon approximately 20" apart.

The top hem: Apply the shirring tape to the wrong side of the top edge of the sheer (the unfinished selvedge), by stitching along the top and bottom edge of the tape. Pull the cord within the tape to gather the sheer. Place the top of the sheer in the embroidery hoop, with the wrong side facing out, adjust gathers and tighten the hoop to secure.

Flip the sheer fabric so that the right side cascades over the embroidery hoop, hiding the hoop from view. Attach the hoop over the top of your patio umbrella.

Decorating: Sheer Draperies

2008-06-29T06:15:00.000-07:00

A GUIDE TO EXTRA-WIDE SHEER FABRIC

Extra-wide sheer fabrics are those which exceed 54", and are intended to be used railroaded, in order to produce full-length seamless draperies on wide windows.

Do-it-yourself decorators are often confused about the concept of railroaded fabric. Typically, home decorating fabric is woven and printed so that the cut edges become the top and bottom of the finished product, and the selvedges become the side seams. Railroaded fabrics are woven and printed so that the cut edges become the side seams and the selvedges become the hem and heading of the drapery. Some of these fabrics will include a decorative border or a beaded weight or "Euro-hem" finish along the hemline.

Determine the style of drapery and the type of curtain rod you will be using prior to purchasing your
fabric.

Some issues to consider are:

If the draperies need to be drawn frequently for access through a door, or to a view, you should consider a traversing mechanism on your curtain rod. When the curtain is opened, where will the fabric be stacking, and in which direction? Do you wish for the curtain to clear an opening
completely? How much space do you have beyond the glass for the fabric to stack?

If you are using the sheer fabric for privacy or as a light filter, and may occasionally require access to the window, a decorative curtain rod with rings can be considered. This treatment usually requires multiple drapery panels, in order to properly support the curtain rod while allowing the rings to function smoothly over the decorative rod.

Standard utility curtain rods with rod pocket draperies can be used for top treatments or for treatments which are moved infrequently.

Use the chart below to determine the number of yards required for your project.

Width of area to be covered (include any extensions for stacking the draperies beyond the door or window)	EXAMPLE 72" slider + 6" ext. on each side = 84"
Add drapery rod returns	4" return per side =8"
Add drapery rod overlaps (if using a center draw)	3" overlaps per panel =6"
Multiply by amount of fullness desired (usually 3 times)	84" +8" +6" = 98" x 3 = 294"
Add side hem allowances	6" per panel =12" =306 total
Divide by 36" to determine yardage required	8-1/2 yards

Get Going:

Cut fabric for the drapery panels, including 3" side hems for each panel. Take care to ensure a straight edge by pulling a thread as a guide for cutting.

Make the side hems, by turning the side edges in a double 3/4" hem making certain the cut edge is flush with the side crease. Finish this hem by hand, or by machine using invisible thread and a blind hem stitch, using a slightly longer stitch than normal to avoid puckering.

Determine the finished length of the drapery panels. Allow a scant 1/2" clearance over sliding glass doors or floor-to-ceiling windows. Allow 4-6" clearance above baseboard heaters for safety. If a functional overdrapery is to be installed, make the underdrapery 1" shorter, allowing 1/2" top & bottom so the sheer will not show when the draperies are closed. Add 10-12" for a deep hem, if desired. Add allowance for casing or heading, depending on the curtain rod used (6-10" for a double pleated heading, 6" for a doubled utility rod pocket and heading). You may need to trim the fabric based on your determined cut length. Pull a thread or follow the pattern to ensure a straight and even cut.

Make the bottom hem (if there is no border or "euro-hem") by removing the bottom selvedge, turning up a deep double hem (usually 5-6") making certain the cut edge is flush with the bottom crease.
Finish this hem by hand, or by machine using invisible thread and a blind hem stitch, using a slightly longer stitch than normal to avoid puckering.

Make the heading according to the desired curtain rod being used. You will most likely add pleats for traversing rods and decorative rings. A rod pocket with a heading will be used for utility rods. Be sure to use a sharp needle and a slightly longer stitch on your machine to avoid puckering while stitching.

Note: These lovely sheers can be used for many other decorative purposes, such as one-piece swags, shower curtains, hourglass door panels, easy dining room chair slipcovers, and more!

Decorating: Beach Mat/ Drawstring Bag

2008-06-29T06:11:00.000-07:00

Beach Mat

Great for the beach, the park, or for indoor use. This mat turns into a drawstring "bag" with just a pull of the cords, for transporting toys in a jiffy.

Materials:

1-1/2 yard of canvas, denim, burlap, Sunbrella, textilene or other similar durable fabric.
Thread to match
1 package of 8 large brass grommets
6 yards nylon drawstring cord
5 yards nylon bias seam binding

Get Going:

Fold your fabric into quarters.
Using a pencil, or disappearing marking pen, and a 27 inch string, mark a quarter circle from the center folded corner.
Cut along the line to form a 54 inch circle, when the fabric is opened.
Apply the seam binding to the outer edge of the circle.
Apply the grommets along the outer edge of the fabric, evenly spaced.
Cut the drawstring cord in half, knotting one end of each piece.
Thread the free end of the cord through the grommets until you have gone through 4 grommets.
Knot the remaining end.
Repeat this process with the remaining cord.
You may wish to untie the knots, knotting to including both pieces of cord on opposite sides of the mat.
Fill with beach toys and hope for a sunny day!

Decorating: Flanged Lace Pillow

2008-06-29T06:04:00.000-07:00

Flanged Lace Pillow

A quick and easy way to add an elegant touch to your home for the holidays. Thanks to Mary Ellen for this fabulously simple idea!

Materials:

3/4 yard home decorating lace or sheer fabric
16" - 18" decorator pillow (solid colors work best)
Disappearing fabric marker

Get Going:

Cut your lace or sheer fabric 7" larger than the pillow you will cover.

Stitch the lace or sheer fabric , right sides together using a 1/2" seam. Be sure to leave a generous opening for turning and inserting the pillow (9-12").

Turn the pillow cover, and press.

Using the fabric marker, trace a stitching line 3" from each side, forming a square centered in the outer cover.

Carefully stitch along 3 sides of the square you have made in the above step.

Insert the pillow.

Carefully stitch the last side of the center square, taking care not to catch the pillow.

Finish the outer opening by machine stitching along the outer edge of the entire pillow, or whip stitch the opening by hand.

Optional trimmings: You may wish to add some fun trimmings to the center square, and pillow before you stitch the openings closed. Try wrapping the pillow in a metallic ribbon, painting the pillow with fabric paint, writing a favorite poem or holiday greeting on the pillow using fabric markers, adding sequins, ribbon roses or if using sheer fabric you could even sprinkle in a little glitter!

Knitting: Honeycomb Dishcloth

2008-06-28T21:34:00.000-07:00

Honeycomb Washcloth

designed by: Nancy in SC

Rating: Medium

Materials: Sugar and Cream MC, and CC (divided into 2 balls), Size 8 US Needles, Guage = 4 1/2 sts. to inch

Instructions: A multiple of 6 stitches + 2, size can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing number of cast on stitches by 6. All slip stitches are done as if to purl.

With CC cast on 44 stitches. Knit 6 rows (garter stitch Border). Keeping 3 stitches on each side in CC and garter stitch. (Knit every row) For side borders, begin pattern row 1 on center 38 stitches. Continue in pattern adding second ball of CC on row 3 for right border.

Row 1: Right side. With CC, P1, with yarn in front Sl 3, P3, Sl 3, etc across. End P 4. Yarn should lay loosly across front of work.

Row 2: With CC, K 4, with yarn in back, Sl 3, K3, Sl 3, K 3, Sl 3 across. End K1. Yan should lay loosely across right side of work.

Row 3: With MC Knit across.

Row 4: With MC Purl across.

Row 5: With MC, K 2, KUL (knit under loops by inserting right hand needle under the 2 loops laying across work and knitting the next stitch, at the same time slipping the loops over to the back of the stitch), K 5, KUL, K 5, across, end K 5.

Row 6: With MC Purl

Row 7: With CC, P 4, with yarn in front Sl 3, P 3, Sl 3, P 3 across, end P 1.

Row 8: With CC, K1, with yarn in back Sl 3, K 3, Sl 3, K 3, Sl 3, etc across. End K 4.

Row 9: With MC knit across.

Row 10: With MC Purl across.

Row 11: With MC K5, KUL, K 5, KUL, K 5, end K 2.

Row 12: With MC Purl across.

Repeat 12 rows for pattern, working rows 1, 2, 7, and 8, in CC all others in MC

When cloth is 1 inch less than desired length ending with either row 6, or row 12 break off MC and with CC knit 6 rows. Bind off loosely.

Knitting: Doily Style, Garter Stitch Eyelet Dishcloth

2008-06-28T21:20:00.000-07:00

Doily Style Dishcloth

Deisgner: Unknown

Sent to me by: Sharon

Rating: Medium

Materials: 1 ball 50 gr. Bernat Cotton Yarn. Set of 4, #7 US or 4.5mm needles

Directions:

Cast on 8 stitches

Divide stitches onto 3 needles. Place marker at first stitch.

Round 1: Knit through back of loop of each stitch to end of round

Round 2: (yarn forward and knit 1) 8 times (16 stitches)

Round 3: and all odd rounds, Knit

Round 4: (yarn forward knit 2) 8 times

Round 6: (yarn forward knit 3) 8 times (32 sts)

Round 8: (yarn forward knit 4) 8 times (40 sts)

Round 10: (yarn forward knit 5) 8 times (48 sts)

Round 12: (yarn forward knit 6) 8 times (56 sts)

Round 14: (yarn forward knit 7) 8 times (64 sts)

Round 16: (yarn forward knit 8) 8 times (72 sts)

Round 18: (yarn forward knit 1, yarn forward knit 2 tog. Knit 6) 8 times (80 sts)

Round 20: *yarn forward knit 1 (yarn forward knit 2 tog) twice knit 5. Repeat from * to end of round. (88 sts)

Round 22: * yarn forward knit 1, (yarn forward knit 2 tog.) 3 times. Knit 4. Repeat from * to end of round. (96 sts)

Round 24: * yarn forward knit 1, (yarn forward knit 2 tog.) 4 times. Knit 3. Repeat from * to end of round (104 sts)

Round 26: * yarn forward knit 1, (yarn forward knit 2 tog.) 5 times. Knit 2. Repeat from * to end of round (112sts)

Round 28: * yarn forward knit 1, (yarn forward knit 2 tog.) 6 times knit 1. Repeat from * to end of round. (120 sts)

Round 30: * yarn forward knit 1 (yarn forward knit 2 tog.) 7 times. Repeat from * to end of round. (128 sts)

Round 31: Purl.

Round 32: (inc. 1 st in the next st knitway, knit 15) 8 times (136 sts)

Cast off purlways.

Garter Stitch Eyelet Facecloth

Rating: Easy

Materials: 1 (2.5 oz) skein of worsted weight Lily Sugar 'n Cream, Size 6 (US) needles

Guage: Unimportant but mine is 4 sts to 1-inch, 7 rows to 1-inch.

Directions:

Cast on 41 stitches.

Row 1: through 4: Knit.

Row 5: Knit 3, * Knit 2 together, yarn over * repeat between *'s, to last 4 stitches, end Knit 4.

Row 6: Knit.

Repeat this six row pattern 12 times.

Knit 4 rows. Bind off.

I prefer to make facecloths/dishcloths a little longer than wide because they stretch so much horizontally.

Knitting: Double Diamond Circular, Checkerboard Dishcloth

2008-06-28T21:11:00.000-07:00

Double Diamond Circular Dishcloth

Rating: Medium

Materials: 1 ball of cotton yarn. Size 4.5 mm (or US #6) needles.

Size: Finished size 23 cm. (9")

Abbreviations: YO - Yarn Over , SKPO - Sl 1, K 1, psso, PSSO - pass slip stitch over.

Cast on 18 stitches (note, count stitches after 12th and 24th rows only)

Row 1 and all odd rows: Knit

Row 2: (K 1, yo) twice, K2 tog, yo, K 2 tog, K 11, turn.

Row 4: K 1, yo, K 3, (yo, K 2 tog) twice, K 9, turn.

Row 6: K 1, yo, K 5k (yo, K 2 tog) twice, K 7, turn.

Row 8: K 2 tog, Yo, K 2 tog, K 1, K 2 tog, yo, K 2 tog, yo, K 8, turn.

Row 10: K 2 tog, yo, K 3 tog, yo, K 2 toh, yo, K 8, turn.

Row 12: K 2 tog, yo, K 3 tog, yo, K 8, turn.

Row 14: (K 1, yo) twice, K2 tog, yo, K 2 tog, K 5.

Row 16: K1, yo, K 3 (yo, K 2 tog) twice, K 3.

Row 18: K 1, yo, K 5, (yo, K 2 tog) twice, k 1.

Row 20: K 2 tog, yo, K 2 tog, K 1, K 2 tog, yo, K 2 tog, yo, K 2.

Row 22: K 2 tog, yo, K 3 tog, yo, K 2 tog, yo, K 2.

Row 24: K 2 tog, yo, K 3 tog, yo, K 2.

Row 26: Knit to end.

As you can see you are knitting to one stitch less than in the previous row every time. These 26 rows form one "wedge". Repeat 6 more times. (7 wedges in total).

Finishing: Fold cloth with right sides together, cast on edge held behind the needle. Knit 1 loop from needle, one from cast on dege to form one stitch. Cast off in the usual manner, knitting the cast on and cast off edges together as you do so. Sew in ends, and draw up center of cloth.

Checkerboard Washcloth

Rating: Easy

Materials: Use a sport to worsted weight cotton, (1 - 50gram ball or less) and #3or #4 US needles.

Instructions:

Cast on 46 stitches.

Row 1: Knit across to last 3 stitches and slip them one at a time, with yarn in front, to the right needle.

Row 2 - 4: Repeat Row 1.

You now have 2 ridges of garter stitch with the beginnings of an applied I-cord border.

Row 5: K3, *k4, P4, repeat from * to last 3 stitches and slip them, with yarn in front, one at a time to the right needle.

Row 6 - 10: Repeat Row 5.

Row 11: K3, *P4, K4, repeat from * to last 3 stitches and slip them one at a time to the right needle.

Row 12 - 16: Repeat Row 11.

Repeat Rows 5 - 10.

Repeat Rows 11 - 16.

Continue in checkerboard stitch, working applied I-cord at the edges, until piece is square.

Continuing to work I-cord edge, work 4 rows garter stitch (all knit).

Cast off. Done!

Run the tails of yarn down through the little I-cord tubes at the sides - they're very well hidden there.

I think the alternating knits and purls help keep this washcloth from stretching too far out of shape the way an all garter stitch cloth can. A very utilitarian pattern!

Knitting: Lattice Stitch, Star Dishcloth

2008-06-28T20:56:00.000-07:00

Star Dishcloth
Designer: Unknown
Rating: Easy

Materials: 1 ball Sugar and Cream will make two dishcloths, Size J crochet hook.

Directions:

Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in second ch form hook, join to beginning sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc, (ch 1, sc in next sc) around, ending with ch 1, sl st in beginning sc.

Rnd 3: Sl st in ch 1 space, ch 1, sc, ch 2, sc in same ch 1 space, (ch 1, sc, ch 2, sc in next ch 1 space) around, ending with ch 1, sl st in beginning sc.

Rnd 4: Sl st in ch 2 space, ch 1, sc, ch 2, sc, in same ch 2, space, (ch 1, sc in next ch 1 space, ch 1, sc, ch 2, sc in next ch 2 space) around, ending with sl st in beginning sc.

Continue in this manner until 11 rnds or desired size is reached. Fasten off.

Lattice Stitch Dishcloth

Designer unknown
Finished size about 9 x 9
Rating: Easy - Medium

Materials: Cotton Worsted weight, 2 1/4 oz (50gr). Crochet Hook size I (5.50mm)

Directions:

Chain 34

Row 1: (Right side): Sc in second ch from hook, * skip next ch, dc in next ch, ch 2, dc around post of dc just made, skip next ch, sc in next ch; repeat from * across: 9sc and 8 ch-2 sps.

Row 2: Ch 4 (Counts as first dc plus ch 1), turn; sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next sc, * ch 1, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next sc; repeat from * across. 17 sts and 16 ch-1 sps.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn; sc in first dc, * skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc around post of dc just made, skip next ch-1 sp, sc in next dc; repeat from * across.

Row 4 - 18: Repeat rows 2 and 3, 7 times; then repeat row 2 once more; do not finish off.

Edging:

Rnd 1: Ch 1, turn; sc evenly around entire piece working an even number of sc and working 3 sc in each corner; join with slip st to first sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, do not turn; sc in next sc, working loosely around sc just made, sc in same st as joining. * skip next sc, sc in next sc, working loosely around sc just made, sc in skipped sc; repeat from * around; join with slip st to first sc, finish off.

Knitting: Chain, Lacy Crochet Dishcloth

2008-06-28T20:45:00.000-07:00

Chain Dishcloth
Designer: Unknown

Materials: Two colors of worsted weigh yarn; crochet hook size H.
Size: 9" x 10"
Directions:
With color A, ch 62.
Row 1: (right side) sc in 2nd chfrom hook, (ch 3, sk next 3 chs, sc in next ch) across: 15 ch-3 spaces.
Note: Mark right side.
Row 2: ch 1, turn, working in back loops only, sc in 1 st sc, (ch 3, sc in next sc) across.
Row 3: Repeat row 2, end off color A.
Row 4 - 5: Join color B, repeat Row 2, end off.
Repeat Row 2 for the rest of the dishcloth. Do 4 rows of color A and 2 rows of color B. Repeat until you reach desired length. Make sure you end with 4 rows of color A. The designer did 5 groups of color A and 4 groups of Color B to get the 9 x 10 size.
Edging: Ch 1, do not turn, sc evenly around entire dishcloth, working 3 sc in each corner, join with sl st to 1st sc, finish off.

Lacy Crochet Dishcloth
Designer: Unknown

Materials: Worsted weight cotton, Size 5.00m crochet hook (US H/8)
Directions:
Ch 41
Base row: Dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch, *ch 1, skip next ch, dc in next 3 ch, rep from * to end, turn. (39 sts.)
Row 1: Ch 2, *dc in next 3 sts, ch 1, skip next ch 1 sp, rep from * to last 3 sts, dc in last 3 sts, turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, *dc in first st, ch1, skip next st, dc in next st, 1 long dc (insert hook in ch 1 sp 2 rows below), rep from * to last 3 sts, dc in next st, ch 1 skip next st, dc in last st, turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in first st, *ch 1, skip next sp, dc in next 3 sts, rep from * to last 2 sts, ch1, skip next sp, dc in last st, turn.
Row 4: Ch2, *dc in first st, 1 long dc over next sp, dc in next st, ch1, skip next st, rep from * to last 3 sts, dc in next st, 1 long dc over next sp, dc in last st, turn.

Repeat rows 1 - 4 until work measures 11 in, from beginning. Fasten off.

Edging : Work 1 rnd sc evenly around entire outer edge, working 3 sc in each corner, sl st in first st.
Next round: Ch 2, dc in each st, working 3 dc in each corner st, sl st in top of turning ch. Fasten off. Tie in loose ends.

Knitting: V Stitch, Ballerina Dishcloth

2008-06-28T20:20:00.000-07:00

V Stitch Dishcloth

Designer unknown

Finished size about 9 x 9
Rating: Easy - Medium

Materials: Cotton Worsted weight, 2 3/4 oz (80gr). Crochet Hook size G (4.00mm)

Stitches Used:

FPdc: To work Front Post double crochet - YO, insert hook from front to back around post of st indicated, YO and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), (YO and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice.

Directions:

Chain 41.

Row 1: (Right Side) Dc in fourth ch from hook (3 skipped chs count as first dc), skip next ch, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch, * skip next ch, dc in next ch, skip next ch, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch; repeat from * across to last 3 chs, skip next ch, dc inlast 2 chs: 30 dc and 9 ch 1 sps.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc, now and throughout), work FPdc around next dc, * (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 sp, skip next dc, work FPdc around next dc; repeat from * across to last dc.

Fows 3 - 16: Ch 3, turn; work FPdc around next FPdc, * (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch 1 sp, skip next dc, work FPdc around next FPdc; repeat from * across to last dc, dc in last dc; do not finish off.

Edging:

Round 1: Ch 1, turn; 2 sc in same st, sc in each dc and in each ch 1 sp across to last dc, 3 sc in last dc; work 35 sc evenly spaced across end of rows; working in free loops of beginning ch, 3 sc in first ch, sc in next 37 chs, 3 sc in next ch; work 35 sc evenly spaced across end of rows, sc in same st as first sc; join with slip st to Back Loop Only of first sc. 156 sc.

Round 2: Ch 3, do not turn; 2 dc in Back Loop Only of same st, * dc in Back Loop Only of next sc, (dc in Front Loop Only of next sc, dc in Back Loop Only of next sc) across to center sc of next corner 3 sc group, 3 dc in Back Loop Only of center sc; repeat from * 2 times more, dc in Back Loop Only of next sc, (dc in Front Loop Only of next sc, dc in Back Loop Only of next sc) across; join with slip st to first dc, finish off.

Ballerina Dish Cloth

Rating: Easy - Medium

It is more likely to be used as a decoration than a dishcloth, but it is very pretty, so I had to include it. I will get a photo as soon as possible.

Materials: Bedspread weight crochet cotton - main color and small amount of contrast color. Steel crochet hook size 1.50 mm

Directions:

Waist

Using Main Color:

Round 1: Ch 36, join with sl st to form a ring. Ch4, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch, *ch2, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch, repeat from *. Join.

Round 2: Ch 4, dc in dc *ch 2, dc in dc, repeat from *. Join.

Round 3 - 7: Repeat round 2.

Skirt

Round 1: Ch 4, dc under ch, *ch2, dc in dc, ch 2, dcunder ch, repeat from*. Join.

Round 2: Ch 4, dc under ch, *ch2, dc in dc, ch 2, dc under ch, repeat from *. Join.

Round 3: Ch 4, dc under ch, ch 2, dc in next 4 dc, *ch 2, dc under ch, ch 2, dc in next 4 dc, repeat from *. Join.

Round 4: Ch 4, dc in dc, *ch 2, dc in dc, repeat from *. Join.

Round 5: Ch 4, dc under ch, *ch 2, dc in dc, repeat from *. Join.

Round 6 - 13: Repeat round 5, join, cut thread.

Round 14: Join cc in dc, ch4, *dc under ch, ch2, dc under next ch, ch2, dc under next ch, ch 2, dc in dc, repeat from *. Join.

Round 15: Ch 4, dc in dc, *ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in dc, repeat from *. Join, cut thread.

Round 16: Join main color in dc, ch 4, dc in dc, *ch 2, dc in dc, repeat from *. Join.

Round 17: Repeat Round 16. Join, cut thread.

Edge

Join cc in dc with a sc, *ch 3, sl st in 3rd chain from hook to make a picot, sc under ch, repeat from *. Join, cut thread.

Finishing Waist

Join cc in dc, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook to make a picot, sc under ch, repeat all around top of waist. Join, cut thread.

Shoulder Straps

There should be 9 open meshes for front of waist and 9 for the back. Join main color under ch. Ch 4, sc under same ch *ch 3, turn, dc between dc, repeat from * 7 times. Join under ch at back of waist, fasten, cut thread. Repeat for second strap.

With cc, ch a chain long enough to braid through waist and tie into a bow.

A Rug With A Past: Discovering Dhurrie

2008-05-08T12:13:00.000-07:00

Once viewed as strictly utilitarian, these simple, often-overlooked rugs now feature bright colors and lively designs that may surprise you. But one thing hasn't changed -- they're still very affordable.

Dhurrie rugs, once identified with a limited palette of pale colors and floral designs, have come a long way. Today's dhurries are available in a variety of colors, including some deep, rich tones with a range of geometric patterns, as seen in the examples shown here and on the following pages.

Unappreciated Dhurries

MENTION DHURRIES, and people often groan, recalling the coarse, flat-woven rugs from India that carpeted countless dorm rooms and starter apartments in the 1970's. Cost was their obvious virtue; dhurries were so cheap and plentiful that rug merchants often handed them out as gifts to customers who purchased pricier orientals.
Dhurries are still readily available and relatively economical, particularly when compared with more fashionable flat-woven rugs such as kilims. But these days, they also get respect. True, those pale florals are still sold, but today's dhurries are just as likely to come in bold geometrics or classic stripes, as well as traditional Hindu patterns and up-to-date designs that re-call Navajo rugs, kilims, and Aubussons. And durable wools and stonewashed cottons have edged out poorer-quality cottons as the fabrics of choice for many dhurrie rugs sold in the United States.

Following a 1982 gallery exhibition in London, appropriately titled "The Unappreciated Dhurrie," the best of these hand-loomed rugs finally gained some esteem. Organized by British carpet dealer David Black, it was the first exhibit of its kind and the first serious treatment of the subject. Pretty pastel dhurries now turn up in stylish summer houses as often as in budget apartments. And interior designers are as likely to choose dhurries for their beauty as college students are for their price.

Dhurries are also adaptable -- and fun. Small cotton dhurries, costing as little as $20, make ideal bath mats. Larger dhurries with stains or holes can be cut up and recycled as throw pillows, curtains, and slipcovers. Indeed, a popular item at ABC Carpet & Home in New York is a graceful wood chaise lounge upholstered with a merrily striped dhurrie rug.

By definition, a dhurrie (the word is sometimes spelled "dari" or "durrie"), is a flat-woven rug indigenous to India and the surrounding regions -- Pakistan, eastern Afghanistan, and Myanmar (formerly known as Burma). Dhurries are always weft-faced, which means that the warp, or lengthwise threads of the rug, are never visible except at the fringes. Dhurries can be coarsely or finely woven and, best of all, they are reversible.

Dhurries have few structural or stylistic restrictions. The rugs usually display "dovetailed joints," which means that the same warp is shared when wefts of different colors meet, resulting in an unbroken weave. But they sometimes employ the slit-tapestry technique used in kilims, which creates small gaps when different blocks of color are introduced.

Stripes, geometrics, and rudimentary religious images, such as mosques and minarets, were traditional dhurrie motifs, largely because they were easy to create on the simple horizontal looms used to weave them. But as Britain's influence grew in 19th-century India, so did the popularity of European designs, particularly garish Victorian floral patterns.

Designs also came from oriental pile carpets that were imported from Iran, Afghanistan, and Chinese Turkestan. And as Stephen Cohen notes in The Unappreciated Dhurrie catalogue, a border from one design was often matched with a central field from a different rug, resulting in somewhat unusual, often strange, hybrids.

Over the centuries, Indians of all castes used dhurries of various quality as prayer rugs, floor carpets, bedding, and enormous ground coverings for outdoor picnics. But because dhurries were historically fashioned from cotton, few fine antiques predating the 19th century have survived.

That hardly bothers aficionados who insist the most desirable dhurries were made between 1880 and 1920 by inmates of Indian prisons, who wove them to relieve boredom. Prison dhurries displayed sophisticated technique, top-notch craftsmanship, and a wide range of designs. Stripes and geometrics were popular, though more curious designs often were devised by the warden's family.

Practically Beautiful

The United States is a huge market for dhurries, a fact which may account for the plethora of contemporary rugs with Native American images. Most dhurrie designs are still fairly simple, with minimal detail, big blocks of color, and a palette of just four or five hues. "That helps keep the price down," says Morris Afkari of Afkari Carpets, an oriental-rug dealer in New York.
Today dhurrie rugs are something of a cottage industry, woven on simple looms by farm families eager for additional income as well as on more advanced looms in factories. The 1960's and 70's saw the rise of export dhurries, "ludicrously cheap," remarks Graham Head, managing director of the rug department at ABC Carpet & Home. Imported carpets arrived bundled in old dhurries, much the way the Japanese a century ago wrapped artworks for export in old ukiyo-e prints.

Following the dhurrie renaissance 30 years ago, a number of exporters upgraded their products, substituting wool for cotton and using a finer thread count. "Wool dhurries are pretty durable," says Morris Afkari, and they can last as long as 20 years.

Yet most wholesalers still buy dhurries by the bale, which keeps retail prices low, usually below $1,000 and often in the $500 to $600 range for a 9x12 rug.

Folding Wooden Shelf

2008-02-26T08:12:00.000-08:00

A portable or folding shelf is great for those unanticipated needs such as yard sale, Christmas or other times when you need to display or store things. The folding shelf is a fairly simple woodworking project and uses a plate (biscuit) joiner for assembly. The unit pictured here was constructed from pine but most any wood may be used. You can stain and finish the shelf as you like but polyurethane is a good, tough, finish.

Level of Difficulty: 2 out of 5
Time Required: 4 hours

Tools:

Table saw
Electric drill
Biscuit joiner
Screw driver
Bar/pipe clamps
Belt or orbital sander

Materials:

Pine shelving
Wooden or metal dowel
Biscuits for joiner
Wood glue
Small hinge set
Stain, varnish or paint

Cutting the Pieces

Start by marking and cutting the pieces necessary. In our project the width is 36 inches and the unit stands 48" tall. There are four shelves, two folding (hinged) end pieces and a back frame. If you are going to use a clear finish, start with 1 x 10 stock of clear, select or D and better pine. Lower grades may be used if you are painting the project but the lower grades are often not as straight. The side shelf standards and the back frame are made by cutting the stock to length. You can rip the rails and cross members to 1-1/2 inches. This is a good time to sand or plane the ripped 3/4" faces.

To join the frame pieces, a biscuit joiner is used. The pieces are laid out for assembly. Carefully arrange the pieces so that joints are flush and square. At this point, carefully make a mark on both the frame and cross member in the middle of the joint. This mark is where you will align the cutting guide on the joiner. Be careful not to make the mark too close to either side of the work piece or the blade from the joiner may cut through the side, exposing the biscuit during final assembly. With one of the pieces clamped to your workbench, make the cut for the biscuit. Place the alignment mark on the joiner so that it is lined up with the mark you made earlier. It is also important that the horizontal fence is firmly against At this point, start the joiner and gently push the tool forward. Make sure you have a firm grip on the joiner as they have a tendency to "walk", especially when cutting a slot in end grain. Let the joiner recoil from the board face and move onto the next.

Glue biscuits and clamp side frames

Apply glue in the biscuit cut in the frame and end piece. Some squeeze-out is ok but avoid using too much glue. Using pipe or adjustable clamps, clamp the frame together and wipe the excess glue with a damp sponge. Tighten the clamp until the pieces are firmly clamped together but not bending.

The shelf is made of 1" x 10". In order to allow the shelf to swivel, we use a dowel on each side. We have used a wooden dowel (5/16") cut to 1- 1/4" long and the ends slightly sanded. Drill a slightly large hole in two ends of the shelf.

For a more secure shelf, use a 1/4" metal rod for the hinge pin. This will require smaller diameter holes and allow for more weight to be carried by the shelves.

Using dowels for hinging the folding shelves

If you can find a smooth metal rod, this would make a more sturdy support. In the frames, drill 5/16" hole to a depth of 5/8". If you don't have bit collars, a piece of electrical tape can be used as a depth gage. Glue the dowels to the frame piece.

With the side frame standards ready to go, you need to recess both the side and end frame pieces for a small brass hinge. Use either a chisel or your table saw to recess 1/16 to 3/32".

Install the hardware

When installing the hinges, one trick is to clamp both the side frames and the back frame together. Next, use an awl or nail to start the screw. This will ensure that when you screw the hinge in place that the pieces will line up when opened. It will also keep the wood from splitting.

The back rails are secured using 2-1/2" wood screws. Pre-drill a pilot hole in the end frames. Assemble the shelf on the dowels and screw the side frames together.

The Final Step

The shelves are cut approximately 1/4" less than the back rails. This should allow for ample clearance so that the shelves easily lift and fold. You've done and completed a lightweight, easily-stored, moved and set-up folding shelf!

How-To: Making Your Bed With Dust Ruffle

2008-02-22T09:10:00.000-08:00

Level: Moderate difficulty

Please read the following instructions completely before beginning this dust ruffle project. Making a dust ruffle to match the decor of a room is an easy sewing project even though you do have to handle a large quantity of fabric.

The mattress will probably be a standard size but the height off the floor is different for each frame so measure before you shop for fabric. A home made dust ruffle is better than ready made because you can put extra fullness in it and a generous hem creates a heavier, more custom made finished look.

Supplies:

4 yds. fabric for a twin bed
4 1/2 yds. fabric for a double bed
5 yds. fabric for a queen bed
5 1/2 yds. fabric for a king bed thread to match fabric
a flat sheet big enough to attach a ruffle
Fabric amounts are based on 54-in. wide fabric and a standard drop of 14 inches, however measure to make sure this will be enough fabric for your bed.

Step-by-Step:

1. To determine the amount of fabric you will need to cover the three sides of your mattress, measure the length and width of your mattress, then add the length x 2 to the width. If the bed has a foot board then the dust ruffle might be only covering the two long sides. When gathering fabric it is necessary to double the fullness, so take the total inches and multiply by 2.

2. Measure the distance between the top of the box springs and the floor, then add 5 inches to allow for a deep hem on the dust ruffle. Depth of ruffle including hem:

3. Divide the total running inches in step 1 by the width of the fabric to find the number of cuts you need.

Running inches / width of fabric = number of cuts

4. The number in Step 2 x the number in Step 3 will tell how many inches of fabric you will need. Always round that figure up to the nearest yard and you should have enough to complete the project. Depth of ruffle x number of cuts = yards to purchase:

5. Cut your lengths determined in Step 2 and seam these pieces together to make a long piece of fabric.

6. Using your iron and a ruler turn up a 4 inch hem on one side of this strip of fabric. It is easier to finish the hem before you gather the ruffle so check your measurement again before putting the hem in this long strip. Use a straight machine stitch or a blind hem stitch.

7. On the other long side of this hemmed strip, run a double row of gathering threads 3/4 inch from the edge. If using chintz or other heavy weight decorative fabric, be sure your gathering thread is strong enough to pull up the gathers. I like to zig zag over a light cord or upholstery thread when I'm gathering lots of fabric.

8. Remove the top mattress and cut an old sheet or large piece of fabric to fit the top of the box springs. You will attach the dust ruffle to this piece around three sides. If your bed has an unusual post or foot board you may need to make a break in the ruffle at the foot end of the bed. Determine that before you sew the long gathered strip to the sheet. The corners at the foot of the bed can be slightly rounded as you attach to the sheet.

9. To evenly distribute the gathers along the three edges of the sheet it is necessary to make a few reference points. Fold the long strip in half and then in quarters and at each of these folds place a safety pin - not a straight pin, close to the gathered edge. Determine the half way point along the sheet and the quarter point so when you're evening the gathers, look for your safety pins. Neatly turn in a hem at the beginning and ending of the ruffle before you attach it to the sheet.

10. If possible, move your sewing machine to a larger work area so you have room when sewing this ruffle to the sheet. Carefully pin the gathered ruffle to the sheet adjusting the ruffle fullness as you pin. Begin sewing around all three edges attaching the gathered ruffle with a straight stitch to the sheet. This seam should not show after the top mattress is put back on the bed. Step back and enjoy your beautiful new dust ruffle!

How-To: Make Kitchen Stools A Work Of Art

2008-02-22T08:48:00.000-08:00

Kitchen stools, bar stools and utility stools are extremely useful. They can also brighten an area if you create a design on them. A variety of techniques are easy to apply. Start with the most common, unfinished wooden stools that are easiest to find in either 24 or 32 inch heights. Begin by sanding the wood smooth. If you are using previously painted or stained stools, remove the finish or at least sand so you can repaint.

Pretty Paints
Paint the legs with one bright color and the round tops a contrasting color. Or, paint each rung and leg different pastel colors. When using two colors the darker shade should be used for the legs and the lighter shade for the top. It looks sturdier this way.

Savvy With Stain
Stain the legs with a dark wood stain and the top with a lighter stain. If you use an all-in-one product such as WoodSheen from MinWax, you can brush the stain and varnish on with one coat.

Check It Out
Paint the stools with semi-gloss, white latex enamel. When dry, create a grid of tape over the entire stool top and, using a sponge brush, paint the exposed squares with blue latex or acrylic. When you remove the tape you'll have a blue and white checkerboard top.

Batik-it!
Crayon batik is a wonderful technique that's fun to do and the results look great. It's best used for creating a bright, colorful, childlike design. Begin by drawing a simple design on the stool top. This might be something playful from a child's coloring book. Using oil pastels or crayons, color in all areas of the design. Coat this with shellac, not varnish or polyurethane. When dry, add more crayon color for a brighter design, if desired, and shellac again.

Sponge Shapes
From an ordinary sponge, cut different shapes such as triangles, squares and circles. Squirt a small amount of acrylic paint on a plate (it will wash off). Dab the sponge shape onto the paint and pat in a random pattern over the stool tops.

Marker Magic
Once the stool has been painted a background color, use a permanent marker to draw squiggly lines this way and that all over the stool top.

Decorate With Decals
Paint the entire stool and let dry. Then cover the stool top with a collage of floral decals. To design your own, cut flowers from, wrapping paper, greeting cards or wallpaper. One giant sunflower makes a nice design in the center of a stool. Cut out leaves and vines to wrap around the legs. Add several coats of varnish or polyurethane to cover the paper.

Paper Patchwork
Choose a variety of patterned and colored wrapping papers and cut into squares and triangles to arrange in a crazy quilt pattern on the stool. Or choose a traditional quilt square pattern to create with paper. Glue in position. The edges of the paper should overlap the edges to the underside of the stool top for a finished look. Coat with polyurethane.

Padded Comfort
Once you've painted the legs it's a cinch to upholster the seat. A large size printed napkin for example, a calico print, or dish toweling can be used to cover each stool. Cut the fabric so it is large enough to wrap around to the underside of the stool. Then cut a piece of quilt batting to fit the stool top and add some stuffing to the center. Place this on top of the stool and cover with the fabric. Pull the edges to the underside and staple all around.

Photo Montage
Create a montage of overlapping photographs or valentine stickers and paste over the stool top. Use a decorative ribbon or upholstery tape to glue around the edge of the top to finish.

Dab It On
For the quickest and easiest finish use a sponge painting technique. Paint the entire stool with white latex enamel. Then choose another color for the sponging. Rip off a piece of natural sponge and dab it into the color. Using a light touch, apply it alternately with a rolling and tapping motion to fill in with color. Add a band of solid color around the stool's edge for a finishing touch.

Milking It For All
It's Worth An early American, milk painted effect can be achieved by using fabric dye. Red or blue works best. Dilute the dye in a cup of boiling water. Use a sponge brush to coat the entire piece. It will soak into the wood and dry quickly if applied out of doors on a dry sunny day. Keep applying more dye to achieve a deep shade. Then dip fine sandpaper in soapy water and rub over the wood to create an unevenness of color with some of the natural wood showing through. This will make the wood satiny smooth. Apply a semi-gloss polyurethane over all.

Decorating: Slipcover Savvy

2008-02-22T08:45:00.000-08:00

Slipcovers solve a multitude of problems. First of all, they can cover up outmoded upholstery fabric. By using decorator fabric, slipcovers instantly transform an old piece of furniture for today's fashion. Further, they unify a room. By using the same fabric on all pieces the odd ball chair is pulled together with the rest of the furniture. Slipcovers also enable you to change the look for summer and winter. And finally, slipcovers are less expensive than new furniture. There are fine workrooms and stitchers who can do the job for you. Check with your local sewing center or in the Yellow Pages.

The Right Fabric
When choosing fabric keep in mind that medium weight works best. It is durable, but easier to sew than a heavy weight fabric. Chintz is cool to the touch, especially good for summer and is often recommended for slipcovers.

Choosing A Pattern
Florals are easy to live with and will always be stylish. Even if the fabric fades, a floral print gives the furniture a look of having a past, as if the furniture was inherited by a great aunt.

Calm and Cool
Textured white or beige is refreshing and calms a room. Neutrals provide the perfect background for any color you might introduce. Stripes stand up to the test of time. You can use floral or tapestry pillows effectively with stripes.

Sew It Yourself
For anyone vaguely familiar with sewing techniques, it's not that difficult to make your own slipcovers. In their book, "Decorating With Fabric" (Clarkson N. Potter, Inc.), Donna Land and Lucretia Robertson give clear and simple directions for measuring and making them for any piece of furniture.

Trying It Out
Loosely fit slipcovers that are more draped than fitted have a casual charm. Wrapping cushions and tucking here and there can actually simulate a slip covered sofa if you want to try a fabric for awhile to see how you like it.

Decorating: Simplify for Summer

2008-02-22T08:40:00.000-08:00

When the weather turns hot we tend to do less, which includes house care. There are lots of ways to simplify our homes for the lazy, hazy days of summer.

Airy Wicker
Wicker furniture, especially the all-weather variety, is light and airy for use indoors and out. Even the fabric-covered cushions are weather-proof and dry out quickly after becoming damp from a sudden downpour. Replace an upholstered chair with a wicker one.

Furniture
Drape a side table with a cool colored sheet. If any of your furniture needs a new finish, consider pale blue or aqua color paint.

White Is Cool
If a room needs repainting, nothing looks fresher than white. Put a drop of pink or yellow in the paint to take away the deadness of hospital white.

Floors
Remove room carpets and add scatter rugs, or no rugs at all if you have nice wooden floors. Dhurries come in all sizes and cool pastel colors. They're practical and easy to care for. A sisal rug is natural in color and inexpensive.

Put Away Knick Knacks
Remove knick knacks and replace them with one important piece, like perhaps an American folk art whirligig or a basket filled with flowers. And by the way, folk art and crafts are becoming the "hottest" collectables so this might be a good time to start a collection.

Bare Your Windows
If you don't need to cover windows for privacy, removing curtains and draperies for summer creates instant light in the rooms. If you need some sort of covering try sheers or a panel of lace. Or use shades that can be pulled down only when needed.

Outdoor Chairs
If you have those ubiquitous, wire chairs on the patio you know how uncomfortable they are. Try covering thin foam cushions with pillowcases for a pretty and comfortable look.

Dark Wood
If you have dark wooden pieces of furniture, add a lace-edged linen runner or table cover to the top just to lighten it. Place a white bowl or glass vase of fresh wildflowers on top.

Fabric and Trims
To lighten upholstered furniture, add a couple of throw pillows covered with a summertime print. All-white textured pillows can be trimmed with piping to match the fabric on the sofa or chairs. Add a wide, striped ruffle to a floral chintz pillow. Cover fat cording with contrasting to fabric to edge a tablecloth that drops to the floor.

Flowers
Place herbs in large clay pots on windowsills. Keep a glass vase filled with white flowers on the side table or in the middle of the dining table. Fill a white pitcher or bowl with a loose arrangement of wildflowers and herbs or mint, which will add a fresh aroma to the air.

Unusual Planters
Add a thin coating of white wash to terra cotta pots. Paint the pots white, then wipe away most of the paint leaving a hint of white film to lighten the clay color.

Romantic Bathroom
Make your bathroom inviting. Spray paint a small wicker basket white. Add dabs of pink acrylic paint over the entire basket. Place a lace doily in the basket and fill with potpourri. Tie a delicate, embroidered ribbon to the handle.

Trim hand towels with lace, crocheted or ribbon edgings. For a no-sew technique, use fusible webbing and press the trim onto the towel. It will stay through repeated washings.

On The Wall
Create a display of miniatures on a bathroom wall. Try matting and framing botanical greeting cards, old family snapshots or pressed flowers. Look for interesting frames at yard sales or in antique shops.

l5 Minute Makeovers With Sheets

2008-02-22T08:37:00.000-08:00

Sheets and pillow cases are terrific for use in making inexpensive, instant changes. Use them temporarily to cover upholstered furniture for the summer. Just drape and tuck here and there for a loose, casual fit. Sheets feel wonderfully cool to the skin and are easy to wash. Many of the sheet companies come out with pretty springtime patterns early in the season and some have ruffled edges or eyelet hems.

Cushion Covers
Use large pillow shams to cover seat cushions. Just slip the cushion inside and tuck the excess fabric under the back of the seat.

Sofa Cover
Use a large flat sheet to cover sofa cushions and secure underneath with safety pins to anchor and keep the fabric from coming loose when sitting on it.

Table Cover
Use a double sheet to drape over a dining table. The edges are already finished, no sewing of hems required.

Sideboard Cover
A sheet with a ruffled or pretty trim on the top edge is perfect for a sideboard. The untrimmed side is placed to the back and the sides won't matter. Or, add iron-on seam binding in a contrasting color all around. No sewing needed!

Instant Curtains
Use single sheets with a pretty border for curtain panels. Attach ribbons with straight pins (or iron-on seam binding) evenly spaced along the top edge and tie to the curtain rod.

Colors That Look Best
For a coordinated look, combine prints and matching solids. Dark pastels look like better fabric than light pastels. Use decorator colors and the fabric won't look so much like a sheet. For example, use forest green rather than aqua, raspberry rather than pale pink.

Use Sheets Unwashed
Don't wash the sheets before using them. Inexpensive sheets are really the best because they are slightly stiff and therefore more crisp looking. They will be limper and softer after washing, which is great for the bed, but not for decorating.

No Sewing For Cut Edges
If you have to cut a piece of fabric to cover a small end table for example, tie a fat knot at each corner to finish the edges in an interesting way. Again, no sewing required.

Cool Bedroom
Use a large, floral print top sheet as a bedspread to keep the bedroom looking cool and summertime fresh. Pick out the solid colors in the sheet to cover the night tables. Cut the ruffle off the top of a sheet and tape (double face) to the edge of the window shades for temporary decoration.

Pillow Case Covers
Pillowcases are terrific for covering the plastic, padded seats on wire chairs. Look for pillow cases with a decorative border. Just slip the case over the seat pad and stitch across the open edge.

Outdoor Cushions
A single sheet can be used to make 4 oversized 20-24 inch pillows for a bench in the garden or on a deck. For each pillow cut 2 pieces of sheeting 2 l/2 in. larger than the pillow form all around. With right sides facing, pin the front and back together and stitch around 3 sides and 4 corners, leaving one edge open. Turn right side out and insert pillow form or fill with stuffing. Gather the excess fabric at each corner and tie a ribbon around the fabric. Each corner will look like it has little bunny ears. When the cover needs washing just untie the corner ribbons and slip it off.

Decorating: Spring Spruce-Ups

2008-02-22T08:34:00.000-08:00

When spring arrives we all want to clean out the cobwebs, take down the heavy drapes, roll up the carpets and lighten up every room in the house.

Fabrics
Nothing changes the look of a room as quickly and easily as fabric. For do-it-yourself home decorators, McCall's Pattern Company offers patterns for pillows, whimsical swags with rosettes, bed, table, and chair coverings. Every spring the fabric houses bring out an entirely new line so it's worth a trip to the fabric shop.

Window Treatments
Romantic swag valances replace heavy cornices. Sheers replace draperies.

Bedrooms
Bed treatments are taking a romantic turn with pillows piled on top of each other. There are ruffled shams; heart shaped, round and square pillows of all sizes adorned with ruffles, shirred corded edges or tassels. All the pattern books now have extensive home decorating sections so even the novice sewer can make lavish accessories inexpensively.

Cheer Up With Paint
Did you ever think of painting the inside of a closet pale yellow for a quick lift? The yellow interior will brighten the closet and your spirits. Reline closet shelves with a fresh springtime pattern. It's amazing how much mileage you'll get from this simple act.

Slip Into Summer
Summertime usually dictates a more casual decorating style for easy and relaxed living. Parts of the country where it's warm most of the year, often influence trends that are introduced to areas with only a short summer season. Here are some ideas for casual, summer decorating culled from designer friends in various parts of the country.

From California
Slipcovers in heavy cotton, duck or linen are best in white or beige. Set the table with textured damask tablecloths and napkins.

From A Southern Prospective
Big, tropical floral prints in faded colors that look like the l920s or 30s. Use it on everything from sofas to tables.

From Designers Everywhere
White chinaware is still more attractive than any other as a background for serving a meal. Set the table with white tablecloths and lace trimmed napkins (very large). This is a look that never looks tired. It's always perfectly right for summer. Add one color, such as green or bright orange poppies in the center of the table.

The Greening Of Summer
Large green place mats with white or green and white napkins are terrific on top of a pine table or outdoors on a white patio table, or on top of white linen. Green and white checked fabric, that we're so used to seeing in blue and white is a change of pace and still a classic pattern. It's bold and bright for seat cushions and throw pillows on the patio or deck.

When Old Looks New
Big florals on a green and white stripe background is an interesting look from a past decade. It resembles fabric used for house dresses in the 30's and 40's and seems antique and new at the same time.

Waterside
If you live by the beach or have a pool, cover outdoor cushions with bright colored or brightly striped terry cloth towels. It's practical and pretty, if only used temporarily.

Decorating: Saving by Sewing

2008-02-22T08:31:00.000-08:00

Take stock of areas in the house that could benefit from a new fabric replacement. Sewing is a relaxing and fulfilling way to spend a weekend at home and making your own home accessories can be quite cost efficient. The new sewing machines do everything but cook a meal. If you need a push to get started there are lots of easy weekend projects that take an hour or two to complete.

Home Decorating Patterns
Most of the pattern companies have added a home fashion section to their pattern books and you'll find designer shades, balloon curtains and fancy drapes, as well as patterns for tablecloths, chair cushions, seat backs, slipcovers to dress up folding metal bridge chairs and even fanciful tea cozies.

Patchwork Duvet
You can make a duvet cover for your comforter in less than an hour by stitching two pretty sheets together. Or make an interesting patchwork duvet by stitching together enough 5-6 in. squares in alternating colors to create the overall size needed. Use a solid sheet in the appropriate size for the back and leave the top edge open to insert your comforter. Attach Velcro, buttons or snaps evenly spaced across the top for closing.

Potholders Are Practical
How often do you replace your potholders? It's so easy to whip up new ones in bright colors or even shapes. An Amish quilt pattern in a typical color combination of black, purple, deep red and dark green is terrific looking.

Cover Exposed Pipes
If you have an old-fashioned sink with exposed pipes below make a fabric skirt to attach to the sink. Velcro is the best way to attach the gathered fabric to the edge of the sink.

Napkins From Leftovers
Pretty napkins are easy to whip up from a bunch of remnants. Buy a little bit of every fabric print that attracts you. For a generous size napkin of l8 in. square you'll get two from a l/2 yard of fabric. With the cost of cloth napkins skyrocketing hemming four edges of fabric is a cinch.

Wall hanging
A quilted wall hanging is an interesting and inexpensive substitute for a painting. Use pretty remnants of fabric. Fabric shops often sell quarter yard rolls cut especially for quilt making. Make your project 45 in. square, which is exactly the width of most fabric and you will only need a total of l l/2 yards for the top and l l/2 yards for the backing (this can be muslin). You'll find a variety of patterns in any quilt book.

Always A Place For Place Mats
If you're crazy about the more expensive fabrics you won't need much to make a set of elegant place mats. Try floral chintz. Use a plain fabric backing and save the good stuff for the top. Make them slightly larger than the ones you buy and add interest with a second stitch line in a contrasting thread color l/2 inch in from the edge all around.

Small Comfort
A crib quilt in a simple patchwork or applique pattern is easy, practical and fun to make. Choose a pattern that is a repeat of one shape, such as a rectangle. In this way you can cut all the pieces at once and there are no complicated directions. The excitement comes from the choice of fabric and the arrangement of the fabric pieces. I like to use soft pastels on a baby's quilt. The colors and the fabric get softer and look better with each washing. A quilt lined with thin cotton batting is a good lightweight covering for the summer. Use traditional batting for a warmer cover.

Seamless Seems Easier
Some of the fabric companies sell 90-in. wide fabric to eliminate seams in home sewing. Springmaid, for one has a line of cotton chintz prints at affordable prices. McCall's has patterns for a canopy, fabric screen, shower curtain and drapes that use the 90-in. wide fabric. This is a real contribution for quilt makers as it is now possible to back a quilt with fabric that doesn't require seaming.

Craft Explosion
Fabric shops now carry craft supplies because the pattern companies are including craft projects in their pattern books. Bandbox patterns that require no sewing can be found in the Vogue and Butterick books. Vogue has introduced a lavishly embroidered pillow pattern trimmed with braid, tassels and ribbon. Elaborate window treatments are contained in Butterick's "Windows in a Weekend" package.

Decorating With Dye

2008-02-22T08:19:00.000-08:00

Old furniture, unfinished wood pieces as well as wicker can be refurbished instantly to look like treasured country classics. Fabric dye is an inexpensive and easy way to stain furniture a wonderful country color like faded blue or red found on early American pieces. Give a hand rubbed look to kitchen chairs, a dining table, an armoire or coffee table. Once you've applied the color you can add a decoration such as a stenciled design in another color.

Tips For Dye Staining:

Whenever possible, use unfinished wood or wicker.
If you are dyeing an old piece of furniture, completely strip away all paint, varnish or other finish.
Sand the surface of the wood until smooth and wipe clean.
Pine, oak, walnut, cherry and balsa all absorb the dye beautifully. Pine shows the truest stain colors.
To make the wood more absorbent, wet the entire piece with a water soaked sponge before applying the stain.
Mix 1 part hot water to 2 parts liquid dye. Test the color by applying, it with a sponge brush to a hidden area (such as the back or underside).
Use rubber gloves and brush the stain in one direction onto the wood. Cover all surfaces and let the stain dry to see the true color before deciding if the piece needs another coat. The dye will dry almost instantly . For best results keep the dye hot while you work. Note: If the wood is soft and quite absorbent, it may require several coats to achieve the desired results.
To finish the piece, apply a thin coat of satin varnish or polyurethane to all exposed surfaces. Let dry and apply a coat of clear furniture wax for a fine sheen. If you are planning to add a stencil design, do so before varnishing.

Stenciling With Dye
There are many precut stencils available in hardware stores and craft shops. Choose a darker color than your background for the stencil stain.

Mix a solution of 2 parts dye and l part hot water.
Tape the stencil in place on your furniture and paint the dye onto the cutout area. Use a new stencil for each new color.

Since the dye is not opaque the color behind the stencil will show through, giving it a faded appearance. This is in keeping with the country look and your piece will at once add character to any room.

An Instant Home Office

2008-02-22T08:06:00.000-08:00

Finding Space For Home Work

A home office used to be the exclusive province of those who worked at home. But today, almost everyone needs an area reserved for "homework", whether it's work we take home from the office, a place to file and pay bills, or for working out of our homes. It's easier to be efficient in a well, planned work space.

How Big Is Big Enough?
A home office needn't be an entire room. It can be a well defined corner of a room. A closet can be converted into a small work area for housing a desk, end to end, with built-in shelves and files on either sides. A large dining room or kitchen often yields an out of the way niche. So the first decisions are: Where can you steal some space?, and, Will you be comfortable working there?

Making Plans
Ask yourself the following questions:

What work will I do here?
How much space would I like?
How little space can I realistically live with?
What equipment do I need, i.e. typewriter, computer, adding machine, filing cabinet, etc.?

What You'll Need
Make a list of everything you'll need on hand on the desk top and what you want hidden. Do you need shelves? How many? Drawers? Files? Stationary items? Storage for computer paper, reference materials, etc.?

Catalogs
Office equipment catalogs will give you ideas for setting up different size efficient work spaces. They're fun to look through.

Design An Office
Several manufacturers carry designer items such as desks, bookshelves and computer stands, intentionally small for home, rather than office use. They are also better looking and cheaper than typical office furniture.

Specialties
Look for catalogs containing artist's drawing tables and architectural files, among other things. These can be functional for you even if this isn't your line of work. For example, there is an item called a "Boby" (pronounced Boh-bee). It's a compact, plastic, sectional taboret to hold art supplies and it rolls on casters. Everything fits neatly into the swing out drawers and it's perfect in limited space. Great for a sewing room as well as a home office! This item is available at most art supply stores.

Make A Layout
Use graph paper to plan the layout. Draw each item to scale and in position. If you want to go further, you'll find room planning kits for around $30 at home centers. The one for kitchen designs has the right elements to use for designing an office. In fact, check out kitchen counters and cabinets if there's a showroom nearby. You can easily adapt these elements for your office space. Formica or Corian, traditionally used for kitchen counter tops, are a terrific surfaces for a desk. They're easy to clean and if you use white or beige, the light reflects off it to brighten the work area.

Important Items

A comfortable typing chair is good for any office work, it rolls and fits neatly under a knee hole space.
Industrial carpeting muffles sound and is practical. It also defines the office area.
A good desk lamp that's adjustable.
Accessories: Don't adapt coffee mugs and drinking glasses for holding pencils. Try to find good looking accessories that make your new home office look smart and businesslike.
A phone with a separate business line.

An Instant Home Office
It's easy to create an efficient desk for home office space. All it takes are two filing cabinets of the same height, (but not necessarily the same style), a hollow core door, 3 cans of spray paint (now available in decorator colors such as Aztec clay, English rose and Wedgewood blue) and 8 yards of self-adhesive paper such as Contact (marbleized or granite designs are quite attractive).

Files
Remove the drawers from the cabinets. If the files are rusty sand lightly. Using a back and forth motion, spray paint the entire surface of each file. Repeat on the front of the drawers.

Door
Cover the top and sides of the door with Contact paper, making sure the self-adhesive paper wraps to the underside. Smooth out all air bubbles with the palm of your hand or use a wooden yardstick. Turn it on edge and apply pressure while moving it from the center outward on each side.

Putting It All Together
Place the covered door on top of the file supports at each end. The trick to making this arrangement look good is the accessories you use. A great desk lamp is essential, a grouping of framed photographs, a pretty vase to hold fresh flowers, a small clock, and an interesting paperweight are a few suggestions.

Decorating: Color Ideas, Into the Woods

2008-02-08T11:23:00.000-08:00

Red-and-green plaid walls and ceiling are in keeping with the casual cabin look.

A red-green-and-blue plaid rug provides a color plan for painted furniture. Green is a frequent color companion for red and blue in traditional rooms.

Even a mud room calls for color. Deep green walls harmonize with dark wood and a classic plaid carpet.

Decorating: Color Ideas, Cooling Trends

2008-02-08T11:10:00.000-08:00

Brilliant blue-green cushions punctuate a scheme of natural colors and textures. Warm neutrals almost always benefit from the cooling influence of green, blue-green or blue.

A less-than-desirable given—old wall tile—became an asset with the help of decorative paint. Aqua and apple green, in combination with metallic copper and gold, create the look of verdigris.

Wood painted a strong blue-green is a cool backdrop for warmer-colored furnishings, flooring and window treatments. Carrying the color to the ceiling makes the room cozier.

Decorating: Color Ideas, Black Accents

2008-02-08T11:05:00.000-08:00

Black is an essential element in a mosaic floor composed of smashed tile shards. Solid-color walls are a visual respite from the highly patterned floor.

Black and gray punctuate expanses of light-value, low-intensity color in this offbeat bathroom. Slightly darker values of red and green add visual weight to the airy colors.

Primary hues are ideal color companions for black; white provides a clean, simple backdrop.

Black lends itself to crisp geometric designs, offset here by whimsical painted walls.

How to Get an 'Antique' Finish

2008-02-08T10:37:00.000-08:00

Our master craftsman shares his finishing expertise so you can duplicate the look of antiques

Through paint, there are a number of "looks" you can create on wood furniture. Most of the painting methods are relatively simple but, all of them do require some practice to ensure successful results. The following lists those the finishes that the author found were of the most help to those students in his woodworking class who wanted to learn how to duplicate a country paint finish.

Antique Paint Finish

This is the finish to use when you are trying to create a faithful replica of a museum or other very old piece. Generally, this is the kind of finish you will find on primitive or early pieces commonly found in old village restorations and the like. The look is that of well worn furniture having its own "patina" of the ages. On a painted finish thelatter refers to a finish that has been exposed to lots of use, and it shows. Those who cherish American Country furniture also cherish the look of this finish as well.

When you stop to think about it you realize that our cabinetmaking ancestors basically started with a tree then, using simple and often crude tools, fashioned the furniture they lived with. And, much of that furniture is quite remarkable.

For many, including the author, no furniture created before or since, quite comes up to the level of excellence --- in both design and construction --- established by the furniture makers of the Shaker sect. They like the earlier colonial craftsman frequently painted their furniture because this permitted them to use, rather than waste, lesserexamples of wood.

Basically, there are two ways to obtain a good-looking antique-painted finish:

1) With a commercial a kit; these are okay for small projects but costly if used on larger pieces.

2) Paint the piece from scratch, utilizing the expertise we have developed over hundreds of finishing jobs.

Kit Antiquing

For environmental reasons, the most popular kits these days are those comprised of latex or acrylic products. With one of these kits you can finish a project in very little time and with a minimum of effort. Both of these advantages are strong lures for many do-it-yourselfers.

The majority of these commercial kits are two-step applications. Make certain you read and follow the maker's instructions on the can, no matter which brand you buy: application techniques can and do vary from one maker to the next.

Hammermark's Painted Country Finish For openers, know that antique painting is almost always done with two colors: for example, a gray-green (olive) over a blue; Federal blue over a black, and so on. The color selection is up to you or, it may be dictated by an original piece you admire and wish to replicate. The following steps tell how to do it.

To avoid confusion here, we refer to the color first applied as the base color and the following coat as the top color.

1. Sand the raw wood smooth. In most cases on softwood, you can stop sanding after the 120-grit session. On hardwood you can take the sanding a step further and go up to 150 grit. For this finish, the trick is to avoid oversanding; remember, you want to create a somewhat rough, antique looking finish. In fact, I generally do some with-the-grain rubbing with a steelwire brush, at this stage, so as to cause striations in thesoftwood. This rubbing creates a very worn look to effectively simulate weathering.

2. Dust off carefully and wipe all surfaces with a tack rag.

3. Apply a coat of stand of you choice to the entire piece. The stain's sole function is to make the new wood look old when some paint is rubbed off later ( to expose wood). Tip: Since this is the stain's only purpose, it is usually best to select either a relatively dark pine or light walnut stain for this task. Allow stain to dry ovenight.

4. Next, pour both colors into separate vessels. A good stunt is to make a small "bowl" from aluminum foil for each color to be used. These save leanup time later because they can simply be thrown out at job's end. If you plan to use more than two colors, or white, gray or black, each must be kept separate; that is, poured into its own vessel. Finally, also have some stain on hand so you can spatter with a toothbrush, if desired, to get instant aging.

5. Using either rags or brush, apply the base coat to the piece working small, logical areas at a time.

6. Let the paint rest for several minutes then, before it gets tacky, lay on the top color. Then, carefully drag a lint-free, clean rag across the surface to blend the colors. Note: A prewashed, worn Turkish towel is perfect for this task The object is to marry the colors to obtain a perfect blend--which does not look manmade.

Note: Though this is not a particularly difficult technique to master, do take the time to practice this step on scrap wood, you will be glad you did.

7. While the top color is still wet, use an old toothbrush, and either black paint or stain, to spatter here and there --- to get those "age" spots mentioned above. Don't overdo it; here, less is more.

8. To get that well worn look, you must rub through the paint in various areas to expose the stained wood beneath. You can do this now while the paint is wet using Turkish toweling; or, if preferred, you can wait until the paint has dried then carefully rub the selected edges with a wad of 3/0 steel wool. The first technique requires more skill but, it is less work than the latter.

9. If desired, you can thin some dark brown or black paint to a wash consistency using mineral spirits and apply the wash to simulate the look of years of accumulated dirt. Apply wash to a small area at a time with either soft cloth or brush. Wait about five minutes, then wipe lightly with a clean, lint-free cloth. Make sure you leave some paint deposited in crevices, comers, etc. --in other words, where dirt would haveaccumulated over the years.

10. After the wash coat has dried the surface will have a flat look. This may or may not be desirable. If that's the look you want, the job is finished. But, if you want a slightly wax-like finish, you can apply one coat of a satin-finish varnish.

How-To: Slipcover hints

2008-01-27T08:22:00.000-08:00

MATERIALS

Tape Measure and Yardstick - For measuring proper cutting lengths.
Scissors - Make sure to use good, sharp fabric scissors.
T-pins - Long sturdy straight pins with a T-shaped head are much easier to work with during the pinning and fitting process than regular sewing pins.
Regular Pins - Can be used for some fitting and sewing.
Zippers - Slipcovers require longer, more durable zippers. Since the zippers are concealed, color is of little importance.
Sewing Needles - Select size 16 needles for heavier weight fabrics. You will not only be sewing slipcover weight fabric, but multiple layers at times-good strong needles are necessary. Get a large supply of them and change your needles frequently for the best results.
Seam Ripper - Even and expert sewer makes mistakes, and this little tool makes taking your seams apart much easier.
Iron - Ironing seams after sewing will make them lie flat and all a better fit. You can also iron pin-fitted seams to make a crease which will help estimate seam placement.
Thread - Use a slightly heavier weight thread for making slipcovers.
Overlock Thread- If you have an overlock serger machine, you will need overlock thread in a color coordinating with fabric.
Twill Tape - A woven fabric tape that can be used as a guide for skirt placement.

CHOOSING A FABRIC:

There is a wide range of fabrics suitable for slipcovers. Among those choices are polished cotton, shinta, ticking, canvas, linen, corduroy, denim, poplin or any medium weight cotton with a slightly crisp hand. Fabric and Home Bonanza offers a wide variety of decorator fabrics to choose from.

For best results, keep the following in mind when selecting your fabric:

The fabric should be closely woven so it will not ravel or stretch.
The fabric must be preshrunk.
Plain fabric or fabrics with an allover deign are the easiest to use.
Coordinating fabrics all you to transform basic slipcovers into ones with designer details.

The most accurate way to determine yardage requirements is to carefully measure the piece to be slipcovered.

Estimates are based on 44" to 43" fabric that does not require matching.

Fabrics with motif that must be matched require extra yardage. As a rule, if the repeat is 3' to 12", add ¾ yard for a chair. One yard for a loveseat and 1 ½ yards for a sofa. If the repeat is more than 12", double these amounts.

Consider purchasing extra yardage in case the slipcovers require some repair later on (1/2 yard) for a chair or one yard for a sofa is a good safety net).

If you are covering more than the number of cushions indicated on the chart, add 1 ½ for each additional cushion.

ESTIMATING ZIPPER LENGTH

For a Sofa or Armchair: The zipper is installed on the back, in the side seam that is on the right as you are facing the chair. To determine the optimum length, measure along this side seam, starting 2" below the top of the chair down to the bottom edge of the slipcover.

For cushions: For each removable cushion slipcover, the zipper should equal the length of the boxing strip along the back of the cushion plus approximately 4".

TRIM POSSIBIBLITIES:

Piping cord is the trim used to define the lines of a slipcover Besides providing a decorative touch, it adds strength to the seams. There is a tremendous selection of pre-made piping available-from simple colored cotton or chintz to fancy braided multi-colored puping. It is easy to estimate how much trim is tequired. In order to maintain the correct shape, a well made slipcover should be planned so that seams fall exactly on top of the seams of the original upholstery.

To calculate how much trim is needed, just measure all the seams, add them together, then add on more yard for seam allowances and a margin of error. As a general rule, only put piping where it is on the original upholstery.

How-To: Basic Quilting Instructions

2008-01-26T17:13:00.000-08:00

BASIC QUILTMAKING INSTRUCTIONS

These instructions offer a brief introduction to quiltmaking, a relaxing, yet addictive hobby. Interesting new quilt techniques are always being created and developed; consult your local Fabric & Home Bonanza store for the latest trends and classes. Quilts may be made for seasonal and everyday bed coverings, pillows, wall hangings, table toppers, table runners placemats and more. Review this information before beginning if you are making your first quilt or keep on hand for an easy reference guide.

BASIC SUPPLIES

Scissors (for paper & template plastic)
Iron & ironing board
Marking tools: pencils, chalk markers, fine-point permanent marker
Needles: package of sharps (for hand piecing) assorted sizes, package of betweens (for hand quilting), size Nos. 8 to 12
Quilting hoop or frame
Pins & pincushion
Rotary cutter and mat (at least 18" x 24")
Rulers: 2"x18", clear acrylic 12" square, clear acrylic 6"x24" (for use with a rotary cutter)
Sewing machine (for machine piecing)
Shears: 8" (for fabric)
Template plastic
Thimble (to fit the middle finger of your sewing hand)
Thread: nylon monofilament thread, size 004 (for machine quilting), quilting thread (for hand quilting), sewing thread in colors to match your fabrics.

FABRIC PREPARATION
Pre-wash fabric to remove excess dye and minimize shrinking of completed project. Machine wash gently in warm water, dry on warm setting and press. Immerse a swatch of fabric in a clear glass of water to test colorfastness; if dye appears, soak fabric in equal parts of white vinegar and water. Rinse and dry fabric; test another swatch. If dye still appears, do not use the fabric.

PRESSING
Proper pressing is a prerequisite for accurate piecing. Press with a light touch, using iron tip and an "up and down" movement. Save continuous motion ironing for wrinkled fabric. Use either steam or dry heat, whichever works best and assembly-type pressing to save time.

Choose a pressing plan before beginning a project and stay consistent, if possible. Seams are set by first being pressed flat and then pressed either to one side, usually toward the darker fabric, or open. Sometimes, both are used in the same project, depending on the design.

To prevent distortion, press long, sewn strips widthwise and avoid raw bias edges. Other pressing hints are: use distilled water, avoid a too-hot iron-which will cause fabric shininess, and pre-treat wrinkled or limp fabric with a liberal amount of spray fabric starch.

MAKING TEMPLATES
Make templates by placing transparent plastic over the printed template pattern and tracing with a fine-point permanent marker. Trace and cut out on the stitching line (broken line) for hand piecing templates; cut on the outer solid line for machine piecing templates.

Label each template with the name of the quilt, template letter, grain line and match points (dots) where sewing lines intersect. Pierce a small hole at each match point for marking match points on fabric.

FABRIC MARKING & CUTTING
Position fabric wrong side up and place the template on the fabric. With a marker or well sharpened pencil, trace around the template and mark match points. For hand piecing templates, allow enough space for ¼" seam allowances to be added. For machine piecing templates, cut along the drawn line. For hand piecing, cut ¼" beyond the drawn line.

PIECING
Stitch fabric pieces together for patchwork by hand or machine.

Hand Piecing
Place 2 fabric pieces right sides together. With point of pin, match corner or other match points to align seamlines; pin. Use about an 18" long single strand of quality sewing thread and sewing needle of you choice. To secure thread, begin at a match point and without a knot, take a stitch and a backstitch on the seamline. Make smooth running stitches, closely and evenly spaced, stitching on the drawn line on both patches of fabric. Backstitch at the end of the seamline. Do not stitch into the seam allowances. Press seams after the block is completed.

To join the seamed pieces and strengthen the intersection, stitch through the seam allowances and backstitch directly before and immediately after them.

Machine Piecing
Use a ¼" wide presser foot for a seaming guide or place a strip of opaque tape on the machine throat plate ¼" from the needle position. Place 2 fabric pieces right sides together, raw edges aligned and pin perpendicular to the future seamline to secure. Begin and end stitching at the raw edges without backstitching; do not sew over pin. Make sure the thread tension and stitches are smooth and even on both sides of the seam. When joining seamed pieces, butt or match seams, pin to secure and stitch. Press each seam before continuing to the next.

To chain piece, repeatedly feed pairs of fabric pieces under the presser foot while taking a few stitches without any fabric under the needle between pairs. Cut the chained pieces apart before or after pressing.

APPLIQUEING
Hand Applique
Needle-Turn Method. Place the template on the fabric right side. Draw around the template with a non-permanent marking tool or your choice, making a line no darker than necessary to be visible. Cut out the shape, including a scant ¼" seam allowance on all sides.

To blind stitch the appliqué shapes, position the appliqué shape on the background fabric, securing with a pin or a dab of glue stick. Select a sewing thread color to match the appliqué fabric. A 100% cotton thread is less visible than a cotton/polyester blend.

Begin stitching on a straight or gently curved edge, no at a sharp point or corner. Turn under a short length of seam allowance using your fingers and the point of your needle. Insert the needle into the seam line of the appliqué piece, coming up from the wrong side and catching just one or two threads on the edge. Push the needle through the background fabric exactly opposite the point where the thread was stitched onto the appliqué fabric piece. Coming up from the wrong side, take a stitch through the background fabric and appliqué piece again catching just a couple threads of the appliqué fabric. Allow about 1/8" between stitches. The thread is visible on the wrong side of your block and almost invisible on the right side.

As you stitch around the edge of an appliqué fabric piece, turn under the seam allowance as you work, following the drawn line on the right side of the fabric, using your fingers and the point of the needle.

Freezer Paper Method 1. Trace the template shape onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out. With a dry iron, press the freezer paper shape, shiny side down, onto the appliqué fabric right side. Cut out the fabric, including a scant ¼" seam allowance on all sides. To stitch, follow the same procedure used in the Needle-Turn Method. Rather than using the drawn line as your guide, use the edge of the freezer paper.

Freezer Paper Method 2. Trace the template shape onto the dull side of freezer paper and cut out. With a dry iron, press the freezer paper shape, shiny side down, onto the appliqué fabric wrong side. Cut out the fabric, including a scat ¼" seam allowance on all sides. Finger press the seam allowance to the back of the paper template and baste in place. To stitch an appliqué fabric piece, follow the same procedure used in the Needle-Turn Method. The seam allowance has already been turned under in this technique. To remove the freezer paper, shortly before closing the appliqué, remove the basting and pluck out the freezer paper with a tweezers; or after the appliqué is sewn, cut the background fabric away behind the appliqué and remove the paper.

To reverse appliqué, two fabric pieces are layered on the background fabric, the edges of the top fabric are cut in a particular design and turned under to reveal the underlying fabric. Pin or glue the bottom appliqué fabric into position on the background block. Cut the top fabric along the specified cutting lines. Place the top fabric over the bottom fabric; check the position of the bottom fabric by holding the block up to a light source and pin. Use the Needle-Turn Method to turn under the top fabric seam allowance and appliqué.

Machine Applique
Trace templates without seam allowances on paper side of paper-backed fusible web. Cut out, leaving a small margin beyond the drawn lines. Following manufacturers instructions, apply to wrong side of appliqué fabric. Cut out on drawn line. Position appliqué on quilt where desired and fuse to quilt following manufacturer's instructions. Finish appliqué edges by machine using a buttonhole stitch, satin stitch or stitch of your choice.

MITERING CORNERS
Miter border corners when an angled seam complements the overall design of the quilt. Cut border strips the finished length and width of the quilt plus 4"-6" extra.

Center and pin border strips in place. Start and end seams ¼" from raw edges; backstitch to secure. Press seams toward quilt top. Lay quilt top right side up on ironing board and fold each border end flat back onto itself, right sides together, forming a 45 degree angle at the quilt's corner. Press to form sharp creases. Fold quilt on a diagonal, right sides together. Align border strip raw edges, border seams at the ¼" backstitched point and creases; pin in place. Stitch along crease, backstitching at ¼" border seam. Press seam open. With quilt right side up, align 45 degree angle line of square ruler on seamline to check accuracy. If corner is flat and square, trim excess fabric to ¼" seam allowance.

For multiple mitered borders, sew strips together first and attach to quilt as on unit.

MARKING QUILTING PATTERNS
Press quilt top and change any correctable irregularities. Choose a marking tool which makes a thin accurate line and pre-test removability on quilt fabric scraps.

Marking tool options include; water soluble and air erasable markers, white dressmaker's pencil, chalk pencils, chalk rolling markers and slivers of hardened soap. The same project may need several types of markers.

Design aid options include; freezer paper cutouts, stencils, templates, household items such as cookie cutters and acrylic rulers. After marking quilting designs of choice, do not press quilt top; markings could be set permanently.

BACKING
Use the same quality backing fabric as used in the quilt top. Remove selvages and cut backing at least 4" larger than quilt top on all sides. It is necessary to seam backing for quilts larger than 36"wide when using standard 40/42" wide fabric. Use either vertical or horizontal seaming, whichever requires less fabric. Press backing seams open.

BATTING
Standard pre-cut batting sizes are:

Crib: 45"x60"
Twin: 72"x90"
Double: 81"x96"
Queen: 90"x108"
King: 120"x120"

Consider several factors when choosing batting. How do you want the quilt to look? How close will the quilting stitches be? Are you hand or machine quilting? How will the quilt be used?

Batting is made from different fibers. If you prefer an old-fashioned looking quilt, consider using a mostly cotton batting. The newer cotton battings are bonded and do not require the close quilting that old-fashioned cotton battings once did. If you don't want to do a lot of quilting, use a regular or low-loft polyester batting.

If you are not sure which batting is right for your project, consult the professionals at your local Fabric & Home Bonanza store.

LAYERING THE QUILT SANDWICH
Mark the center of the backing on the wrong side at the top, bottom and side edges. On a smooth, flat surface a little larger than the quilt, place backing right side down. Smooth any wrinkles until the backing is flat; use masking tape to hold it taut and in place.

Unfold batting and lay over backing. Smooth wrinkles, keeping the backing wrinkle free.

Position quilt top on backing and batting, keeping all layers wrinkle free. Match centers of quilt top with backing. Use straight pins or quilters safety pins to keep layers from shifting while basting.

BASTING
Basting holds the three layers together to prevent shifting while quilting.
For hand quilting, baste using a long needle threaded with as long a length of sewing thread as can be used without tangling. Insert needle through all layers in center of quilt and baste layers together with a long running stitch. For the first line of basting, stitch up and down the vertical center of the quilt. Next, baste across the horizontal center of the quilt. Working toward the edges and creating a grid, continue basting to completely stabilize the layers.

For machine quilting, pin-baste using nickel-plated safety pins, instead of needle and thread. Begin in the center of the quilt and work outward to the edges, placing safety pins approximately every 4".

QUILTING
Hand Quilting
Hand quilting features evenly spaced, small stitches on both sides of the quilt with no knots showing on the backside.

Most quilters favor 100% cotton thread in ecru or white, though beautiful colors are available.

Beginners start with a size 8 or 9 "between" needle and advance to a shorter, finer size 10 or 12 needle for finer stitching. Use a well-fitting, puncture proof thimble on the middle finger of your sewing hand to position and push the needle through the quilt layers.

A frame or hoop keeps the layered quilt smooth and taunt; choose from a variety of shapes and sizes. Select a comfortable seat with proper back support and a good light source, preferably natural light, to reduce eye strain.

To begin, cut thread 24" long and make a knot on one end. Place the needle tip either into a seamline or ½" behind the point where quilting stitches are to begin and guide it through the batting and up through the quilt top to "bury" the knot. Gently pull on the thread until you hear the knot "pop" through the quilt top. Trim the thread tail.

To quilt using a running stitch, hold the needle parallel to the quilt top and stitch up and down through the three layers with a rocking motion, making several stitches at a time. This technique is called "stacking". Gently and smoothly pull the thread through the layers. To end, make a small knot and bury it in the batting.

Machine Quilting
Machine quilting requires an even-feed or walking foot to ensure quilting a straight stitch without distorting the layers and a darning foot for free motion or heavily curved stitching.

Use 100% cotton thread or size .004 nylon monofilament thread (clear for light colored fabrics, smoky for dark fabric) on top and cotton in the bobbin. Pre-test stitch length and thread tension using two muslin pieces layered with batting. Adjust as needed.

Choose a quilting strategy. Begin stitching in the middle and work outward, making sure the layers are taut. Roll the edges of the quilt compactly to reveal the area being quilted; re-roll as needed. To secure the thread, take 1 or 2 regular length stitches forward, backward and continue forward; stitch a few very small stitches and gradually increase to desired length. Trim thread tails.

Stitch "in the ditch" or along the seamline to secure quilt layers while adding subtle texture. Stitch open areas with a design of your choice.

MAKING BINDING STRIPS
Quilt binding can be cut on the bias or straight of grain. Use a continuous strip of bias for a quilt that will be used frequently or has scalloped edges and rounded corners. For bias or straight grain double fold binding, cut 2 ½" or 3" wide strips of fabric and fold in half, wrong sides together. Fabric binding tools and packaged fabric binding is available at your local Fabric & Home Bonanza store.

ATTACHING THE BINDING
Beginning near the middle of any side, align binding and quilt raw edges. Sew to the corner and stop stitching ¼" from the quilt edge; backstitch to secure (an even-feed foot is very helpful). Remove from sewing machine. Fold binding strip up and back down over itself, aligning raw edges on the second side and pin in place. Beginning ¼" from the quilt edge (same point where stitching stopped on the first side), sew binding to second side and stop stitching ¼" from next corner edge; backstitch. Remove from sewing machine and continue in the same manner. After sewing all sides, finish using the technique of your choice. Wrap binding around to the back side, using your fingers to manipulate each corner to achieve a miter on both front and back sides. Pin and bind stitch in place.

SIGNING YOUR QUILT
You will want to sign and date your quilt and record other information important to you, such as the quilt's name, your city and state, and the event the quilt commemorates. You may embroider or use permanent ink to record this information on a piece of fabric, which you then stitch to the quilt backing; or you may embroider directly on the quilt.

Decorating: Tiebacks

2008-01-26T10:36:00.000-08:00

Tiebacks, the finishing touch to your drapery treatment, can be constructed in various styles, ranging from Fishtail to Gatheredand Braided. Below, we will give you hints on how to construct these differentstyles and also use your own creativity. Tieback placement can vary justas their style will, ranging from very high placement allowing light in,to very low placement for a formal look. If you can't decide, place yourtieback hooks at two or three levels.

CONVENTIONAL TIEBACKS:

Conventional tiebacks are usually rectangular in shape, finishing at about 3"-4" in width and 27"-30" in length.

Folding right sides together, sew a lengthwise seam, leaving center 2" open for turning right side out.
Press open seam so it is now at the center back.
Turn raw edges in and press
For a Fishtail or fanned shape end, fold fabric and arrange like a fan, stitch to hold in place. This needs to be done only on one end, as the underside of the tieback will not show.

WELTED TIEBACKS

Should you want contrast welt on your regular tieback, enough bias welt should be made for the perimeter of your tieback, usually 60" to 72" does one tieback.

With right side up, machine stitch the welt in place on bottom half of tieback, raw edges facing out.
Place top and bottom, right sides together with welt in between. Follow around basting stitch, leaving a 2" space open for turning right side out
Press and hand close opening.

CONTOUR TIEBACKS

Contour tiebacks have a very graceful curve, which allows it to conform to the drapery when tied back. This curve can vary according to the side of the drapery.

It usually is best to have a paper pattern of this curve first. After your pattern has been adjusted, sew right sides together, leaving opening.
Turn right sides out and press.
This style can also have a welting as shown above.

JUMBO WELT TIEBACKS

A rather new style using #7 jumbo welt.

When constructing this welt it is not necessary to feed the welting thru a small pocket as done with a safety pin or the like. The pocket can actually be constructed along with the welt. Cut your welt at least double your desired length. Cut your 3" strip of fabric only a few inches longer than your desired length.
Start, right sides together, around the welt, working from the middle out. Stay stitch across the fabric in the middle of the tieback, this will become the end.
Sew the length of the tieback, allowing room for welt to move slightly.
Holding the fabric covered end of welt, pull the fabric down over the uncovered end of welt, turning it right side out.

JUMBO GATHERED WELT TIEBACKS

Jumbo gathered welt tiebacks use the same procedure as jumbo welt, only you cut your fabric 2 ½ to 3 times the desired finished length. *Hint-to save on welt, pull welt though as you stitch.

How-To: Tableskirts

2008-01-26T09:55:00.001-08:00

The skirted table is an important look in decorating today, a graceful accent to add beauty and elegance to any room whether contemporary or traditional.

It is engagingly versatile, whether skirted to match slipcovers in the living room, in the dining room for cozy meals or for note writing at the bedroom window.

Great looks can be had in choice of fabrics from formal silk to printed cottons or interesting textures, with your trimming adding additional accent and design interest.

A floor length can be textured solid with an overskirt of coordinated print. Reverse the look with a floor length in a favorite print and make a whole wardrobe of coordinated "toppers" in solid for a really versatile accent.

It is much easier than it looks! Just follow directions carefully; figure your measurements correctly; don't skimp on fabric and trimming and you will have a lovely result that will fit and fall perfectly.

Remember that almost any table can be turned into a circular one with the addition of a round top which is cut not too much larger than the original tabletop.

Fabric requirement is determined by size of cloth (diameter) and width of fabric. Fabric widths have to equal at least the diameter. Try to choose one to give as little waste as possible. However, any long pieces left from extra width can be used for matching chair pillows or a valance. Two widths of 48" make up to 94" in diameter. Three widths needed to make 103".

Materials:

Fabric Yardage

	36"	48"	52"
72" round	4 1/8	4 1/8	4 1/8
84" round	7	4 ¾	4 ¾
90" round	7 ½	5 1/8	5 1/8
100" round	9	9	6

Trimming Yardage

Easy rule is 3 ½ time cloth size (the diameter) which gives a few inches extra for safety, i.e. 84" x3 ½" =292". Divide this number by 36 to figure the amount of yards you will need: 292" / 36"=8 yards, 4".

Cloth Size	Trimming Required	Cloth Size	Trimming Required
44"	4 1/3 yards	72"	7 yards
48"	4 ¾ yards	84"	8 1/8 yards
52"	5 1/8 yards	90"	8 ¾ yards
60"	6 yards	103"	10 1/8 yards

Instructions:

For a floor length round table skirt, you must first take your table measurements-width of tabletop, then drop from top to floor on each side. This will give you the size needed and guide you
in fabric needed. Let's say:

Table 24" wide with 30" drop 24" + 30" + 30" = 84"
You will need a circle of fabric this large plus ½" for hem, which you will cut from a rectangle sewn using two 84 ½" length of 48" width fabric. 84 ½" x 2 (of 48) = 169" = 4yds +25" = 4 ¾ yards to buy One full width of fabric runs the entire center of table, including drop to floor on both sides. A second, equally long piece, is split and sewn to each side of full width (allow ½" for each seam). These seams will fall concealed in folds in finished cloth. Be sure to cut on grain and match pattern on side sections. Extra fabric might have to be allowed at times for unusual pattern matching.

Cut your first length to 84 ½". Split the remaining 84 ½" piece lengthwise on the grain. Sew side
pieces to center piece, matching pattern, if any. Press seams open. Working on large surface or floor, fold this fabric rectangle in half lengthwise, on which you will mark a semi-circle of 42 ¼".

Using a measuring tape as a compass or tie a string 42 ¼" long to a pencil. Find exact center of fabric on lengthwise fold; thumb-tack string or measuring tape in place; draw the half-circle.
Pin through the two layers of fabric and cut the semi-circle curve. Turn under, then press in ½" hem which you will zigzag. Sew close to edge and cut off any excess.

Add the final finish with trimming also applied with the zigzag stitch around the bottom edge or placed about 2" above finished hem to show detail against skirt color. You can also glue your
trimming with Fabri-Tac adhesive.

How-To: Reversible Table Runner

2008-01-26T09:55:00.000-08:00

Table runners help coordinate your room decor. Use a short runner as a center accent or one that dips off the side for a more formal look. Make it unique in your own way by adding tassels to the end points or welting or trimming in the seams. Can't decide whether to use a print or a solid? Lined runners are reversible, so you can change your look with just a flip! Also a great seasonal touch by using various themed patterns on either side. From Valentines Day to Christmas, a fun way to add a touch of the holidays. Any way you put it together, this table runner adds up to a hit!

TOOLS:

sewing machine
iron
ironing board
matching thread
yardstick
scissors
disappearing fabric marker or chalk
zipper foot
point turner (optional)

MEASURE:

Determine the desired finished length and width of your table runner. Add 1" to both measurements to allow for ½" seam allowances all around.
If you want to run from end to end of your table, consider an 8" to 10" drop length.
If you use the crosswise grain (runs perpendicular to selvages) for the length, the maximum length of the runner is 1" shorter than the width of your fabric. Cutting the table runner on the lengthwise grain (runs parallel to the selvages) allows you to make it any length, but wastes more fabric.
Welting or trimming, cut amount equal to slightly more than circumference of runner.

INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Mark and cut a rectangle for the front and repeat for the lining.
2. Fold the runner front in half lengthwise, aligning the cut edges; pin to keep the fabric from shifting. Mark a point 8 ½" from the end on the long cut edges. Draw a diagonal line from the mark on the side to the folded end corner. Carefully cut through both layers on the line, keeping the fabric edges aligned. This will give you a 45 degree point at the end.
3. Repeat step 2 on the opposite end of the runner. Remove the pins and unfold the runner. Using the runner as a guide/pattern, cut points at both ends of the lining.
4. To add welting, pin to the right side of the runner top along the outer edge, keeping the raw edges aligned. Keep the welting relaxed as you pin and crowd the welting slightly at the corners so that it will lie flat when it is turned to its final position. Plan for the ends to overlap along one long edge and leave tails unpinned.
5. Clip a notch into the seam allowance of the welting at each corner of the runner at the exact point where the welting must bend. Clip up to, but not through the stitching line, so that the welting seam allowances spread open and lie flat. Pin securely, keeping the raw edges of the welting and runner aligned.
6. Attach the zipper foot and adjust it to the right of the needle. Place the fabric under the presser foot 2" from the end of the welting. Stitch the welting to the fabric, stitching over the existing stitches in the welting.
7. When you reach a corner, stop and pivot the fabric so the stitching line of the welting on the next side is in line with the needle. Continue stitching around the runner.
8. Stop stitching 2" from the point where the ends of the welting will meet. Cut off the end of the welting so it overlaps the beginning end by 1". Remove the stitching from the overlapping end of the welting, exposing the inner cording. Trim the end of the cording so it just meets the other end.
9. Fold under ½" of the fabric on the overlapping end of the welting. Wrap it around the beginning and finish stitching it to the runner, overlapping the stitches ½" where they meet.
10. Press along the stitching line with the tip of your iron to relax the fabric and set the seam. Check that the fabric does not ripple or draw up where you have attached the welting.
11. Pin the front over the lining, right sides together, encasing the welting between the layers and aligning the outer edges. Leave about a 7" opening unpinned along one side, so you will be able to turn the fabric through to its final position later.
12. Place the table runner under the zipper foot, Lining Side Down; this way, the stitches previously made to adhere the welting to the top are exposed to your view. You will follow this stitch line and actually stitch over these stitches to attach the lining to the top. This second stitching line must be exactly over the first stitching line or slightly closer to the welting, so that the first stitching line does not show after the runner is turned right side out. Remember to leave about 7" open and backstitch at each sides of your opening to reinforce. Pivot at corners and points, with the needle in the down position, through the fabric.
13. Trim the seam allowances diagonally at each corner, to form a smother corner when the piece is turned right side out. Turn back and press the seam allowance to the wrong side ½" from the edge in the unstitched area.
14. Reach in through the unstitched opening to grasp an end of the runner and pull it through the opening. Repeat for the other end, turning the runner right side out.
15. Push out the corner from the inside, using a point turner if necessary. Slipstitch the opening closed and press.

Decorating: All About Trims

2008-01-26T09:28:00.000-08:00

Decorative trims can transform even the most ordinary fabric into extraordinary and exciting. Trims accent shapes and colors to make the entire ensemble more visually appealing.

The term "trims" actually includes ruffles, piping, banding, fringe, braids, cords and tassels made for ornamental embellishment. Fabric & Home Bonanza has an array of trim styles to coordinate with your fabric and enhance your project.

When it comes to adding an embellishment to a project, consider these advantages when adding trims:

Trims add a custom, one-of-a kind design element.
Trims enhance the visual or aesthetic appeal. Home decor projects come to life when trims are added.
The perceived value increases when decorative trims are included.

CHOOSING TRIMS

Choose a trim that's similar in weight to the fabric. A trim that's too heavy can stretch and distort a window treatment.

Decorative trims are manufactured in many fibers. Rayon is a formal accent providing vibrant colors, durability and colorfastness. Trims made from cotton fibers have a matte finish, lending a more casual appearance. Beaded trims make a trendy choice and may be used in a formal or casual setting. Decorative trims are usually dry-cleaned and should be avoided if you plan to launder the item.

Use the color of the selected trim for the desired emphasis. A trim in a contrasting color to the fabric will give a dramatic look, picking a secondary color within the fabric can show a subtle accent. Multi-colored thread may be mingled as the trim design, use these styles to enhance a multi-colored print or introduce your accent or coordinating colors to the treatment. Simply remember that trim looks more sophisticated if it doesn't stand out too loudly in its combination.

FRINGE PROPERTIES

Fringe offers an opportunity to add different colors to your decorating scheme while adding visual interest with a myriad of textures. Use fringe along the lower edge of top treatments, the lower edges of a tieback, along the inside edge of floor-length curtains or down both sides of cascades.

Bullion Fringe can be long or short, heavy of lightweight. It's constructed as one continuous set of threads twisted and looped into fringes. Bullion fringe is replacing ruffles on many window treatments. It looks fabulous along the lower edge of a balloon shade or swag and a dramatic edge accent to rectangular pillows. Insert it into seams or if the insertion edge is attractive, attach it to the surface for added dimension.

Brush Fringe looks like a soft, fluffy brush. A row of protective chain stitching controls the fringe lower edge during application. This is why fringe often doesn't look like fringe on the store shelf. Leave the chain stitching attached until you've completed the project, then remove it by pulling on one of the threads. Use brush fringe in the same places you'd use a bullion fringe, but for a more casual look.

Loop Fringe is similar to brush fringe, except the ends are looped, not cut. It can be top stitched or inserted into the seams.

Tassel Fringe has small tassels attached to a flat decorative gimp edge that serves as its seam allowance. Insert the gimp edge into a seam so only the tassels show or topstitch it on the surface of the window treatment. If you use it as a surface detail, topstitch each edge of the gimp to secure it. Tassel fringe adds instant elegance to any project.

Ball Fringe has been gaining in popularity as a new home decorator trim. It has small balls attached to a flat gimp edge that serves as its seam allowance. The balls can be a simple pom-pom style or fancy style, such as beaded, lending its use from traditional to contemporary rooms. Use it as you would any fringe; it even makes an extraordinary accent on pillows.

Beaded fringe has a flat twill tape edge that must be inserted into a seam. While stitching, take care to prevent beads from flipping into your stitching path. Hitting a bead can break the needle. Beaded trims are a very popular accent to lampshades large and small. Simply glue the twill tape edge to the inside lower edge of the shade with fabric glue. Beaded fringe are a quick way to give antique chandeliers an updated look with mini shade coverings.

BASIC TRIMS

Cord has no attached seam allowance or lip edge and comes in many diameters, colors and textures. Use it to tie back a curtain, create loops for tab-top curtains or embellish a surface where there is no seam. Cord can be attached with tiny hand stitches or with fabric glue.

Cord edge is cord with an attached seam allowance or "lip". Machine stitch the lip into the seams with the cord face in or toward the outside. This is an easy way to add an accent to plain edge pillows. Use it alone or layer it with other trims for spectacular results.

Gimp is a flat trim finished on both edges. Stitch or glue gimp on top and bottom edges as a surface detail to add interesting texture. Gimps add interest when mitered into banding on edges of window treatments and pillows. It's also used to finish the inside edges of cornices.

How-To: Make a Shower Curtain

2008-01-25T15:02:00.001-08:00

SELECTING THE FABRIC AND HARDWARE

Add a fresh new look to your bathroom with a new, colorful decorative shower curtain! Our Home Decorating Department offers a large selection of fabrics ideal for this purpose. Any of our decorator cotton prints, solids or stripes can be used.

Or try one of our new laminated fabrics. These fabrics are perfect for you bathroom and since the face of the fabric is laminated, your curtain will receive additional protection against splashes.

Some tips on sewing with laminated fabric:

Use paper clips to hold the fabric when folding the seams under as you sew. Using pins will poke holes!

Put tissue paper under the fabric to allow it to slide through your machine easier!

We suggest you use a purchased shower liner to protect all fabrics!

DETERMINING HOW MUCH FABRIC YOU WILL NEED

A standard shower curtain measures 72'x72". The chart below gives you the yardage for a standard curtain using 45" or 54" fabric.

You will need:

Solids- 4 ½ yards

Prints- 4 ½ yards + 1 pattern repeat

LET'S MAKE A BUTTONHOLE SHOWER CURTAIN

Cutting you fabric: Cut the fabric into 80" lengths or to your own specific cut length to give you the correct finished length. Allow 8" extra to give you a double 1" top hem and
a double 3" bottom hem.

Sewing the panel together: Place the right sides of your fabric together. Sew the center seam, using a ½" seam allowance along the selvage edge. Press seam open.

Hemming the Fabric: Turn the side edges under ½' then ½" again and hem. For top and bottom hems, turn the top edge under 1" then 1" again and hem. Turn the bottom edge
under 3" then 3" again and hem. Drapery weights can be used to keep shower curtain hem in place outside the tub.

Lay your purchased shower liner on your new shower curtain and line up the edges. Mark the spot where the buttonholes will need to be to match the holes on the purchased liner. Be sure to make your buttonholes vertical.

How-To: Draped Swags

2008-01-25T14:54:00.000-08:00

Very little sewing is required to achieve this elegant decorator look. The key is in the selection of fabric. Many laces already have decorative selvages. Sheers come in widths ranging from 48" to 60" and appear to be reversible, which you can use to your advantage.

By simply draping fabric, you can achieve a multitude of looks from casual to formal. The possibilities are endless; layer multiple swags of various textures or tones at different lengths, add beaded trimming to the hems, puddle the fabric on to the floor, weave cording around your swag or rod, form rosettes at the corners, drape along side tassels, etc. You are limited only to your imagination!

SUPPLIES:

Decorative curtain rod or swag holders-of your choice

plus tools & hardware for installation

Fabric-as determined by your measurements

TOOLS:

matching thread

sewing machine

iron

ironing board

straight pins

cord or string

yard stick

fabric marker or chalk

INSTRUCTIONS:

Mount the rod above the window frame, making sure you give enough clearance from the window frame to the rod finials or mount your swag holders accordingly. Drape a cord in the path you want the lower edge of the swag to follow. Cut the fabric panel to this length.

Press under 1" on one end of swag panel.

Unfold the pressed edge. Turn the cut edge back, aligning it to the first fold line; press the outer fold.

Re-fold the edge along the pressed fold lines, encasing the raw edge to form a ½" double-fold hem. Pin the hem.

Place the hem under the presser foot, with the wrong side of the panel facing up and the needle aligned to enter the fabric just inside the inner fold. Stitch the entire length.

Drape the swag panel over the rod, using the photograph as a guide. Mark the unstitched end at the desired location for the opposite hem.

Remove the swag and cut 1" longer than the mark. Repeat steps 2 to 5 to form a ½" double fold hem.

Fanfold the entire finished panel into gentle pleats of consistent depth. Tie or tack the folded fabric at regular intervals. Drape the folded panel over the rod and arrange the folds. You may use double stick tape to secure your swags in lew of or in addition to tacking.

Badget Decorating: Placemats & Napkins

2008-01-25T14:51:00.000-08:00

You don't have to invest a lot of time and money to create an elegant table setting! With a little fabric and minimal skills, you can alter a room's mood, add seasonal accents or coordinate your home décor.

OVAL PLACEMATS

Supplies for 4 Placemats:

¾ yard double-faced quilted fabric

2 pkgs. Wide, double fold bias tape

Instructions:

Cut four 13"x18" rectangle. Using a dinner plate as a guide, draw the curved corners with a temporary marking pen. Trim on the marked line.

Machine baste ½" from the edge. Then before applying the bias tape, use a steam iron to shape it into curves. Beginning at one side, slip the raw edge of the placemat between the
folds of the binding; pin and machine stitch permanently. To finish the end, fold under ½" and overlap the ends ½".

EASY, RECTANGULAR PLACEMATS

Supplies for 4 Placemats:

1 ½ yards 45" wide fabric

1 ½ yards 22" wide nonwoven fusible interfacing

Instructions:

From the fabric, cut eight 13" x 19" rectangle. From the interfacing, cut four 12 ½" x 18 ½" rectangles.

Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of four fabric rectangles.

To shape the corners, mark a point on each side 3" from the corner; draw a line to connect the two marked points and trim on the marked line.

Right sides together, join one interfaced section and one plain section with a ½" seam, leaving 4" open on one long side

Turn the placemats right side out and press. When pressing, be sure the folded edges along the unstitched section are aligned.

Edgestitch all edges, securing the unstitched section when you stitch and press.

NAPKINS

Supplies:

1 yard of fabric

Instructions:

Cut four 18' squares

Finish the napkin edges with an overlock machine,
a narrow hem or a satin stitch.

To satin stitch the edge, use an embroidery foot
and set the machine for a very short stitch and a medium width (W-2,
l-5). Fold the edge under ½", center the folded edge under
the foot and satin stitch the edge.

Using small, sharp scissors-trim the satin stitched
edge, then stitch the adjacent edge. Repeat until all edges are finished.

How-To: Colonial Festoon

2008-01-25T14:47:00.000-08:00

This window treatment will look lovely over shades, blinds, draperies and sheers. It has the look of swags and jabots, but is much easier to construct and less expensive. It is a completely reversible trapezoid shaped treatment that is folded and draped over post-type drapery holdbacks. Please note that this treatment works best on smaller windows. Do not use a fabric that has a definite one way design.

Instructions:

Mount your rod (or holdbacks in the top corners) on your window frame.

Measure the distance between your rod ends (hold backs) and add 10" for your swag.

Measure your desired length of cascade and times it by two, then add your seam measurement to that total.

Add the totals from instruction #2 and instruction #3 for your total length measurement.

Cut one lining and one decorator fabric and then trim your selvage edges.

Place your right sides together and pin. Stitch ½" seam leaving 6" open on the long straight edge. Press and turn right side out.

Slip stitch your opening closed.

Make four 5" pleats across your fabric.

Lay the festoon over the rod ends (or hold backs) long straight edge next to the frame. Gently pull the center to create a swag effect.

How-To: Austrian Shades

2008-01-25T14:38:00.000-08:00

MEASURING

To determine amount of fabric needed, first measure window width. Decide how many scallops you want and how wide they need to be to cover the window. (Scallop should not be over 12" wide).

Width:

Measure width of window
Multiply # of scallops x 3" or 4"
Add 3" for side seams
TOTAL WIDTH

Note: Be sure to allow 1" extra for each seam if fabric must be seamed to achieve necessary width.

Length:

For sheers: Window length x 3=			in.
For opaques: Window length x 2=			in.

Note:
for mounting, decide if your desired finished length is at upper corner of scallop arch or bottom loop of scallop arch (the scallop bottom hangs down about 3" longer than upper corner).

MATERIALS NEEDED

Fabric and Lining: The cutting width of your shade may exceed the width of your fabric. You will need to seam panels together before you cut the final width. Cutting width of shade divided by the fabric width = numbers of panels needed. (Round up to the nearest whole number.) To determine how much fabric you need, multiply the number of panels by the finished cutting length. If your fabric repeats a printed deign periodically, you will need to add the length of the repeat for each panel to ensure you have enough
fabric to match that design at panel seams.

Austrian Shade Tape (style 183 9013 030): equal to measured length of fabric x number of scallops desired (plus one more additional scallop length). To determine number of rows/scallops needed, plan a row of tape at each edge of shade and to be approximately 10"-12" apart. Divide the width of the window by 10-12, round up to the nearest whole number. Note: always buy a little extra, so you can lay out rings symmetrically.

3/8" Metal Rod or Dowel:
Cut ½" shorter than width for weight bar

Mounting Board: 1"
x 2" thick, cut to equal finished width of shade minus ¼".

Metal Screw Eyes (style 183 9044 070): equal to number of rows of ring tape

Polyester cord (style 183 9032 030): (2x cutting length of shade + cutting width of shade) x number of determined rows.

Angle Irons (style 183 9034 070):
and/or screws for mounting board.

Cord Cleat (style 183 9046 001)

TOOLS NEEDED:

straight pins

matching thread

sewing machine

scissors

yard stick

iron

ironing board.

CONSTRUCT SHADE

Follow ½" seam allowances

Seam fabric panels together to achieve cutting width. Use French seams on sheer fabrics. Press 1 ½" hems on sides and bottom. Stitch bottom hem.

Cut lengths of Austrian shade tape, one more than the number of scallops. Knot the ends of the cords so they cannot pull out. Place tapes on shade, placing the top ring of each tape 1 ½" down from top of fabric and one tape on each side over side hems. Keep and extra 1" of tape extending at bottom. Pin tapes to shade- be sure rings are even and parallel.

Sew on tapes over side hems and on body of shade. Turn up the extra 1" at bottom and sew into loops for weight bar. (Your lines of stitching need not be perfect, since they will all disappear into the gathers).

Since you have allowed up to 4" extra for each scallop, the shade will be much wider at the top than the window. Pin and tack tucks at top on each side of the tapes until you have eliminated the extra width at top.

A 3/8" metal rod or dowel will supply the weight for the shade. The weight is needed to help the shade operate smoothly. To help hold it securely in the loops at the bottom of the shade, first wrap the rod in fabric. For fabric cover for metal rod, cut coordinating
fabric 2 ½" wide and 1" longer than the rod. With right sides together, seam one short and long end of fabric. Turn to right side. Insert rod and stitch end closed. Insert covered rod into tape loops. Tack loops to fabric covered rod to hold.

Pull the two knotted cords in each tape to gather the shade to the exact length of the window. Knot the cords to prevent gathers from slipping. Do Not Cut The Cords! Note:
When cleaning time comes, you can untie them and flatten the shade for easy handling. Make sure all rings are still even across the shade after gathering. To help even out the gathers and give them a more uniform look, it helps to grasp them on each side of the ring tape and give a firm tug.

MOUNT BOARD AND SHADE

You may want to cover mounting board with shade fabric before proceeding; this gives a more finished look. Attach screw eyes to underside of mounting board, directly in line with each row of ring tape.

In equal lengths, cut polyester cord to equal number of rows or ring tape. Tie cord to bottom of ring tape. Thread cord up through all rings in that row. Thread cord up through screw eye at top of that row. Thread cord through screw eye at top of row and through
screw eyes to one side of shade. Repeat for each row of ring tape. With shade flat, knot cords together just outside last screw eye. Knot cords again approximately ¾ of the way down length of shade.

Mount board. For inside mount: mount board to window molding at top with screws or angle irons. For outside mount: mount board to wall above window with angle irons.

Install clear cord cleat to window molding at a comfortable height. Twist cords around cleat to anchor when shade is lifted.

How-To: Shirred Balloon Shade

2008-01-25T14:25:00.000-08:00

MEASURE WINDOW

For inside mount: Measure length of window from inside molding at top to sill. Measure width of window between side moldings.

For outside mount: Measure length of window from location of mounting board to sill. Measure width of window to outside edges of side moldings.

DETERMINE CUTTING LENGTH AND WIDTH

Cutting width of shade will be 2-3 times wider than finished shade measurements plus 1" for side seams. For heavier width fabrics, multiply shade width by 2 or 2 ½ . For lighter weight fabrics multiply by 2 ½ or 3.

Cutting length of shade will be finished length of shade plus 1" for top and bottom hems.

MATERIALS NEEDED

Fabric and Lining: The cutting width of your shade may exceed the width of your fabric. You will need to seam panels together before you cut the final width.

Cutting width of Balloon shade divided by the fabric width = numbers of panels needed. (Round up to the nearest whole number.)

To determine how much fabric you need, multiply the number of panels by the finished cutting length.

If your fabric repeats a printed deign periodically, you will need to add the length of the repeat for each panel to ensure you have enough fabric to match that design at panel seams. If possible, purchase enough fabric to camouflage seams by placing along ring tape stitching and possibly under decorative trim.

Snap Tape (style 183 9016 030):
equal to measured width of window or length of mounting board.
Note: always buy a little extra, so you can lay out snaps symmetrically.Ring Tape (style 183 9014 030): equal to: (cutting length of shade plus 5") x number of rows needed. Note: always buy a little extra, so you can lay out rings symmetrically.

To determine number of rows needed, plan a row of tape at each edge of shade and to be approximately 10" apart after header is shirred. This means if your finished shade is to have 2 ½ to 1 fullness, tape lines will be 25" apart before shirring. Divide cutting width of shade by 25, round up to the nearest whole number.

Polyester Cord (style 183 9032 030): (2x cutting length of shade + cutting width of shade) x number of determined rows.

4 Cord Shirring Tape (style 183 9019 030): Cutting width of shade plus 5".

Decorative Trim: Cutting width of shade (optional).

Mounting Board: 1" thick, cut to equal finished width of shade minus ¼" x 2" wide.

3/8" Metal Rod or Dowel:
Cut ½" shorter than width of window.

Angle Irons (style 183 9034 070)
and/or screws for mounting board.

Metal Screw Eyes (style 183 9044
070): equal in number to rows of ring tape.

Cord Cleat (style 183 9046 001)

TOOLS NEEDED:

straight pins

matching thread

sewing machine

scissors

yard stick

T-square

zipper foot

iron

ironing board

CONSTRUCT SHADE

Follow ½" seam allowances

Seam fabric panels together if necessary to achieve cutting width. Cut fabric and lining to equal cutting width and length. With right sides together, pin fabric to lining at long side edges. The shade must be a perfect rectangle (you may use a T-square to check
for square corners.)

Stitch side and top seams. Press seams open. Do not turn to right side.

With right sides together, stitch bottom seam leaving a small opening to turn. Turn shade to right side. Slip stitch opening closed. Press all edges.

Turn up 2" on bottom edge, stitch and press. Top stitch optional trim along fold at this time.

Pin ring tape to lining side of shade vertically along side edge and evenly spaced throughout width of shade. Cut and position each tape so bottom ring is 1" above folded hem (leave
an additional 3" of tape extending below bottom ring). Check periodically to ensure all rings across width of shade are parallel.

Fold up ¼" then 1" of tape extension to create a loop to hold rod. Stitch across top of loops.

Using a zipper foot, stitch long side edges of tapes through lining and fabric.

Clip off any rings located within 5" of top shade.

Position 4 cord shirring tape horizontally, 1" down from top edge of shade. Using a straight pin, pick out cords at least 2" from each end and knot cords together. Trim shirring tape
(not cords) to measure ½" wider than width of curtain on each side.

Turn under ½" on each end of shirring tape, even with side of shade. Pin tape to shade.

Using a zipper foot, stitch shirring tape to shade on all edges and 1/8" above and below each of the cords. Avoid stitching freed cord ends.

Draw cords, shirring evenly, to finished width of window or mounting board. Knot cord ends securely. Trim cord ends.

Separate snap tape and pin one side to top of shade above shirring tape, centering snaps on shade and turning under ½" on both ends. Stitch all edges of snap tape through all thicknesses.

Optional: For fabric cover for metal rod or dowel, cut coordinating fabric 2" wide x length of rod + 1". With right sides together, seam one short and long end of fabric. Turn to
right side. Insert rod and stitch end closed. Insert covered rod into tape loops. Tack loops to fabric covered rod to hold.

MOUNTING BOARD AND SHADE

Staple remaining side of snap tape to narrow edge of mounting board, centering snaps and turning under ½" on both ends. Snap shade in place.

Insert screw eyes to bottom of board, side adjacent to snap tape, directly in line with each row of ring tape.

In equal lengths, cut polyester cord to equal number of rows of ring tape. Tie cord to bottom ring of ring tape. Thread cord up through all rings in that row. Thread cord through screw eye at top of tow and through screw eyes to one side of shade. Repeat for each
row of ring tape. Wide shade flat, knot cords together just outside last screw eye. Knot cords again approximately ¾ of the way down length of shade.

Mount Board. For inside mount: Mount board to window molding at top with screws or angle irons. For outside mount: Mount board to wall above window with angle irons.

Install cleat to window molding at a comfortable height. Twist cords around cleat to anchor.

How-To: Pinch Pleat Curtains

2008-01-25T14:14:00.000-08:00

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING PERFECT CURTAINS

In order to achieve the desired look for your window treatment a few initial decisions and measurements must be made.

MEASURING

Accurate measurements are essential for a professional look. You will need to measure the exact area that the window treatment will cover. This
could be floor to ceiling, wall to wall; or from just above the window frame to just below the sill with the width just outside the window frame. These are personal decisions determined by the look you want to achieve with your window treatment.

Decide on where you want the top of the curtain to be and measure down to the desired length of the finished curtain. Most window treatments will look best with, at least, a double three inch bottom hem and a double four inch header at the top. To determine the cutting length of each panel add 6 inches for the bottom hem and 8 inches for the header to the desired finished length of your curtain.

For example:

Window length is 40"

+ double 3" hem 6"

+ double 4" hem 8"

54" Length of Panel

Certain fullness is determined by your tape. Each tape is designed to give a specific fullness when the cords are drawn. To determine the width of fabric for the panel, take the finished window width (including the rod returns and/or overlaps) and multiply by the fullness of the tape, then add 4" for a double 1" hem on either side of the panel. For example:

Window treatment width is 36"

Curtain tape is 2 ½ to1 fullness

36" x 2 ½ =90", add 4" for side hems-for a total of 94" needed for width of fabric for single panel treatment such as a valance or a one way draw curtain.

For center draw curtains, the same procedure would apply, but a total of 8" would be added for the side hems (double 1" hem each side of both panels)

The cutting width of your curtain may exceed the width of your fabric. You will need to seam panels together before you cut the final width.

Cutting width of the curtain divided by the fabric width = numbers of panels needed. (Round up to the nearest whole number.) To determine how much fabric you need, multiply the number of panels by the finished cutting length.

If your fabric repeats a printed design periodically, you will need to add the length of the repeat for each panel to ensure you have enough fabric to match that design at panel seams.The fabric width measurement that you have determined will be the measurement you will use for purchasing the curtain tape that you will need. Always buy a little extra, so that you can lay out your pleats symmetrically, ie. pleats begin and end at edge of panels. Unless absolutely unavoidable, you do not want to have half a pleat at the opening edge of your curtain, for instance.

ASSEMBLY:

Cut and piece fabric to achieve the measurements that you have worked out. Remember to trim off fabric selvages.

Press to Wrong side 1", then over 1" again on the Length of each side of panel to form 1" double side hem. Stitch.

Press to Wrong side 4", then over 4" again on Top of curtain to form a 4" double header and pin in place.

Place the curtain tape, with the pastel marking line Visible On The Face, And At The Top Edge Of The Tape, on your header. Fold under raw edge on starting end and secure draw cords with knots to prevent cords from being pulled out when you are forming the pleats.

Pin end even with the side hem on the Wrong side of the curtain and down from the top of the header the desired distance.

On the other side edge, fold under about 1" of the curtain tape and stitch down, to prevent fraying, being careful not to catch the draw cords in your stitching.

Pin curtain tape in place along the length of the header to keep it from shifting when you sew.

Stitch the curtain tape to the header along the top of tape, being careful not to catch the draw cords in your stitching. Stitch again along the bottom edge, always stitching in the same direction. You may want to add additional stitching lines in the body of the tape.
This will depend on the design of the tape, the weight of your fabric and the look you are trying to achieve.

To achieve the best results when drawing the cords, use someone's assistance to keep the fabric taunt while you draw the cords. Hold the cords in one hand, while you move the fabric along the cords. Do Not Force the pleats. The curtain tape forms the pleat. When
the cords that sit on the surface of the tape disappear into the pleat without puckering, you have successfully attained the perfect pleat. Knot the cords securely, close to the last pleat, and either cut off the excess cord or wrap it, so that you can release the knots later
for ease in laundering.

Insert your hooks into the tapes and hang your curtains.

Always pin the hem of your curtains after they are hung to ensure that the hem will be even and the length will be perfect. Remember that you have allowed for a double 3" hem (an extra 6").

Remove curtains from rods, stitch hem and re-hang.

**HELPFUL HINTS FOR USING PINCH PLEAT TAPES**

The pinch pleat tapes (style 145-2008-001: 2 to 1 ½ to fullness & style 145-2009-001: 3 to 1 fullness) should be sewn on in the same manner as all the wider tapes; along the top and in the bottom edges of the tapes, and once or twice in between. To create a decorator look, we
suggest that after you created the pleats, tack each pleat at the bottom, either by hand or machine. This will give your header a real custom look.

**HELPFUL HINTS FOR USING NARROW CURTAIN TAPES**

Two cord shirring tape (style 145-2004-001) and mini-pleat (style 145-2005-001) are best used in shorter curtains (63" or shorter). They also are best applied by sewing along the top and bottom edge of the tape, with the tape at least ½" from the top edge of the curtain header.

How-To: Roman Shades

2008-01-25T13:06:00.000-08:00

ROMAN SHADES

MEASURE WINDOW
For inside mount: Measure length of window from inside molding at top to sill. Measure width of window between side moldings.

For outside mount: Measure length of window from location of mounting board to sill. Measure width of window to outside edges of side moldings. These measurements will determine finished length and width of shade.

DETERMINE CUTTING LENGTH AND WIDTH

Cutting width of shade will be 1" wider than
finished shade measurements.

Cutting length of shade will be 3" longer than
finished shade measurements.

MATERIALS NEEDED

Fabric and Lining: The cutting width of your shade may exceed the width of your fabric. You will need to seam panels together before you cut the final width. Cutting width of Roman shade divided by the fabric width = numbers of panels needed. (Round up to the nearest whole number.)

To determine how much fabric you need, multiply the number of panels by the finished cutting length.

If your fabric repeats a printed deign periodically, you will need to add the length of the repeat for each panel to ensure you have enough fabric to match that design at panel seams. If possible, purchase enough fabric to camouflage seams by placing along ring tape stitching and possibly under decorative trim.

Snap Tape (style 183 9016 030):
equal to length of mounting board plus 3". Note: always buy a little extra, so you can lay out snaps symmetrically.

Polyester Cord (style 183 9032 030): (2x cutting length of shade + cutting width of shade) x number of determined rows.

Decorative Trim: equal to the finished length of shade x number of rows desired (optional).

Mounting Board: 1" x 2" thick, cut to equal finished width of shade minus ¼".

Metal Rod or Dowel: Cut ½" shorter than width of shade.

Angle Irons (style 183 9034 070) and/or screws for mounting board.

Metal Screw Eyes (style 183 9044 070): equal in number to rows

Cord Cleat (style 183 9046 001)

TOOLS NEEDED:

straight pins

matching thread

sewing machine

scissors

yard stick

T-square

zipper foot

iron

ironing board

fabric glue

pencil or fabric chalk.

CONSTRUCT SHADE USING RING TAPE

Additional Materials:

Ring Tape (style 183 9014 030):
equal to: (cutting length of shade plus 5") x number of rows needed.
Note: always buy a little extra, so you can lay out rings symmetrically.

To determine number of rows needed, plan a row of tape at each edge of shade and to be approximately every 10" in between. Divide width of window by 10, round up to the nearest whole number.

Follow ½" seam allowances

Seam fabric panel together if necessary, to achieve cutting width. Cut fabric and lining to equal cutting width and length. With right side together, pin fabric to lining at long side edges. The shade must be a perfect rectangle, check for square corners with a T-square
at this time.

Stitch top and side seams. Press seams open. Do not turn to right side.

With right sides together, stitch bottom seam leaving a small opening to turn. Turn shade to right side. Slip stitch opening closed. Press all edges.

Turn up 2" on bottom edge and press.

Pin ring tape to lining side of shade vertically along side edges and evenly spaced throughout width of shade. Cut and position each tape so bottom ring is 1" above folded hem and tape extends 1" into hem. Check periodically with T-square to ensure all rings across width of shade are parallel.

Using a zipper foot, stitch long side edges of tapes through lining and fabric. Instead of stitching tape edges down, you may prefer to zig zag over each ring catching it through shade and lining. This makes the thread less noticeable and reduces chances of puckering
or pulling of shade fabric. Lightly mark vertical position of the tapes. Run a thin line or rows of dots of fabric glue along the lines just marked. Align rings and press the tapes in place. Secure with pins.

Stitch hemmed bottom edge of shade catching tape ends in stitching. Slip rod into hem. Pin, mark and stitch a second row of stitching, measuring evenly from folded edge to hold rod pocket firmly.

Separate snap tape and pin one side to top of shade over edges of ring tape, centering snaps on shade and turning under ½" on both ends. Stitch all edges of snap tape through all thicknesses.

Staple remaining side of snap tape to narrow edge of mounting board, centering snaps and tuning under ½" on both ends. Snap shade in place. You may want to cover mounting board with shade fabric before applying snap tape. This gives a more finished
look.

Attach screw eyes to underside of board, directly in line with each row of ring tape.

In equal lengths, cut polyester cord for each row of ring tape. Tie polyester cord to bottom ring of ring tape. Thread cord up through all rings in that row. Thread cord through screw eye at top of row and through screw eyes to one side of shade. Repeat for each row of ring tape. With shade flat, knot cords together just outside last screw eye. Knot cords again approximately ¾ of the way down length of shade.

Mount board. For inside mount: mount board to inside of window molding at top with screws or angle irons. For outside mount: mount board to wall above window with angle irons.

Install cleat to window molding at a comfortable height. Twist cords around cleat to anchor when shade is lifted.

CONSTRUCT SHADE USING TUBE TAPE

Roman Shade Tube Tape is a unique product that allows you to stitch the tape on horizontally, rather than vertically; therefore stitching in the same direction as your folds, reinforcing and stabilizing the folds (or pleats).

Additional Materials:

Tube Tape (style 1451002):
equal to: (cutting width of shade plus 1") x number of rows desired.
Note: always buy a little extra, so you can lay out symmetrically.

To determine number of rows needed, plan a row of tape horizontally starting approximately 2" from the bottom and ending about 3" from the bottom with approximately 6" to 8" in between folds. (See below for details)

Additional Wooden Dowels: Cut ½" shorter than width of shade. Quantity depends on number of folds desired.

Follow ½" seam allowances

Seam fabric panel together if necessary, to achieve cutting width. Cut fabric and lining to equal cutting width and length. With right side together, pin fabric to lining at long side edges. The shade must be a perfect rectangle, check for square corners with a T-square at this time.

Stitch top and side seams. Press seams open. Do not turn to right side.

With right sides together, stitch bottom seam leaving a small opening to turn. Turn shade to right side. Slip stitch opening closed. Press all edges.

To use tube tape, measure the desired distance between folds (usually 6 to 8 inches, depending on how deep you want your folds to be). Mark the location of the folds horizontally, starting 2" up from the bottom and ending about 3" from the top. Make sure that your spacing is exactly equidistant and lines are parallel all the way up.

Place the tube tape on the lines that you have marked and pin. Make sure that the finished edge is at the top with the tube or pocket is at the bottom edge with the cord guides or pockets facing out.

It is important that all the loops be exactly in line with the loops on the tape lines above and below them. Make sure all pins are secure.

Stitch the rows of tape down close to the upper edges leaving ½" loose at either end, so that the raw ends can be turned under and slipstitched to shade.

Once you have slipstitched your ends closed, you insert the wood dowels into the tube pocket. For ease of insertion and removal of the dowels for laundering there are slits in the tube at the bottom edge. Simply slip the dowel in through the slit closest to the edge.

Separate snap tape and pin one side to top of shade over edges of ring tape, centering snaps on shade and turning under ½" on both ends. Stitch all edges of snap tape through all thicknesses

Staple remaining side of snap tape to narrow edge of mounting board, centering snaps and tuning under ½" on both ends. Snap shade in place. You may want to cover mounting board with shade fabric before applying snap tape. This gives a more finished look.

To "string" your shade, tie the first length of polyester cord to a cord guide or loop on the bottom row of roman shade tube tape and approximately 1" in from the long edge. Run the cord through the corresponding cord guides all the way to the top of the shade. Continue this process, going across the shade, spacing the cords approximately 10" apart (or whatever works best for shade's dimensions) ending with the last cord line 1" in from the edge.

Attach screw eyes to underside of mounting board, directly in line with each cord line and run the cord through the screw eyes. With shade flat, knot cords together just outside the last screw eye. Knot cords again approximately ¾ of the way down length of shade.

Mount board. For inside mount: mount board to inside of window molding at top with screws or angle irons. For outside mount: mount board to wall above window with angle irons.

Install cleat to window molding at a comfortable height. Twist cords around cleat to anchor when shade is raised.

Decorating: Covered Cornice

2008-01-25T12:53:00.000-08:00

Topping off your window treatment with a cornice not

only adds an elegant finishing touch, it can also camouflage hardware
or unify a layered window treatment. Cornices do not always look like
a box or require a master carpenter. A cornice can be constructed from
wood or heavy foam board.

To determine your cornice height, consider the height
of your room, as well as the length of your window covering. The total
window treatment will be well proportioned if you figure the face height
of your cornice as 1/6 to 1/8 of your window treatment.

Supplies:

1" thick wood or plywood

Hammer / Nails

Glue Gun & Sticks or White Glue

Foam or Batting

Staple Gun/ Staples

Angle Irons

Fabric

Trim

Instructions:

Top Board:

Measure the width & depth of the area to be covered & cut top dust cover.

Side boards:

Your side dimension will be determined by your treatment underneath your cornice. Remember, you must allow for pleats or shades to move freely-usually 4" to 8". Attach side boards to top board with nails or angle irons.

Face boards:

Cut the face board to fit the outer dimensions of the cornice. You have the option of shaping the lower edge into any style you want. Affix face board to cornice sides and top.

Upholstery:

Cut the foam or batting to fit outside of cornice; add one inch, so you can tuck under edges. Depending on the shape of your cornice, you may want to make a paper pattern before you cut.

Dilute some with glue with water and paint the box with enough glue to thoroughly wet the wood (or use hot glue gun and thoroughly cover with glue).

Place the padding over your cornice and smooth it down, tucking edges under. Use staples or pins to hold padding on until dry. To reduce fullness, clip padding at corners. Allow to dry.

Fabric Covering:

Cut fabric 8" longer and 8" wider than the finished dimension: (width of top board and height of face board X length of top board and twice the length of each leg.

Tuck the fabric to the inside along the edge of each board, securing it with a shape at each corner. Start at the center and work your way out-tucking, stapling & smoothing as you go. Continue until all is secured.

Add trim to top and bottom edges, securing with glue. Allow all to dry.

Mounting:

Cornices are most often mounted with angle irons. These angle irons are mounted onto the wall or moldings. Mount and screw cornice box to angle iron.

Decorating: Color Theory

2008-01-25T11:13:00.000-08:00

Color is all in the eyes of the beholder. Each of us sees color in a subjective manner that is quite unique unto ourselves. When gazing at a bright blue sky, the blue you observe is not exactly the same blue the person next to you sees. As such, when deciding on the colors you plan to use when decorating a room, it is just as important to understand how colors play off of each other. To gain an understanding of this, it is useful to look at color theory before putting color into practice. Having an appreciation of color characteristics and qualities will serve you well when it comes to selecting and mixing colors in your decorating project.

The Color Wheel
The color wheel is an indispensable tool for anyone working with color. This simple tool lends itself well to understanding how colors relate to each other. When viewing the color wheel the first thing to notice is the relationship of the three primary colors, red, blue and yellow. You will notice that they stand equally apart and opposed to one another.

Half way between any two primary colors you will find what is referred to as the secondary colors, orange, green, and violet. Secondary colors are created by mixing two primary colors.

The third category of colors are referred to as tertiary colors, such as yellow-orange, pink, and aqua. Tertiary colors are created by mixing equal parts of a primary color with a secondary color.

Complementary Colors
Strong contrast is what comes to mind when describing complementary colors. On a color wheel complementary colors stand opposite each other and when placed side-by-side are able to create energetic color schemes.

Harmonious Colors
Harmonious colors are the colors that blend well together and create a sense of calm. Often times two colors play off one another to create a relaxed and secure environment. On the color wheel harmonious colors are those colors located between two primary colors.

Use of Saturated and Weakened Colors
Saturated color is bold and pure. The strength of the primary colors are excellent examples of saturated colors. Weakened color is any color that has been deliberately altered so as to fortify the main colors in a room.

Color and Emotion
Colors are typically referred to as being either warm or cool. The colors referred to as warm are the reds, yellows, and oranges. The colors referred to as being cool are the blues, greens, and violets. Some of the attributes associated with warm colors are energy, excitement, boldness, and security. A few attributes associated with cool colors are calm, openness, distance, and tranquility. There are of course exceptions to the attributes of warm and cool, for example the blending of red, the hottest color of all, to create crimsons and pinks. Colors such as the pinks and crimsons seem to defy classification as either warm or cool.

Other interesting aspects of warm colors are how they aid in creating a sense of security, both internally and externally. Internally warm colors help us to feel bold and daring. They help to stimulate a strong and secure inner sense of self. In relationship to one's living environment, warm colors can make rooms seem smaller and provide a sense of security by making the room seem cozy.

Equally interesting is how the cool colors seem to help create an environment conducive to inner reflection and external exploration. Where warm colors can be referred to as cozy, cool colors can be thought of as calming.

Autumn is a time when we hurriedly prepare for winter. During this season, the warm colors begin to dominate as the cool colors of summer give way to the reds, yellows, and oranges of fall. The vibrance and beauty of these warm colors lead us to seek out a warm and cozy place as we head into a cold winter. With the arrival of spring the cool colors once again appear, and with them we calmly begin to open ourselves, both emotionally and physically, to the world before us.

As in nature, the use of warm and cool colors has an enormous affect on the spaces in which we live and work. Choosing room colors based on the intended use of a room will have a significant affect on the emotional "success" of your decorating project.

Extra Dimensions of Color
Color can add many dimensions to a room, enhancing the room's mood in several different ways. Color adds to a room's aesthetic appeal. It can also add to the room's meaning. Color can set a scene in time. The temper created through color can set the mood for the time of day, year, or even historic period, or it can mark a place, indicating regional influences of a locale. Color can also add to what a room tells about a person through a display of energetic contrasts, or the introspective subtleties of harmonious color. Color can assist in identifying a person by illuminating not only their ideas but also their emotions.

Color discloses time because colors change with time. The color of the light illuminating a scene alters as the day transcends from sunrise to sunset and as the year progresses from season to season. And even intrinsic colors of the objects in a room may vary. The natural light that enters a room varies from the cooler light of winter, when the sun remains low over the horizon, through the warm light of summer when the sun rides high in the sky.

In relation to a person's color choice for a room, color can become a badge that identifies the interests of the person, and can establish him in a particular context. For example, a single person may prefer the use of black, white and grey to reflect a self-image of sleekness, sophistication, and independence. A family, on the other hand, may prefer the use of harmonious colors to create a sense of warmth and safety. Sometimes, color can even reveal what a person's interests are at a given moment in time, for example an avid sports fan may design a room based on his or her favorite team's colors. Color can create an atmosphere of nostalgia, and in the right combinations, color can evoke such abstract human responses as restlessness, exploration, hunger, energy, and peace.

Color can be its own justification. It can be used to either support or establish the theme in a room. Discuss color with your interior designer so that you can plan to maximize it's use in your decorating plans.

A Pitfall of Reflected Color
Practically every interior designer and homeowner has, at one time or another, fallen into the trap in which the room furnishings take on the reflected colors cast by the walls thus changing the overall outcome of the decorating project. This unwanted tinting is not the fault of the photographer's equipment. Quite the contrary; the film has honestly recorded the fact that the furnishings are being illuminated by colored light reflected off of the walls.

In the planning stages of a remodeling or decorating project, people tend to think in terms of white light when imagining how room furnishings will look once a room is complete. Often overlooked is how the room furnishings will interact with the colors chosen for the wall treatments, and in some cases the window treatments. Ultimately, everything in a room will react to the true spectral make-up of light.

Experienced interior designers will know how wall and window colors will interact with a room's light sources, whether natural or artificial. Knowledgeable interior designers have learned to see, and anticipate, true color. Good interior designers can take the pitfalls of color reflection and turn them into an asset. They may, for example, use reflected color to warm a room and its furnishings.

Your reward for working with a professional interior designer that thoroughly understands light and color will be the enjoyment of a rich finished room.

Natural Decorations For Autumn and Winter

2008-01-25T10:17:00.000-08:00

Some of the most wonderful decorations for the home can be made simply by collecting natural materials which are all around us and utilizing them to make beautiful adornments for our interiors. Here I will be bringing you some ideas on how to decorate your home for very little money, using items which can be picked up in the hedgerows, at the seaside or in your garden By using Mother Nature's store for seasonal decorations, we make our homes look good, smell wonderful and we learn something about our world. Try this table centrepiece idea around Halloween time;

Using a clear glass or plastic container, (it could be a dish or a vase) fill with red and green apples and intersperse with chestnuts for a pretty, colourful and seasonable display.

If you happen to be cutting down any small trees in your garden, try to find a nicely shaped log or branch and place it on your mantle shelf over the fireplace. Collect leaves from around the garden which hopefully should be red to green, yellow to brown and dazzling with the colours of autumn, and place them round the wood. Place a couple of pine cones or nuts in shells around too for effect.

If you had a summer beach holiday, maybe you brought back some stones, pebbles, driftwood or shells? All these items can be made into beautiful household decorations to see you through late summer and into autumn.

Make a picture (or pictures) by turning shells or pebbles into works of art. Take a piece of hardboard of whatever size takes your fancy. Cover with a map showing the location of your holiday. Using epoxy glue, stick on rows of shells or pebbles. Symmetrical lines look best. Put picture hangers on the back and hang on your wall.

For a lovely and welcoming arrangement in wintertime, place a large glass bowl in the hallway and arrange green and red apples, satsumas, lemons and limes in it. At Christmas time you could add lustrous baubles in with the arrangement! Another alternative is to add evergreen sprigs to the bowl.

When you are decorating your house with natural materials, remember that a decoration for a table centrepiece, say, can also be utilised on a mantle or on a hallway table. Think creatively. Decorating a hall can give you scope to use large pieces of natural materials; big branches from trees, large pumpkins, bails of hay. Gather together beautiful chunky branches for gorgeous arrangements.

Have you thought about using pressed leaves for decorative purposes? Well they can be put to many uses! First of all they can be mounted like a picture in a frame. Use a very small frame with just one leaf mounted onto a pretty background, or arrange a number of leaves in lines on a larger mount. Frame for a beautiful picture. These can be used as presents too! Just think, you would be giving your friends or family beautiful objects which are hand made, one offs. Much better than shop bought presents any day. Also, leaves can be used to decorate cards, name tags and dinner place settings. You just have to let your imagination run wild.

A really nice winter centrepiece can be made placing cut evergreen branches down the table centre. Place candles in short candleholders and disguise these with the branches. Embellish with artificial snow, or . snowballs. made from cotton wool. If you use scented candles they impart a lovely aroma as you are eating. Note: This arrangement should NEVER be left unattended.

Keep an eye out on your travels for natural materials which can be used for all sorts of decorative purposes. Buy your additional items, e.g. candles, baubles, card etc at times of the year when they are the cheapest. Buying during the holiday time will mean paying over the odds. Also watch out for sales so you can buy at discount. I hope you have lots of fun creating some of these lovely natural decorations. They are very easy but extremely effective.

Decorating: Holiday Tabletoppers and Centerpieces

2008-01-25T10:02:00.000-08:00

Evergreen Centerpiece

You will need:

One small squeeze bottle
gold glitter paint
three pinecones
4 1/2" x 3 1/2" floral foam, cut to extend 2" above container rim
Thin wire
Juniper sprigs: eight 10" long, four 9" long, one 7" long
Twelve 7" long sprigs spruce or balsam
Eight 4" - 6" long sprigs white pine
Six 5" - 6" long sprigs holly
Three 2 1/2" long floral picks with wire attached
Waterproof floral tape
Six red carnations
2 yards 1/4" wide gold metallic ribbon
Five white roses
6" diameter x 2" container

Tools needed:

Sharp knife or pruning shears
Scissors
Wire cutters

Preparation:

Gently squeeze the gold glitter paint onto pinecone tips. Let paint dry for to or three hours.
Cover the floral foam with water and let it soak ten minutes.
Using the knife, scrape the needles from the bottom 1" of all greenery sprigs.
Attach a floral pick to each pinecone by wrapping the wire tail around the pinecone. Wrap floral tape around the pick.
Using the knife, trim the stems of the red carnations as follows: two to 7" long, two to 6" long, two to 5" long.
Cut the gold metallic ribbon into five 14" long pieces. Make a four-loop bow with each length of ribbon. To do so, cut a 4" length of thin wire with the wire cutters. Then make a double circle with a piece of ribbon. Bend the wire in half around the middle of the ribbon, tightly twisting the two tails of wire together. Pinch ribbon loops into a bow. Cut tails of bow on the diagonal. Repeat with remaining ribbon.
With the knife, cut the stems of four white roses to 6" long and the stem of one white rose to 5" long.

Assembly:

Place water soaked floral foam in the container. Secure foam to the container by crisscrossing it with floral tape and sticking the tape to the container rim. Insert the 10" sprigs of juniper into the short sides of the foam. Insert the 9" sprigs of juniper close to the middle of the foam angled toward the corners. Position the 7" sprig of juniper in middle of foam (FIG 1).

Put the sprigs of spruce into the floral foam around the bottom and around the center. Insert the white pine sprigs evenly throughout arrangement. Place four sprigs of holly at opposite sides of the arrangement and add two holly sprigs to the middle (FIG 2).

Place the pinecones toward the top of the arrangement around the sprigs of holly in the center.
Put 7" carnations at opposite short sides of the floral foam underneath the holly. Place 6" carnations into the long sides of the foam next to the holly. Insert 5" carnations at top of the foam between the pinecones (FIG 3).

Add the bows randomly to the arrangement, Insert four of the roses into the sides of the foam between the junie=per and the pinecones (photo). Place the fifth rose in the center. Fill container with water. Check the water level daily to be sure the container is filled. To keep the flowers fresh, occasionally remove them from the foam, snip 1/4" to 1/2" from their stems and replace.

Yuletide Centerpiece

You will need:

Large container
Assorted large cones, such as white pine, Scotch pine, spruce, large southern pine
Assorted greens, such as holly, Scotch pine, spruce, balsam, bayberry
Assorted dried flowers such as white pearly everlasting, German statice or annual statice, golden yarrow, tansy
Clusters of berries, such as holly berries, bayberries Cinnamon sticks in assorted lengths
red excelsior
Concentrated potpourri oil, such as bayberry oil

Directions:

Line bottom of container with assorted large cones and freshly picked greens.
Add dried flowers and gently mix on with cones and greens.
Place clusters of berries, whole cinnamon sticks and red excelsior randomly throughout container until you have a pleasing arrangement of colors, shapes and textures.
For long lasting fragrance, add a few drops of your favorite concentrated potpourri oil.

Odds N' Ends of Inspiration

2008-01-25T09:49:00.000-08:00

Several months ago, I moved from the small studio apartment I'd lived in for 11? years to a two-bedroom townhouse. Suddenly, I had space to make all sorts of decorating ideas come true -- now I had to choose which of those millions of ideas I' d loved on IM (Interior Motives) and all those other home decor shows would grace my space -- and find the time and money to do them. Each month, I' d like to share some little ideas that might brighten a corner or two of your home as they have mine.

Crate Labels?

Looking for an inexpensive way to spice up your kitchen walls? Do you love graphic arts from the 20s, 30s, and 40s? Want to start collecting almost-antiques but don' t have a lot of money? Fruit and vegetable crate labels may be your answer!

Before cardboard boxes became widely available, produce was shipped in wooden crates -- and displayed in them at the greengrocers. In order to "merchandise" their wares, packing companies hired graphic artists to create brightly colored, attractive labels to set their brand apart from the hundreds of other packers. Then, when cardboard boxes became the "in" way to ship, unused labels sat around in packing sheds, garages and attics for years.

Amazingly, many of them have survived in pristine condition and are being sold today for unbelievably low prices. Unmounted and unframed ones are available through several dealers for well under $10.00 (my first two were only $2 apiece!) And the variety of subjects is wider than you might think -- not only fruits and vegetables but flowers, animals, landscapes, city scenes -- and more! (Some of my favorites are vintage airplanes and trains.) My own small collection includes travel scenes as varied as the pyramids of Egypt and a Dutch windmill. The sizes and shapes are varied, too -- I found the perfect long, narrow size to go right above my kitchen door (see illustration).

If all this sounds like fun and you' d like more information, check out your local antique store, or some of the numerous websites dedicated to crate label collectors.

My favorites are:

www.labelcollector.com (lots of pictures!)

Chintz Plates -- For Real!!

Have you drooled over those unbelievably cute floral plates in upscale magazines? Thought how great they'd look in an arrangement on the wall? And then have you looked at the prices (and fainted)? Well, while you're saving up for the real thing to hang on your wall, here's a great substitute that' s quick, easy, inexpensive, and may even help you use up some scraps around the house.

As I'm sure you've guessed by now, chintzware got its name because it's patterned like the fabric of the same name. As you may also know, chintz fabric is much less expensive than chintz china. So -- be the first on your block to have real chintzware! And if you want, you can even match your "china" with pillows, etc. that you're making at the same time.

Start with a plain white or light-colored plate -- it' s best to have a straight rather than curved rim. Choose a piece of fabric that' s about 6" larger around than your plate. To cut a pretty accurate circle (perfection is not necessary here since the ends will be hidden on the back) fold your fabric in quarters and mark it with a compass. If your pattern has a particular part you'd like to showcase in the middle, make sure to center that when you're folding. The mixture you'll use to adhere the fabric to the plate is two parts water to one part regular white glue (what would we do without it?)

Turn your plate face side up and center your fabric (face-up) over it. Using a sponge brush, spread the mixture thinly over the front of the plate, smoothing to remove any air bubbles. When you're satisfied, paint another thin coat and turn the plate over. You'll need to make a cut every inch or so almost up to the plate rim so that the fabric will adhere smoothly and evenly to the back without any wrinkles. Brush the glue mixture onto each section and adhere to the back of the plate. When you' re finished, turn it back over and make sure no air bubbles have developed on the front while you were working on the back.

To let the plate dry, set it atop a small custard cup or bowl (small enough so that no glue is touching it -- you don't want this to be part of your creation!) When the plate is dry, a thin spray or coat of matte or shiny varnish will make it easier to keep clean later on. If you decide to try this idea, please let me know how it turns out!

"Off-the-Wall" Storage Solution for a Teeny-Tiny Bathroom

When I moved to my new townhouse, I gained lots of space -- everywhere except the bathroom! Right where I wanted to put a shelf, there's a towel bar ... so, where to put my makeup, hair care stuff, etc.? I had a lovely oblong Italian terra cotta planter (about 15" long) that I didn't know what to do with. It was just the right size to fit on top of the toilet tank (or should I say commode)? Covering it with a couple of small bottles of watered-down acrylic paint in coordinating colors (leftover latex would work just as well, I'm sure) give it a softer look, and three flowerpot-size baskets make it an ideal storage container. I cover the contents of the baskets with colorful napkins -- scarves or tea towels would work just as well. It's a very good idea to glue some felt to the bottom of the planter so you don't mar the tank lid.

Decorating: Displaying Collectibles

2008-01-25T08:59:00.000-08:00

Some of you have contemporary homes, or small collections, and may be wondering, "What relevance does this tip have for me?" As the information unfolds, I believe everyone will find at least one useful idea, no matter how small or modern your collection.
"Collecting is a natural extension of individuals and the things they love." (This is a quote from the book I referenced, below.) A small group of any item, can be a collection. Objects do not have to be expensive. You may even be unaware are that you are a collector. (I do not consider myself one, but I do have a number of small decorative boxes, clocks, and objects from the Arts & Crafts era, i.e.: Frank Lloyd Wright. Therefore, I really do collect!)
My tips and ideas on this topic are broken down into categories, (as usual) such as displaying collectibles on shelves, walls, etc. Please read on to learn more.

TIPS FOR DISPLAYING COLLECTIONS ON SHELVES

For the most part, scale objects from largest to smallest, from back to front. (This may sound logical, but I thought it was worth mentioning.)
You can maintain a cohesive look by using a theme, i.e.: Country, Victorian, etc.
Windowsills can double as shelves.
Forget about the rule that "everything should be placed at eye level." (Except if you have small children. Then, don’t place objects below 4 feet.)
Line shelves with materials that compatible with the scheme, such as bandanas for Southwestern or lace for Victorian.

FURNISHINGS ONE MIGHT USE FOR DISPLAY

In a kitchen: a hutch, a baker’s rack, or a desk with shelving above.
For a family room, kitchen, or bedroom: One could use an armoire, with the doors left open. In addition to placing items on the shelves of the armoire, you might also attach them to the doors.
Don’t forget the lower shelves of end tables, console tables, etc.
A Secretary’s desk makes a fine display case in a living room, family room or study.
Hang objects from the pegs of shaker shelves, and place additional collectibles above.
Consider using a bench, or the end of a bench, to create a small collectible vignette.
Fireplace mantels are always an obvious location to arrange a display.
A corner cabinet not only provides an excellent backdrop of displaying collections, it also makes good use of potentially wasted space.
Create a collectible display in the center of a coffee table. Place items on top of a swatch of fabric, an unfolded napkin, a place mat, or a lace doily. Position a fairly tall object in the center, with smaller pieces surrounding it.
Vintage trunks can be adored with fabrics you’ve collected, or filled with teddy bears, etc.
Fan a trio of nesting tables to showcase objects. Plan the placement of figurines to create a story from one level to the next.
In a room with limited space, place a console table against a wall, position a sofa in front of it, and display a collection on the shelf you’ve created behind.

DISPLAYING COLLECTIONS ON WALLS

A fluid display can be created by combining round plates and square prints, with a similar theme, in a repeating pattern.
Display small items on top of pictures and door frames. To keep an item from them toppling, add museum wax or putty on bottoms or backsides.
Install a molding, with a deep groove, in the unused area above kitchen cabinets. Use the molding to display plates, copper Jell-O molds, etc.
Place ornaments (not necessarily holiday ones) around the perimeter of a wreath made from dry materials, such as grapevines, pinecones, or nuts, etc.
Create a southwestern collage by hanging a folded saddle blanket, with a lasso draped on top. Then finish it off with a cowboy hat.

HOW TO ADD ACCENTS TO DISPLAYS FOR BALANCE AND INTEREST
Add bright touches of fresh or silk flowers to collectibles that are similar in theme, such as a set of wooden animals. This will add interest and break up the monotony.

CHILDREN’S ROOMS

Collecting themes might include cartoon characters, dragons, characters from a favorite book, trains, stamps, animals, sports, Barbie, the circus, etc. The author of the book, below, suggested giving a collectible item at each birthday. I thought that was a great way to commemorate the occasion!
Make use of "kid’s meal" figurines before the dog eats them! A complete set may be very valuable someday! How about a shadow box full of Pokemon figures or a chiffon wreath adored with miniature Barbie dolls?

HOLIDAY DISPLAYS

Attach greenery and garland, or ornaments, to the face of shelving.
Place a miniature, such as a Department 56 chalet, in the center of a wreath.
Create small, moveable vignettes, by grouping a set of items, such as a village or carolers, in a basket or on a tray. If you use a deep container, insert a material, such as Styrofoam to raise the pieces up near the top. Surround the setting with materials that fit the theme, such as snow for winter holidays or artificial grass for a spring. This type of display can be used year round, and the vignettes can be moved from room to room to create a changing scene. (A small trunk might also be a suitable container.)
Similar items, such as nutcrackers, teapots, and ornaments, are now available for all seasons and styles. They might be fun items to begin a collection with.

OTHER IDEAS FOR DISPLAYING COLLECTIBLES

Tie objects to drawer or doorknobs.
Use a contrasting backdrop to accentuate objects displayed.
To keep pictures straight, attach a small piece of sponge to the back.
A wagon or baby buggy are creative items to display collections in.
Use easels for artwork, if you have the space. For a southwestern scheme, try a lodgepole pine kiva ladder in place of an easel.
Also for southwestern d飯r, use a rough blanket and/or an unfinished slab of stone, to place objects on.
How about an antique doll bed, miniature bench, or child’s rocking chair?
Dress-up unused window seats, or bay windows, with displays.
Fill a large glass container with glass ornaments combined with polished rocks, shells, or other elements from nature.
A friend, once created a rainbow on his windowsill with a collection of cylindrical glass jars. He filled the containers with water. Then he added different combinations of food coloring to create the colors of the rainbow. When light came streaming through the jars, it was like a prism.
Waterproof collectibles, such as shells, starfish, rocks, etc. can adorn the perimeter of a bathtub.
Here’s a wonderful idea I’d never seen before (it is in the book below). For a centerpiece, stack antique books between candlesticks. Then, on top of the books, and around, place collectibles such as lighthouses, or fish, antique dolls, etc.
Place a mirror on a flat surface. Then, combine a candle garden (a group of candles of different diameters and heights) with collectibles of a like theme, such as a village or storybook characters. Caution: Make sure you chose collectibles that are not flammable!
A very small plate, on a stand, can adore one side of a pedestal sink. Reserve the space on the opposite side for a decorative soap, or soap dish.
Display vintage clothing on a dressmaker’s stand, or use a hanger to suspend apparel from the stem of a wall sconce. A hat on top of the stand finishes the appearance.

Woodworking for Chicks (Part 3)

2008-01-23T10:50:00.000-08:00

Your First Project: A Display Box

This box is a simple project, made from pine boards cut at the home improvement center, and a few nails and screws. It can be used for a home office or for displaying items in any room.

The dimensions are:
A= 1x10, cut 2, 30 inches long.
B= 1x10, cut 2, 5 1/2 inches long.
C= 1x6, cut 1, 28 1/2 inches long.

Pieces A and B form the box, and piece C fits inside the box.

(front view)

The area for nails or screws is indicated with dots on piece A. I used finishing nails, sank them, and covered with putty.

(side view)

I provide my dimensions, but you can adapt them for your needs. I constructed this box long enough to find 2 wall studs, which are normally 16 inches apart, and have extra room for positioning it aesthetically over a desk. Also, the 5 1/2 inch tall opening is ideal for storing CDs. I arrived at this measurement because it is the actual width of a 1x6, which I used for the back of the box. It was a lucky coincidence.

Boards A and B are cut from the same board, a 1x10, which is actually just over 9 inches wide. It is a good size in which to place papers and folders, and the top area is good for holding books. Also, because pieces A and B are cut from the same board, I know they will fit together perfectly.

Arrows on the diagram indicate grain of the wood.
There is no end-grain on face of box.
Exposed end-grain is on sides of box.
Corners have been sanded to round the edges.

To attach the box to the wall, I located the wall studs, and drove long screws directly through the back of the box into these studs. My screws are exposed, but you can counter-sink yours and apply putty or wood caps over them.

Woodworking for Chicks (Part 2)

2008-01-23T10:48:00.000-08:00

Nails versus screws

My personal choice is to use screws for my projects for one main reason. I have spaghetti arms. It requires much less upper-body strength to use a power drill and screws to attach two pieces of wood than it does to wield a hammer. Sometimes, screws will push the two pieces of wood apart a little before they draw them together. You develop a feel for this.

Also, it is sometimes important to pre-drill before using screws to prevent splitting the wood. Do this by choosing a drill bit slightly smaller than the screw you will be using. (Hold up a bit with the screw behind it, and make sure you can see the threads on either side of the bit.) Now, wood glue and nails is a good form of construction, and the nails can be sunk with a nail set, then filled with putty for good finishing. This is necessary for the beautiful pieces where you don't want to see any screws. Any molding application requires nails that are sunk and filled.

When filling your nail holes, choose a putty or filler that will accept stain the same way your wood does, or one that will match your finished stain color. For painted projects, this isn't an issue. Paint will cover your filler. I read a tip in "The Family Handyman" which suggests staining a piece and applying the first clear coat before applying putty.This will prevent smearing the putty around, and enable you to match color better. There are both oil-based and water-based putties, the colors of which can be mixed to match your finish. Use a product that is compatible with your other finishing products.

Finishes

There is such a variety of stain and paint products available, too many to discuss here. And I can only speak about the ones I've used. I am conservative about the vapors or fumes to which I expose my children and myself. I do much work outdoors or in an open garage, and I use mostly acrylic and latex products. When I couldn't locate a water-based stain, I found that I can use a petroleum-based stain, then apply acrylic urethane. Always read the warning labels on any product you purchase, and take the appropriate precautions.

Go shopping

Take a tape measure, a tablet, and a calculator to the home improvement center. That will enable you to make decisions on the spot about the dimensions of your project, should you need to make adjustments. Keep in mind that a board labeled "one by" is not one inch thick. A 1x3 is about 3/4 inch by 2 1/2 inches. This will have an impact on your overall dimensions, and consequently, your measurements for cutting.

Take the time to explore the shop really well, if you haven't already done so. Often, items that are intended for one purpose will inspire you to find new uses. Don't be shy about playing with boards and molding in the store. I can be found sitting on the floor in aisle 6, working out design ideas. This is sometimes necessary until you start to imagine your designs in three dimensions. Don't be shy about asking for assistance from the staff. You will quicklydiscern who does and doesn't know what they're talking about.

Get to work

Draw an initial design on paper. Start to fill your tool box with a hammer, electric drill/screwdriver, assorted drill bits, assorted finish nails, wood screws or drywall screws, nail set, wood glue, assorted sandpaper, carpenter square, tape measure and a stud finder. Start with a simple project, or by making square or rectangle boxes. This will help prove to yourself that You Can Do It!

Woodworking for Chicks (Part 1)

2008-01-23T10:46:00.000-08:00

Yes, woodworking is not just for guys, it's for chicks too! It's not all that complicated or expensive to get started either. I lack a workspace and have a fear of blades, but I have learned, through necessity, that I can build decorative features for my home and for gifts, without ever picking up a saw. I realize there are some readers who own and operate more tools than I do, and who have plenty of experience in home decor construction projects. To those readers, I invite you to supplement my information. Also, please encourage our novice builders that they can do it! For the less experienced or the tool-barren women who are interested in building simple and not-so-simple projects, I hope to provide some information that will demonstrate that you can indeed build things for yourself.

Start with a basic plan

What simple shape is literally the building block of many do-it-yourself projects? A box! From this simple construction, you can build a bookcase, a CD cabinet, a curio shelf, a mantle-style shelf, a window treatment box, an ottoman, etc. Take a look at many of the items you would like to make. Chances are that many of them are basically squares and rectangles, accented by shelves, molding and other features. If you can make a box, you can make anything! Below I list some tips to help you make box-projects.

Wood selection

For many projects, you can choose between plywood and pine boards. You will find several grades (how smooth or how flawed) of each at the shop. A sheet of plywood is 4x8 feet, and many boards can be cut from this, but only if you (or a kind neighbor) possess a power saw. If you need to have your wood cut for you at the home improvement store, then you will need to buy pine boards. At the shop, they will not "rip" wood. That is, they will only make cross-grain cuts of pieces that fit in their saw. So, they will cut a plywood sheet in half, but they will not cut it into boards for you. However, they are able to cut pine boards to whatever length you choose. Each store has a policy about the number of cuts they will provide for free, then there is a minimal charge (like 25 cents) for each additional cut. Some sales associates will strictly adhere to this, and complete a form with the number of cuts. Other associates will cut and cut and cut, and not charge you.

I personally have a well-founded fear of blades, and have the scars to demonstrate. (Really, they are from accidents with a kitchen knife and a Swiss army knife, back in my helpless-female days.) I own a jigsaw, and I'm scouting for the best deal on a miter saw. These should enable me to do a good deal of my own cutting. But once I started getting boards cut at the home improvement shop, I was liberated. I didn't need to beg my father or brother to help me with my projects, and subsequently hear their comments about "Now what are you up to?" When I realized I could bring home pre-cut boards, I started this wonderful journey into do-it-yourself-land.

Joinery

Forget the dovetails, the dados, the rabbets, and the miters. Reserve mitering for your molding work, since that's the time when it is vital. Use simple butt joints. You know, one piece of wood sits against another piece of wood, and you glue and nail or screw them together. Simple. The only downside to butt joints is that an end-grain is exposed. When staining, end-grain accepts stain differently that the rest of the wood. This can be remedied by applying sealer to end-grain before staining. Also, end-grain requires a good deal of sanding to make it smooth, for staining or painting. But the ease of construction using this type of joinery is worth it.

For attaching pieces end to end, like putting boards together for a table top or the back of a curio cabinet, you can use one of two methods. Attach from below/inside with a crosspiece. Screw it into each board with a wood screw long enough to go through the brace and part way into the tabletop. Or use a dowel or biscuit method. Now, I've left biscuit joinery to Norm Abram, because it requires equipment I don't have. (That is not a gender joke.) It is pretty easy to use dowels to attach pieces if you buy yourself a doweling jig.

This device allows you to drill a hole in similar locations on two boards so that you can glue a fluted dowel, and insert halfway into each. If you've ever built an IKEA or Sauder item, you may be familiar with dowel construction. You will also need a bar-clamp to hold your item while the glue cures. The desk upon which my computer sits was built by me (thank you very much), and includes both the doweling method and the cross-brace method. Just wanted to be sure it's stable!

Decorating: Memories of Summer Style

2008-01-23T10:43:00.000-08:00

It occurred to me recently how precious some of my childhood summer memories are, and how I could preserve them by decorating a room in a summer theme with treasures from the past, pictures of summers long gone, and a few fun things to remind me of more carefree times.

I'm working on preserving one of my fondest summer memories- our family trips to the beaches of North Carolina when I was a child. We'd stay in a cabin on the beach at a Christian family retreat, working on our relationships with each other, with God and with ourselves.

Perhaps my happiest experience there was clamming in a nearby bay with my brother. A group of us went to a small inlet nearby, rolled up our pants, took off our shoes and socks, and felt for the clams with our bare feet. We'd often do the "twist" in the sand until we felt a large hard bump, then reach down and pull up a large clam. This was treasure hunting at its finest- we never knew what we'd find!

Occassionally we'd pull up a razor muscle (ouch!) or snapping scallop- one of the weirdest creatures I've ever seen, but also one of the most beautiful, with their lovely shells and row of bright blue eyes. We'd scream in delight as we threw the snapping scallops back in the water before they could pinch our fingers.

Later, we'd haul our heavy load of "goodies" back to the retreat center and have a clam bake on the beach, complete with bonfire. There was simply no better way to celebrate summer as a child- I don't think even Disney World could rival the feeling of being close to nature with friends and family.

These are the times I want to hold on to, days to preserve for the rest of my life, days that give me comfort in times of strife or the endless gloominess of winter. I figured that the best way to do that was to surround myself with them- by decorating with my memories.

And where is the best place to escape to the beach? I figured it was that mysterious place known as the bathroom- mine have lacked charm for years, so I've never thought of the bathroom as a place to escape. But there you can lock yourself away from the world, or at least the kids, for a few minutes and dream.

So I'm planning a beach retreat bathroom, complete with everlasting sand castles, childhood photos, and seashells near the bath tub. This can all be done very inexpensively (all of this summer stuff is on clearance right now), and the best part is that I can take some of those old photos out of the boxes and albums, and actually use them every day. A beautiful poem such as "Footprints in the Sand" or the "The Legend of the Sand Dollar" would add a nice touch to this retreat, along with a copy of Anne Morrow Lindberg's "Gifts from the Sea".

When I'm soaking in the tub, all I have to do is glance at my surroundings, close my eyes, and suddenly I am 12 years old again- the sun on my back, my feet in the sand, and my head in the clouds; dreaming of finding the world's biggest clam and squealing with delight as I pull up another snapping scallop instead.

10 Low-Cost, No-Cost Decorating Ideas for Spring

2008-01-23T10:34:00.000-08:00

This is what I hope to be a regular column on low-cost or no-cost decorating. Some months I will throw out some ideas to get your creative juices flowing and other months I will have a very inexpensive project.

Before I get started into the ideas, I want to let you in on my decorating philosophy. I like to thrift shop. Sometimes I have a particular item in mind, but most of the time I am just looking. If I see something interesting and that I think will fit a need I have and the price is right, I purchase it. I like to go through expensive catalogs to get great ideas and I keep a list of these ideas in my planner (which I have on me at all times). I do set a limit on prices for particular types of items.

For instance, bookcases, cabinets, dressers, desk, and thinks like that I will not spend over $25 unless it is a fantastic antique. Occasional chairs, no more than $3. I buy linens, pillows, etc., as long as the price is right. This helps me to have those decorating props our beloved CL is always talking about. The individual cost of these items is low, and by purchasing them over a period of time, it doesn't kill your budget.

OK, enough of me rambling, lets get down to some specific ideas. For this first month, I want to give you some ideas to get you in the mood for spring. I know that in some parts there is still snow on the ground, but spring will be here before you know it. So lets get started with some quick and easy low cost ideas. The starred (*) items will be upcoming projects.

Rearrange your furniture grouping to take advantage of the view outside.Cost: $0
If the view outside is not so great, is it possible to create a better view? How about a trellis covered with a quick growing vine. You could possibly get some vine cuttings from a friend. Cost: trellis-approx:$15; vine cuttings-$0 - $20
Bring some of the spring inside. Take some branches from a tree and spray paint them white. Place in a large vase on the floor. Cost:$0-$3 if you need to purchase paint.
Remove the heavy table coverings and replace with old linens you find at thrift shops. I always pick these up if the price is right, even though I have no particular need for them at the moment. Cost:$.25-$5.
Place a large silver or brass platter in your fireplace for the spring. In front of it, place an arrangement of candles on a wooden turntable. The sparkle it will create at night is beautiful. Cost: $0 if you have the platter and candles.
On the top of your bookcases or entertainment center do an arrangement of silk greenery. Try using boxes for containers. With the greenery, no one will see the boxes, but you could paint them if you wish. Place a small candlestick lamp behind the arrangement for added drama. Cost: $10-$15 (if you get the greenery on sale)
Remove your heavy drapes and leave just the sheers up. For a change of pace, purchase some ribbon and tie up your sheers about 1/3 the way from each end and let the center swag. Cost: just the ribbon, which can be from $0-5 depending on whether it is on sale, from a thrift shop, or best of all, from your sewing room!
Slipcover your fireplace mantel for the warmer months. *
Do some simple and easy slipcovers for your kitchen/dining room chairs.*
Cheer up your throw pillows with some ribbon wraps.*

I hope these ideas will get you started. Happy decorating!

Make a Window Bench

2008-01-23T10:04:00.000-08:00

Looking for something decorative to put under your window which will also be functional? Build a window bench! This bench was featured on the "Looking for Ideas" episode of Interior Motives. Notes and pictures are from our friend Ellen.

Materials needed:

Lots of plywood
Hammer
Nails
2 by 4's

Basically, it's a set of 3 boxes put together.

Frame- First you have to measure the length, width, and height of the space where you want the bench to be in order to get the right amount of plywood and 2 by 4's needed. Say for example your space is 4 ft. long, 2 ft. width and 2 ft. height.

The next step is to build a frame with the 2 by 4's, like you're making 2 boxes next to one another. You would need (12) 2 by 4's for one box and (12) for the one next to it. Cover the inside front part of each box and the sides of your box frame with plywood or verneer(finished plywood). Verneer is more expensive, but already primed so you won't have to prime it to paint.

Sides -The 2 sides are separate boxes that sit on top of your frame. To make this, you need (4) 2 by 4's nailed together in a square. (8) 2 by 4's for two sides. Cover the outside with plywood or verneer. Nail to your frame (one on each side).

Back-The back part is a large piece of plywood. On the show, CL had it cut in a "sleigh bed" style (high on the ends and curved in the middle but you can have it cut into any shape or just leave it straight. To attach it to the frame, my advice is to nail it to the 2 side boxes. CL did it with a laving strip and notches, but it's too complicated to try and explain how he did it. You almost have to see the show and he never really explains it anyway.

Seat- The seat part is just (1) piece of plywood, the same dimensions as your frame. If you want to lift it up for storage, you need to have a hole in the front center of the plywood. This piece just sits on the frame, no nailing required.

Finishing- Decorate the side panels with laving strips or molding and prime and paint the whole thing. Put cushions on the seat and pillows against the back and you have a window seat. Now you can move the whole thing into the space you want. Below, you will find some illustrations with the 4 steps on it. Have fun and enjoy your new window seat!

A Canopy Bed Shelf

2008-01-23T09:59:00.000-08:00

Ever dreamed of creating the look of a bed and breakfast in your own bedroom? Our friend, Ellen, made this beautiful canopy bed shelf after watching an episode of Interior Motives called "The Inn Look".

Materials Needed:

pre-made shelf and brackets
wood screws
closet pole
2 dowel cups
material or sheets (Ellen used 2 single sheets)
molding
finishing nails
staple gun
2 drapery finials

Process:

Buy a pre-made wood shelf, slightly smaller than your bed width. (The shelf used in the picture was 42" and Ellen has a queen sized bed)
Using wood screws, screw shelf into brackets but reverse the way the shelf should go, the straight edge that usually goes against the wall should be facing towards you and the curved edge will be against the wall.
Screw the dowel cups to the inside of the bracket, one on each side.
Make a simple hem at the top of your fabric and then run the closet pole through it. Insert your pole with the fabric attached into the dowel cups. Now you have the back panel. (She used one whole single sheet for this step).
For the side panels, take one panel of fabric (or one single sheet, cut in half length-wise), turn in the edge and staple to the top of the shelf, gathering the material as you staple for a nice pleat. Staple the material all the way around the side of the shelf. Do the same with the other side. Now you have 2 side panels.
For the valance, take another piece of fabric ( I used the bottom of my sheet which already had a ruffle on it) and starting from the back, staple all the way across and around to the other side. Now you should have 2 side panels, a back panel and a valance.
Add the crown molding to the top and sides of the shelf with finishing nails (you'll need to make 2 miter cuts).
To put the canopy shelf on the wall, follow the instructions that come with the pre-made shelf kit (basically the screws go into the wall and the pre-made holes in the brackets go over the screws).
Put your decorative drapery finials on the wall and drape the 2 side panels over the finials. Now you have a beautiful canopy bed shelf!

Decorating: Brown Bagging It

2008-01-23T09:51:00.000-08:00

I have a habit of checking out how things are made and trying to come up with ways I can do it "for less". One day I was at the Art Institute of Houston, sitting in the waiting room. There was a wall that looked like leather and it intrigued me. After awhile I got up & went to check it out. It was brown paper bags glued on to the wall! I could do that!

Since then I have put the idea to great use on lamps, shades, garbage cans, picture frames, chairs, boxes and, of course, an entryway! This is a very economical way to have a rich look and it's a lot of fun to do, if you don't mind having sticky hands. It is a simple process and very inexpensive. When the cashier at the grocery store asks "Paper or plastic?" just answer, "Paper, please!" Besides grocery bags you can also use brown wrapping paper. Here's how to do it:

Materials:

Grocery bags or brown wrapping paper (kraft paper)
white glue (i.e. Elmer's)
a bowl
water

Process:

Tear (or cut) your paper into interesting shapes and sizes.
Water your glue down to a paint consistency. Dip pieces of brown bags in the bowl of glue, then wipe off the excess glue and start layering the pieces on your object in random order. Have fun with it!
Let it dry. When you are finished it will have a shiny glaze to it. You can also give it an older effect by using an antiquing medium from the crafts paint section of your favorite craft store. Put your imagination to work with the leather effect and always remember that "YOU CAN DO IT!" Here are some of the other neat things I have done with brown bags. Let your imagination go wild!

Change an Old Futon in New Nightstands

2008-01-23T09:48:00.000-08:00

Up until recently, we've had stereo speakers for nightstands. When they were hooked up and working, they made sense. But a couple of years ago one blew out, so we quit hooking them up. Since we still used them for nightstands, it was quite unattractive.

Recently I had a creative solution. We are moving to a new place out of Denver next month, and we will have one less room. Therefore we had an extra futon sofa that we either needed to donate or sell. I got to looking at it the other day and realized that it was made out of strong pine boards. I was wondering what we could do with the wood, since the mattress is basically shot anyway. At first I thought of making planter boxes, but later I thought of making nightstands.

I took all of the boards apart and packed the old screw holes with wood putty then sanded them down. I then took paper, pen, and a tape measure and designed four small tables from the available wood. After deciding how to make them, my husband cut all of the pieces for me (he's stronger). Then both of us and all three kids sanded all of the edges down. Then we took one small piece and screwed it into four cut slats laid side by side to create a table top when turned over.

We then took four longer pieces and screwed them into the small pieces holding the slats together. Since the legs were somewhat wobbly, we also took a small piece and braced it across the inside of two legs on each side to add stability. When turned over none of the screws show from the top or sides. The bracing piece actually looks more decorative than functional.

After the little tables were assembled, my two oldest children stained them to match our dressers with leftover stain from storage. The finished product is very cute with a country, rustic look. The total cost was $7.96 for a saw and $1.98 for screws. My reinforced lesson in this is to always look at what you have with an open mind to see all the possibilities that it may hold.

Note: We decided to put the old mattress in storage with our camping equipment to be used when camping. Both my children commented on how much fun they had making the tables with us and how good it felt to do things as a family. My daughter even said how sad she thought it was that many of her friends hardly ever do anything with their parents.

My son also said that he was glad that he had learned how to use a drill, because he thought that would be useful when he grows up and needs to fix things himself. Children really have a way of making you feel wonderful for such simple things.

Decorating with Your Food Supply

2008-01-23T09:44:00.000-08:00

If you like to stock up on food at sales, so that you have a food cache for emergencies or just to save money, you'll eventually run into the challenge of finding space for all of it. Here are some ideas on how to store it:

Hide it!

You can store food not only in the cabinets but under any table-just cover it with a cloth. (You can make one from a bedsheet that you buy on sale; twin flat sheets usually give the most fabric for the dollar.) As a matter of fact, ANY table in your house can be covered with a cloth and the area beneath used to store your food supply. The only sites in your house where you cannot use a table's cavity to store food are those that are damp, such as the basement. You know that onions and potatoes and apples need to be stored in a cool place, but never together because they cause each other to deteriorate.

Add Shelving

Wherever you store food on shelves, you can add shelves between existing shelves so that you use all the space (and don't have wasted space above items already in the cabinet or closet). If you can find turntables in a thrift store, snap them up as they make it much easier to reach food that would otherwise be stuck in the nether regions of your cabinet or even your closet if it is a deep walk-in type.

Closets

Look inside your closets, too. You can install racks on the doors of your closets (this is also true of your kitchen cabinets). If you rent, you may want to invest in the racks that include large hooks that hang over the doors so that you do not need to put screws in the doors.

Unclaimed Spaces

Use grocery-store or other cartons to store food under your bed. You may need to cut them down to size. It is best to use cartons rather than simply placing the cans under the bed because you can pull out the cartons as trays much more easily than you could reach individual cans.

Food Storage as Furniture

Any drawers in your house that are not being used will do well to store food. Place a big carton in your living room and cover it with a handsome cloth after storing food in it. Or, you may be lucky enough to have an elegant trunk that you can fill with food.

Get creative, and you may be able to reclaim unused space to solve your food storage problems. You can do it!

Budget Decorating: Make a Coffee Table Bench

2008-01-23T09:28:00.000-08:00

With this project you can create an elegant upholstered bench to place at the foot of your bed. My inspiration for this project came from this beautiful bench I saw at a high-end specialty design store. The graceful Queen Anne style legs and gorgeous tapestry fabric was just beautiful. Of course it cam with a high price tag that was way out of my budget.

As I stood there wishing I could have this bench, it suddenly occurred to me that the legs looked like the legs of a nice coffee table. My mind started racing. If I got a coffee table, padded and upholstered the top, I could have a bench just as beautiful for under $25. I could not get out of the store fast enough to head straight for my favorite thrift store.

Well I did not find a table with graceful Queen Anne legs, and not being patient enough to wait on this project, I settled for a basic coffee table. I decided to add a skirt to hide the plain legs. The table I purchased had a small tier on top. This I sawed off and will use for another project, maybe a footstool. So even though I did not get my graceful legs, I got two projects for the price of one.

Enough chattering, here are the instructions:

Materials:

coffee table of desired size
1-2" foam cut to size of table
top
polyester quilt batting
fabric for top and skirt
trim
spray adhesive

If table has any trim or molding around the edge, remove. Remove legs if possible.
Lay table upside down of form, trace around table with an ink pen. (do not use a marker, it can bleed through the fabric.)
Adhere foam to table top with spray adhesive.
Cut batting large enough to cover the top and wrap over sides to underneath. Tack batting down with a few staples.
Cut fabric to top over top, allowing pleat to wrap over sides. (cut generously, don't skimp.)
Staple fabric in place. Begin with one staple in the center of each side, pulling fabric taut. Don't pull too tight, so that it makes dimples on the front. When you get to the corners, take small pleats to east in the excess fabric. If not using a skirt, apply trim at this point.
For skirt, cut fabric. The length of the skirt will be the distance from the top of the table to the floor. Add 4" so you can do a double 2" hem. Hem one edge of fabric.
The width of the skirt will be determined by the style of skirt and your fabric choice. For a fully gathered skirt out of a soft fabric--measure all around the top edge of the table. Double this measurement to get the necessary width. Seam fabric together to form a tube. Gather top edge of skirt to fit bench top.
For a more tailored skirt of heavier fabric try inverted pleats in the corners. Measure around of top edge of bench. For each pleat add 4-5" to this measurement.
Staple skirt to top edge of bench. For pleats as you near each corner, take fabric and form pleats that meets at the corner. Continue around bench in this manner.
Apply decorative trim at top to cover staples.
Sit back and enjoy your bench.

Ok, just a little more chattering. The one thing that I noticed about the benches in this high end store was the beautiful fabrics and trims. A project like this does not take much fabric, so go ahead and splurge on some great fabrics and trims. If you're a little hesitant, make one first out of inexpensive fabric, but on the next one, go for it. You will end up with one fantastic piece of furniture that you will be proud of.

So get going and remember to send us pics so we can all share in your achievement. Remember YOU CAN DO IT!!!

Adding Character with Inexpensive Objects

2008-01-23T09:23:00.000-08:00

There are many great, inexpensive ways to add character to your decorating scheme without spending a lot of money. Here are some ideas for adding character with inexpensive and 'found' objects.

A flower pot, planter or art pottery vase makes a great silverware caddy. Line it with a pretty piece of fabric; napkin, tea towel, doily, scarf, whatever. Leave it on the table as pretty yet practical decor!
An old birdbath fitted with an acrylic or glass round makes a great side table in your cottage-style decor.
Dress up those chipped clay pots by adding sheet moss to the exterior. Spray adhesive or spread glue on pots and pat on sheetmoss. Garnish with an empty flower seed packet tied on with a ribbon. Note: Not just for plants! Try it in the bath with soaps, cottonballs or Q-Tips.
Make your own customized flower frogs. A simple grid made from 1/2 inch masking tape over the opening of your container allows any object to have a perfect fit flower frog. Flowers won. t fall to the sides in larger containers and arranging is much easier.
One can never have enough hold-alls. Make yourself a decorative box. A box with a flip-up lid works best for this (like a child's school box). Glue on fabric, paper, raffia, silk leaves, anything that trips your trigger. Have fun playing with it as you dress it for whatever space or occasion you choose.
Add some fringe to a pretty scarf and toss casually over a chair. ?
To keep your outdoor candles burning slip a hurricane shade over them.?
Fancy curtain rods can get pretty pricey. Instead, for your kitchen or laundry area, try 2 cup hooks with colored plastic-coated clothesline strung tight between. Attach a pretty piece of fabric, or floral tablecloth, napkins, etc. to the clothesline with colored plastic clothespins. Be sure to space them far enough apart to get that attractive "soft pleat" between clothespins. On my sleeping porch I. ve used plain cotton clothesline and wooden clothespins to hang mismatched panels of old lace curtains for a cottage-style look.
Do your wide or multi-wick candles tend to burn crooked and dribble? Keep these wicks trimmed to about 1/4 in. The shorter flame will keep the melt to the inside. How about those "dripless" tapers that always manage to leave a glob of wax on your table. Dig to the back of your cupboard and pull out those saucers you never use for coffee. Set your candlestick on the saucer to catch the drips. Decorate around the base of the candlestick if you like with dried fruit slices, candies, inexpensive silk flower candle rings- anything you don. t mind tossing out if you can't get the wax off.
Turn a twin bed into a daybed. Place the bed lengthwise against the wall. Use 2 body pillows as back and sides, bending around the corners. You can make pillowcases for these to coordinate with your room, or, just wrap your fabric around them and safety pin (my lazy favorite.)

Primitive Style Decorating

2008-01-23T09:17:00.000-08:00

"Of all the definitions and illustrations and examples we can give, primitive art may be best described as "Works of love". Its a teddy bear or simple doll or stuffed pillow or favorite quilt that a child has loved and held and slept with until it was almost worn out.

We think of our own children when they were young and gave us a crayon picture with the caption "I Love You" And we remember our own cherished toys. We long for our lost doll and wish that just once more, we could hold her and be comforted by her softness and hug her until there was nothing left but the memory. Primitive art revives the memory, gives us comfort and takes us back to a simple time when gifts came from the heart and one toy was a friend forever."

This quote came from a wonderful primitive site that is loaded with information. The site is Homespun Peddler. The primitive items that people are buying are rag balls, lace doilies that are tea stained to look old, tin items, candles of all types, wire rug beaters, antique bobbins and rustic wooden items. Baskets are always a part of this style, too.

I think the reason that people like primitive decorating is that it takes them back to a simpler time. That is one reason why antiques are so popular. I know they are collectible, too, but for the most part, the rustic country look is homey and comfortable. My husband and I were lucky enough to receive many old family heirlooms and have decorated our guest room and family room with a variety of antiques. Because antiques are fairly expensive, we have incorporated many items that were actually new and made them look old. The crackling technique that many of you have used is a good example of how to make new furniture look old. Because this is a big part of what I make, I am always looking for new ideas.

Thanks to Kim and the switch to one-list, I found another wonderful group called Primitive Haven. During the last several weeks, I have listened and learned many things to incorporate into the primitive country look. Primitive dolls and pillows are big, grunge candles with potpourri around them, wooden garden angels and much more. One thing that is very big is rusted tin. I have several small tin watering cans and pails that I just could not get to rust. The Primitive Haven group had two methods of rusting tin that I am going to try. You may come up with other ways to use these techniques.

Rusting Tin

For "light" rusting:

Pour APPLE CIDER (Must be APPLE CIDER) vinegar into an all-metal cookie sheet with sides. DO NOT use Teflon coated, enamelware, glass or plastic containers.
Immerse tin into APPLE CIDER vinegar making sure the piece of tin is completely covered. Leave the tin in the vinegar for approximately 20-30 minutes. IT WILL NOT RUST IN THE PAN OF VINEGAR.
Lift tin out of the vinegar and stand up on edge to dry. (Be sure to protect drying surface). DO NOT WIPE VINEGAR OFF. The tin will rust as it is air drying. The rusting could take 30 min. to 3-4 hours depending on the humidity in your area. The longer you air dry, the more rusty it looks. When tin is completely dry, it will turn a copper color with uneven streaks and swirls.

For heavy rusting:

This must be done in a well-ventilated area or outdoors. Use an all-metal cookie sheet with sides. DO NOT use Teflon-coated, enamelware, glass or plastic containers.

Measure 2 cups of CLOROX or any household bleach and pour into a metal cookie sheet with sides. Add l cup of APPLE CIDER vinegar and mix thoroughly.
Immerse tin into solution. Tin has to be completely covered. It will start rusting immediately in the solution. It takes approx. 2-3 min.
Lift out of solution and stand on edge to dry. It will become very rusty. Let air dry completely for approx. 1-3 hours or overnight. When it is completely dry, wipe some of the rust off with a dry cloth...this is optional.

Fake Rust

We've all discovered it. s almost impossible to rust galvanized metal. So here's a recipe for "fake rust".

Very lightly spritz with rustoleum "Rusty Metal Primer V7769" (this is a neat brown-red color), then lightly sprinkle on some craft silicon sand ( this can be kept in a old salt shaker), then very lightly spritz with the Rustoleum again. Wipe off excess sand, and seal with a matte spray. It is important to keep a light hand here so that some of the metal can peek through.

Rusting Galvanized Tin

Use muratic acid to take the galvanizing off of the tin. Clean the tin with water and spray or dip it in apple cider vinegar and set it outside to rust. It should rust overnight. Spray more vinegar on it for more rust to form. The person that gave me this tip had used it on new watering cans and it had worked well. She also suggested doing this outside due to the nasty smell.

Aging Fabric

Another quick trick that I learned was how to age fabric or doilies with tea or coffee. Here are three ways to do it:

Put twice as much coffee grounds as you usually do in your coffeemaker and brew up some coffee. Then put the coffee in another container and add the fabric or doilies.
Put 10 tea bags in about a quart of boiling water. Let them steep. When it looks dark, add the fabric or doilies
You can also sprinkle coffee crystals on the doily after it is dyed and it will add additional staining.
This group also suggested using hair dye to make fabric with polyester in it look tea-dyed. I haven. t tried that, but I have some fabric that is going to get tested! Other ideas that they shared were how to make grunge candles and how to dry fruit for potpourri or decorative uses. The list goes on and on.

Happy Decorating!!!

Decorating in Early Yard Sale

2008-01-23T09:13:00.000-08:00

De-cluttering and simplifying my life have been some of the most cleansing things I've done lately. I finally grew up (since I'm now officially the big 4-0) and realized that materialistic things won't lead to happiness. I love filling my house with flowers that I've grown in my garden, oftentimes using a simple canning jar as a vase.

I can spend an entire afternoon straightening my daughter's room, marveling at her growth while I separate clothes she never wears to take to the Goodwill. I love changing her bed and putting on freshly laundered and air dried sheets, opening the windows and letting the nature breezes fill the room.

I love going into my son's room and seeing the things that captivate him displayed on his walls. Certainly I could fill my home with "themed" costly paintings, elegant furniture, expensive wallpaper and borders, etc. but I choose to use an eclectic mix of items.

My daughter's room is done in "cottage" style as I like to call it. Nothing matches. Her curtains are my old kitchen curtains from the time we lived in base housing. They're a country blue with eyelet lace and flowers. Her shelves are two pieces of 8' pine board that I painted white and sponged with three coordinating shades of blue. Her quilt rack is an old wooden ladder from a bunk bed that I propped against the wall. Her floor is wood with an area rug and on the walls are cross stitched pictures that I did while pregnant with her, posters and things that she likes. As she grows older, she'll have more say in what she'd like her room to look like and we'll scour thrift shops, estate sales and auctions together to find just the right touch.

My son's room is done in a sports theme. Even though he's not into this "theme" anymore, he continues to tell me he's happy with his room the way that it is and until he tells me otherwise, I won't change a thing. We bought a baseball comforter for his bed and I purchased Home Interior pictures and plaques at various yard sales with a sports theme.

For his curtains, I decided to make a valance of "pennants". I purchased a few different primary colored pieces of material (the Walmart broadcloth at $1.87 a yard) and made 3 coordinating pennants for each window (2 windows). Then for the hanger, I used a dowel with a wooden ball at each end. I spray painted the dowel and the balls white and then put "stitching" on the balls with a red fine-tipped permanent marked to make it look like a baseball. He's got a plain cream colored berber rug over a bare wood floor and he's all set. His desk came from a yard sale as did his bookshelf and his dresser. Again, this isn't a matched set but in my opinion, it looks fine.

We are blessed to have a huge recreation room at the back of our house which we are redoing slowly. For my bay window I filled it with plants such as African violets and hanging baskets of English ivy and spider plants. I found some lace panels that the previous owner had put on her living room windows, cut them down to size, hemmed each one and made panels to fit the bay windows (there are 5 sections). They are hooked top and bottom by running a cafe curtain rod through them top and bottom and this provides a twofold benefit...privacy and filtered lights for my plants.

We painted everything white (since I'm a fanatic about light filled rooms), carpeted with sturdy industrial carpet which my husband and a friend laid, purchased cabinets on sale with a standard counter top to match some of the colors in the carpet and hung up coordinating pictures which I purchased at a yard sale.

My kitchen was just redone by my husband and me and a couple of friends. My husband base painted the walls and ceiling for me and let me have at it. I wanted to get the kitchen done and decorated before he and his friend put in new linoleum over the upcoming weekend. I sponge painted a country shade of blue (called Cadence Blue) over the antique white, blending it to make a soft look.

I painted the trim with the same shade of blue and my friends re-decorated my kitchen using existing things while I was busy elsewhere. On top of my cabinet, we put various tins that I've collected, a metal watering can spray painted blue, a biscuit basket made out of a coffee can, a wooden shoe and a few other things. On the walls, we put my collection of framed Cream of Wheat ads along with an old Grape Nuts ad which made the kitchen seem really homey. The linoleum went in easily the next day and I now have a gorgeous kitchen at a fraction of the cost had we purchased everything new.

As I grew up in a "designer" house which seemed to me to be sterile and uninviting, I want the opposite for my family...I want a home that they can kick their shoes off and feel comfortable, a home where my children can slide down the banister and run up and down the halls and be free. It's a wonderful feeling to be able to give them this and on a budget to boot!

Decorating: Coca-Cola Style

2008-01-23T09:11:00.001-08:00

My daughter has decided she wants a Coca-Cola themed bedroom so in looking for ideas for something that will last until she's a teenager, I brainstormed some really cute ideas. Luckily for me, her walls are already painted white but everything else will need to go as her room at the moment is a blue and white cottage-style room.

For starters, I plan on removing her set of shelves and either repainting them or starting over from scratch. For her existing shelves, I used two pieces of 1" x 8' pine and base painted them a gloss white. Then I used two pieces of clean sponge and sponge painted two coordinating shades of blue in a random pattern.

For the new look, I'll use two coordinating shades of red, probably a cherry red and a darker version of the same, using the same technique I used with the blues. This is simple to do and very cost effective, more so than purchasing pre-made shelves. I have also thought about splatter painting the shelves rather than sponging so I may use a test board to see which looks better.

I'm currently looking for a red and white comforter set with matching sheets and pillow cases. Depending on the type of pattern on the comforter I choose, I'll make matching valances from either a sheet or purchased gingham check or striped material.

I also did this for my husband's red, white and black bathroom and it turned out really cute. I used a bigger checked black and white material for the bottom for the valance and used a red and white mini check for a top.

I don't use a pattern for my valances, I simply hem the sides of the material after cutting it to the width of the window plus the width again (to allow for a gathered ruffle at the top). Folding the material in half length wise, right sides together, I sew a seam along the entire top width of the material making a large tube. Then I turn the material right side out, measure down an inch and sew a seam, then I measure down again another inch and sew another seam to make a pocket for the rod with an inch at the top that will ruffle when gathered.

The window sills are currently brown oak stained wood and I'm debating whether to paint these a cherry red, white or to simply leave them be.

For wall decorations, there are lots of Coca-Cola prints available at Hobby Lobby. These will probably be the biggest investment in the entire room. I plan on purchasing one or two of these and having them framed either in oak (to match the dresser and bed) or a red or white lacquer.

If I can gather some inexpensive frames, I can easily paint these myself using spray paint. Ebay also has a ton of Coca Cola items for sale and I'll be checking there for various knick-knacks to decorate her room.

For her hamper, we currently are using an oversize wicker basket. This will be either painted white and sponged with red or simply spray painted red. Spray paint works wonderfully on basket items I've found, giving them a fresh new look at very little cost and for children, large open baskets work better than a regular clothes hamper for keeping clothing clutter off the floor.

We currently have wood floors with a flowered area rug in the bedroom so another investment will be in a floor covering. If I can't find a suitable area rug, I may use a floor canvas and sponge/splatter paint it red and white. I've seen this done in magazines and it looks really neat although personally I've never used this technique. I could also paint the wood floor white but I am hesitant to do this as it may not be a wise decision for future uses of the room.

I think this room theme will be a lot of fun to do and won't cost a bundle either if I do most of the handiwork myself, side by side with my daughter.

Add Character to Your Decor with Cottage Style Decorating

2008-01-23T09:07:00.000-08:00

Casual, comfortable and very eclectic, this style is oh-so-relaxing. The backgrounds are whites and off-whites. Woods are painted- either whites, white-washed, or soft distressed colors. An occasional natural finish piece will shine in this surrounding. Upholstered pieces feature loose fitting, casual slipcovers (a great seasonal change). Or simply swathe them in sheets (make sure you wrap any cushions separately, just cut up a sheet and wrap them like a gift, use safety pins to hold on the underside of the cushion). Accessories create the attitude and add color. Pillows abound in florals and stripes. Nature comes indoors in greenery and casual floral arrangements. Outdoor furniture moves indoors with a new coat of paint or the distressed flaking remnants of old paint.

The look is casual but NOT CLUTTERED. Visual clutter is not relaxing. Be selective, add accents slowly and group them together leaving plenty of neutral areas for the eyes to rest. Remember, the cottage style look says "kick off your shoes and relax," it. s a very UN-put-together look, as if these things have been accumulated over a lifetime- indeed, they usually have been. Dig out your castoffs- old chairs, tables, glass or pottery pieces, just about anything you can put your hands on, and paint them! Add a pretty linen, scarf or lace piece simply draped over something or spilling from a vase. It really doesn't take deep pockets to affect a look, just a little creativity. Most important of all- enjoy yourself!

Decorating: Working with Wall Compounds

2008-01-23T09:02:00.000-08:00

Types of Wall Compounds

"Some people use the terms "mud", "joint compound" and "joint compound" interchangeably. There is joint compound, which comes ready-mixed or powder for mixing. And there is joint compound, which usually comes in a small tub the size of a large yogurt. The joint compound (ready-mix) is softer, more liquid content, and gray when wet; joint compound is a bit crumbly (like when you fold butter and flour?) and very white. I think you can get interesting results with each.?

I have wiped two-month-old joint compound from a wall when the previous dweller did a messy job of repairing nail holes. I don't know what the curing time for that is. So, be creative and experiment with these products, but consider sealing them in some manner to prevent losing your artwork. I'm not sure about the terra-cotta though. It is porous, so sealing on the outside doesn't have an effect on the clay pot itself if it is getting wet on the inside."

-Dar Presto

Seal That Drywall!

"Drywall compound and joint compound are not permanent until they are sealed or primed. (I have 6 walls in my house to prove it.) Mud and joint compound continue to react to water-the purpose of this is to be able to put several layers on until the finish is smooth-wet sanding in between. Once the final finish is smooth enough it must cure-for at least 72hrs.

Then it must be primed with a good primer. If it is not cured and primed properly, the paint will not adhere properly and will eventually peel away from the dry wall like wallpaper (4 walls in my kitchen to prove THAT.) My DH and I were in a rush to get our kitchen done for the twins First Communion party and we did not take the recent humid weather into account. We also skipped primer 'cause we bought a good brand of paint-BIG MISTAKE.

?The paint looked great for 3 years and then I noticed a bubble in a corner-like an idiot I picked at it and a sheet of paint about 4x4 came right off the wall-down to the bare mud!!!!? Boy have? did we learn our lesson.? (When we re-did our bath room-gutted it down to the studs-a contractor quoted us $15,000-we did it for $1,500.? We made sure that stuff was dry! If you use joint compound-same rules apply-let it Cure-Seal with a primer-then paint it."

~Andie

The Wired Decorator: Budgeting

2008-01-23T08:52:00.000-08:00

We all want a beautiful home, but for most of us, hiring a professional interior designer is not an option. In fact, even a "designer look" is too expensive, right? Wrong! You don't need to spend thousands of dollars for a designer look, nor do you have to shop in designer showrooms and expensive, trendy mall stores to get the look you love. "But I can' t afford new furniture," you say. Yes you can! "I can't decorate my home with the extra $50 I have to spend each month," you say. Yes you can! This series will help you achieve your wildest decorating fantasies on a tight budget. Trust me, I'm right there with you!

Let's begin with the basics. First, decide how much you can afford to spend each month on decorating your home. This assumes, of course, that you already have a monthly budget of some sort and are aware of how much money you earn and how much you spend (bills, etc.). Let's say, for example, that after all the bills are paid, you have about $100 left per month for your decorating budget.

My first piece of advise is to take half of that and put it into savings if you haven't already done as much. Why? Well, for a couple of reasons. First because it's always best to have a buffer.

How much of a buffer is necessary? That depends on you. We try to keep 2 months worth of salary plus $500 in our savings at all times. The $500 is what the deductible on our car insurance is. However, that doesn't always work. Bare minimum, we keep the $500 in there in case something happens to one of our cars. The second reason for saving money is obvious-- to buy stuff! When we wanted new living room furniture, we told ourselves we were not allowed to buy it until we had enough money saved to pay cash for it. That keeps us from getting further into debt.

Let's get back to that $100. After you've put half away, you have $50 left. Now you have several options. You could give yourself a weekly allowance, split it in half, or use all of it at once. It's entirely up to you, but let's explore each option. With a weekly allowance, you're looking at about $12.50/week. Not much, right? Well, it depends on how and where you use it. If you choose to split the money in half, you could have $25 and go shopping every other week. If you choose to use it all at once, you have the potential to purchase larger items, however, it's easy to go crazy and splurge with $50 in your pocket because suddenly that $45 votive candle holder from your favorite upscale mall store isn't so out of reach (even though it should be).

Whatever option you choose, my advice is to get that money IN CASH and put it away separate from the rest of your money. Why cash? It keeps you on your honor because once it's gone, it's gone. Also, it's okay to modify each moth as you go. If I know I'm going shopping somewhere special with a friend, I tend to save up for it, whereas I usually give myself a weekly allowance. Whatever works for you!

Now that you have the money, where do you spend it? What do you spend it on? How do you know a good deal when you see it? When is it okay to splurge? Stay tuned! The answers to these questions, and more, are on their way.

Decorating: Make Your Own Stencils

2008-01-23T08:40:00.000-08:00

Make your own stencils, with your computer? Yes, you can!

Here's how:

Find a font on the computer that you like (you can download them for free)
Type up the phrase you want in a word processing document with your choosen font.
Make the letters as big as you want them to appear on the wall, don't worry if only a few letters fit on one page
Print up the pages/document on transparency paper.
Cut out the letters with an exact-o knife.
Voila! Homemade stencils

Stencil Ideas

Here are a few links and ideas on sayings and quotes to stencil:

"Bloom where you're planted"
"Garden of Weedin'"
"You're nobunny till somebunny loves you"
"Leave room in your garden for the angels to dance"
"Never enough thyme" (saw that painted in a kitchen)
"Bless our nest"
"For everything there is a season"
"Love never gets raggedy"

Any bible verse would also be nice, 1 Corinthians 13 is a great chapter to pull verses from ("Love is patient and kind..."

Funny ones:

"So much time, so little to do! Scratch that! Reverse it!"
"My best ideas are the ones I have forgotten"
"Kitchen closed- this chick's quit" (great for chicken decor)

Decorating With Sponge Painting

2008-01-23T08:36:00.000-08:00

Have you tried Sponge Painting? I recently painted my kitchen using this technique and was amazed at how professional it looks. It is really easy to do and much less messy than the traditional way of rolling it on.

Let me say upfront that I do not like to paint. I am just not coordinated enough. I always make a big mess, end up with paint all over me, the floor, etc. This was really the easiest paint job I ever did and it was really simple. The best part was the clean-up!

But you know what? It's cheaper too than rolling it on because you are using less paint! I recommend getting a quart to start with,you can always go back for more. I had at least 3/4 of a gallon left over.

All you need is a pan to pour small amounts of paint into and a sponge. I was told that you can use just a regular household sponge, but I splurged on the sea sponge since this was my first try and it was not very expensive. You can buy the sea sponge in the paint department of Home Depot or Wal-Mart. I cut mine in half since I wanted to go with a smaller pattern.

First, wet your sponge and squeeze it out. You don't want to get a lot of paint on your sponge. It should not be full of paint, just dab it in the paint and then wipe off any excess on your pan. If you have to quit for awhile and then go back, wash your sponge out good and be sure to wet it again before you start.

Start by dividing your wall. I don't have a lot of wall space in my kitchen so this part was easy. But the idea is that you divide your wall into four quadrants. Then start in your first quadrant. Basically, you just "dab" it on with your sponge.

How much? It depends on how much depth you want of the new color. You should dab it in a criss cross or X pattern. Example, top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left and just fill in so that it looks the way you want. Try less paint at first pass, you can always add more if you think you need to fill in the holes.

My husband was kind of leery of this paint project. He tried to talk me into trying it in the bathroom first. (Less people would see it, if it looked terrible, I guess). I told him I was going to go for it. If it looked terrible, I could always go back and roll it on! You should have seen his face when he walked in the door. He couldn't believe how great it looked!

Now that I know how easy it is, I plan to do the bathroom next, but I am going to try using two coordinating colors.

Decorating: Wow 'Em With Walls!

2008-01-23T08:30:00.000-08:00

When decorating your child's room, don't overlook the largest surface in the room- the walls! They are empty canvases for your creativity. Some time and a few dollars can turn those blank walls into works of art.

Wall Art Ideas

Hang inexpensive wall art. Find posters from children's museums, video rental stores and bookstores and mount them on foam board. You can have this done by a frame shop, or purchase foam board and spray adhesive at a craft supply store and do it yourself.
Take pages from old children's books or calendars and place them in inexpensive frames.
Frame your child's artwork. She will be proud to know that you think her art is good enough for a permanent decoration. If your child is too young, use artwork that you and your spouse did as children.
Hang a colorful quilt on a wall. Attractive quilt clips are available through Pottery Barn Kids.

Transform a Room with Paint

Paint is also an extremely cost effective way to change the look of a room. A bright solid color of paint can go a long way in converting a blah white room into a cheery environment. When selecting paint types, semi-gloss is your best bet for easily wiping away little handprints. The following are techniques to get even more creative with paint:

Naturally, I think murals add a special touch to a child's room. There are paint-by-number mural kits for those artistically challenged parents. Painting a mural can be a weekend fun project for the family, since kids as young as six can help. Most of the murals are inexpensive as well- you can buy the kit, paints and brushes all for less than $50.
Try sponge painting on your walls. It's easy to paint a base color, then dampen a sponge, dip into the second color of paint and dab lightly on the walls. And hey, if you don??t like it, just paint over the top!
Use chalkboard paint on one wall. Tape a rectangular area that is 4' in length by 3' in height, with the bottom starting 2' from the baseboards. Fill in with green or black chalkboard paint from a craft store.
Magnetic paint is also available, although a more expensive option than most paints. Follow the instructions above for the chalkboard, substituting magnetic paint, and you'll have a fabulous place for displaying your child's artwork.

In addition to painting, wood accents can add a nice touch to walls. For example, wainscoting or plate rails are easy to install. Paint the wood white or match other trim in the room, then nail into place with carpenter's nails. Plate rails are also functional; they make a wonderful display area for pictures or to store children's books.

Whether you're doing a complete room makeover or sprucing up older decor, it's worth spending time and a little money to add some WOW! to your walls.

My New (Old) House Renovation on a tight budget

2008-01-23T08:23:00.000-08:00

I love to make my home my own very comfortable place of rest and escape, wherever it may be. My husband is a full-time student. We have tuition to pay along with our regular household expenses. I work full-time, but living near a major metropolitan area is expensive. Talk about a tight budget!

I have learned to get creative in order to be creative. We recently purchased a new 'older' home and I have had virtually no money to make improvements. Let me tell you how I have managed to renew the worn and outdated things in our "diamond in the rough" home.

Almost every room needed to be painted. Most major home centers (Lowes, Sears etc.) and hardware stores have mis-mixed paint (mixed to the wrong color) for either 1 or 2 dollars a gallon. This is good premium paint and can be found in many wonderful colors, neutral or bright. Most of the paint I purchased was some shade of ivory. Compare this to 12-20 dollars regular price and a lot of painting can equal a lot of saving. The mis-mixed paint shelf is a gold mine.

Borders and wallpaper? I checked my local dollar general and discount department stores. Borders for a dollar a roll and wallpaper rolls for between 2-3 were a great deal as well. I did my kitchen and bathroom for only 4 dollars!

Add stencils to your rooms as borders, to compliment wallpaper borders around doors or windows or to accent cabinet doors. Craft paint runs between 50 cents and a dollar per bottle and goes a long way. Make your own stencils with plastic or cardboard. Draw on your design and cut out with an exacto knife (be careful). Paint vines and flowers free hand (use a magazine as a guide)! This will enhance a plain window frame any day of the week!

I brightened up our home?s dark and worn (in some cases damaged) hollow-core doors by giving them a fresh coat of white paint. A low-end brand will do. I paid $10.00 for two gallons, which went a long way! (much cheaper than replacing the doors) Fix up any damaged spots first with a little spackle or wood putty (around $1.50 for a 16-oz container) Don?t forget to paint the trim and chair-rails too. Save your carpet by masking off the edge with masking tape at around 50 cents a roll.

Old out-dated cabinets got a fresh coat of white paint as well. You could use any color you like. Adding some new but basic hardware at around $1.00 each handle/pull was a big improvement (get these at your local home center or hardware store as well).

Remove and repaint rough or worn vent covers and light-switch covers. Spray or brush paint. You could cover the switchovers with extra wallpaper.

Paint counter-tops with BIN or KILZ Primer, a coat of latex paint and topcoat with Polyurethane (5 coats, drying in-between). They will look great. Do the same with tile and other glossy surfaces.

I even painted an old worn light fixture white (with a glossy Rustoleum paint). Turn your electricity off first! The old glass globes looked great in the updated fixtures.

FREEBIES!

I have filled my home with found objects, like an antique dresser left from an auction (once the auction is over the left-over items are cheap or free! This one turned out to be solid oak under a layer of paint) or the beautiful old trunk I found by the dumpster at my old apartment. It was a real antique with square head nails and copper straps. I took a lesson in found objects a long time ago from my grandpa-who inspired me to look for treasure in the trash (think garage sales, apartment complexes, or your neighborhood on trash day). People leave some interesting things behind when they are moving on and cleaning out! I have been surprised by some amazing finds over the years including an antique lamp, a sewing machine and a string of real pearls!

Take a worn out bookshelf or small table. Paint them white and add stencils to either. Add some decorative wooden gingerbread ( $1-$2 each at a home center)and paint to match for a country or antique look. Coordinate with the stencils on your walls etc.

I have even made little primitive wall decorations using found wood, craft paint and a little inspiration from magazines and friends.

Need new curtains and/or throw pillows? Check out the ?dollar table? at your local fabric store. Mine is Walmart. Cover old pillows or stuff with almost anything (old sox, pantyhose or rags).

For the garden? Why not organize a perennial plant exchange. I had too many daylilies and my friend had too many hostas. Get something new with something you already have rather than paying cash for it. (This kind of exchange can be applied to anything from clothes to nick-knacks...the idea? NEW to you is fun!)

Any project for me starts with an assessment, a list of things I need or want to finish it, and a breakdown of the maximum dollar amount I will pay for each item. Write down ideas for accent pieces you would like to have (things you could make or find). Start looking around for the pieces to your renovation puzzle and the project will come together! Imagine drastically changing a room for between 10 and 15 dollars. YOU CAN DO IT!

Living Single Decor

2008-01-23T07:32:00.000-08:00

A twosome may feel safe and familiar, but going single may be refreshing and freeing. What is the topic at hand? Kitchen sinks!

Despite the omnipresent dishwasher, the double bowl sink is still the most popular. Consider the option of a single bowl sink. At one time, large families dirtied stacks of dishes to be washed in one bowl and rinsed in another. Today, many families heat and serve meals, and stack dinnerware into a dishwasher.

A single bowl sink can fulfill the need to wash vegetables and hands, house a garbage disposal, and fill drinking glasses and icecube trays. The smaller cabinet is still available with a tilt- out sink front, and allows room for trash or detergents below. A single bowl sink coupled with a gooseneck faucet allows rinsing of large saucepots. It takes less room and can free up much needed cabinet and countertop space for storage and food preparation.

Whether remodeling or building new, consider the possibility of a single bowl sink versus the double bowl. The single life may be just what you're looking for!